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Diesel egt's?

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backwoodsblazerk5

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Whats a good level egt for a 6.7 cummins? It has no cat and 4 inch straight pipe. I hit 1480 this morning on a hard run in 4th gear. I have an edge programmer as well. Also and anything else I can do to really lower this number on the cheaper side? Just ordered a bat mo wheel turbine wheel hoping it would help
 
backwoodsblazerk5 said:
Whats a good level egt for a 6.7 cummins? It has no cat and 4 inch straight pipe. I hit 1480 this morning on a hard run in 4th gear. I have an edge programmer as well. Also and anything else I can do to really lower this number on the cheaper side? Just ordered a bat mo wheel turbine wheel hoping it would help
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I saw over 1500 post turbo during regens when mine was stock. I try to keep it under 1300 towing, but I've made bursts into the 1400 range racing a few times. Seems like the DPF equipped trucks are designed to handle more heat for short periods. I wouldnt worry about 1400 on occasion, I just wouldnt make it a habit.

Does the edge actually turn the DPF/EGR off in the computer, or does it just clear codes?
 
Shouldnt an EGT gauge always be before the turbo? Im new to diesels but everything Ive read about the diesel swap I want to do says that.
 
Stomis said:
Shouldnt an EGT gauge always be before the turbo? Im new to diesels but everything Ive read about the diesel swap I want to do says that.
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Yes. I said post turbo because the factory EGT sensors are post turbo. I had a programmer that could read the factory sensors.
 
Hopefully your batmo wheel holds up, I know someone who went through a few before he just bought a new turbo
 
Yes the EGT gauge should be pre-turbo, I know guys that are post turbo and they try to compensate knowing it's giving them a cooler reading but if you're going to do it just do it right and go pre-turbo.

As far as numbers go on my dodge I have an Isspro gauge with the pyro reading centered in the exhaust manifold and I really don't let it get above 1200* for sustained pulls. I've flickered a little above that for short (under a few seconds) bursts but not sustained.
When I'm towing up grades I just throttle down until I hit 1200* and feather it up and down slightly to keep it there, I really don't give a crap about any other gauge since it's a stick and the cooling system rocks on the 2nd gen dodges.

As a little disclaimer I'm no diesel expert, just telling you what I do and have had great luck with.
 
Avery4jc said:
Yes the EGT gauge should be pre-turbo, I know guys that are post turbo and they try to compensate knowing it's giving them a cooler reading but if you're going to do it just do it right and go pre-turbo.

As far as numbers go on my dodge I have an Isspro gauge with the pyro reading centered in the exhaust manifold and I really don't let it get above 1200* for sustained pulls. I've flickered a little above that for short (under a few seconds) bursts but not sustained.
When I'm towing up grades I just throttle down until I hit 1200* and feather it up and down slightly to keep it there, I really don't give a crap about any other gauge since it's a stick and the cooling system rocks on the 2nd gen dodges.

As a little disclaimer I'm no diesel expert, just telling you what I do and have had great luck with.
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Nothing wrong with playing it safe. Got to say I'm jealous, I'd love to have a 12v with a manual.
 
Cheapest way to drop your EGTs? Let off the throttle when you see it getting too hot ;)

Other methods include dropping to a lower level on your programmer, bigger exhaust, bigger intake, bigger intercooler, water injection, propane injection and a bigger turbo. All assuming you drive it like stock with the aftermarket goodies
 
I always try and stay under 1200. If I hit 1200 while pulling up a grade I don't do it for long. That's with intake, exhaust, and programmer on the middle setting. Still looking at what to buy for my newer truck.. The DPF sucks! And the ETG's seem to run hotter from what I have seen.
 
Not totally familiar with Dodge stuff but in general pre turbo EGT's should stay well below 1400 for sustained pulls.

I do sustained pulls at 1250, I back out at 1300. When I'm playing with higher power levels I can see 1600+. I have been there a few times for less than three to five seconds eash time. Truck seems to be surviving well, I lifted the heads a few years ago so I put new head gaskets on and everything looked great in the cylinders and heads.

Lowering EGT is simple but can get expensive. Air in air out. Big intake, big exhaust, good intercooler, good tuning, then you have turbo upgrades.

I tow with my 05' D max and quit adding power a few years ago. For the loads I pull with my truck a simple 85 horse predator tune, boost controler, intake, exhaust and gauges have me where I want to be. I put 2500lbs in the bed and tow the race car with no problems.

I would look at air in air out upgrades, I don't see the turbo work as good until you deal with the intake and exhaust.
 
Delete the DPF and EGR. EFIlive is where you want to be. You gain MPG and run far cooler more reliably.
 
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