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diesel engines

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69K5

1/2 ton status
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What diesel engine has chevrolet ever used beside a 6.2? Are there any others brands or makes that can be put into a blazer feasibly? Those that have diesels are you happy with them? also transmission options i have th350 Fubared and a 465. i play in the mud and thats it.

I am still trying to find an alternative fuel for the blazer. LPG and CNG just arent cheap enough and accesible enough anywhere close to here. I came across biodiesel and straight vegtable oil. I ws looking into these. I am looking for older diesels b/c in my researching i have found where they say indirect injection is better for the svo than direct port but some systems claim to be compatible.

thanks

Nathan the tree hugger /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
Your other most realistic option to the 6.2L is the 6.5. It is the engine used in Hummers or in 93 up gm pickups. The hummer 6.5 is NA while the others are turbocharged. They are a bit more money though. If you want to get crazy and make us all ooh and aah try putting in a Duramax. I think you will be one of the first to go in that direction that I have heard of.

As far as transmission if mud is your thing I would go with an auto just to be on the safe side. Diesels rev out a lot lower than a gas so you'd really have to keep a close eye with the 465. If your going to use that th350 you have you will have to have it rebuilt for the diesel. That or switch to a th400. They can handle the torque much better.

Hope that helps ya some /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
this will be on a budget so i dont think the duramax is gonna happen. how do you go about building up a diesel? same as gas bore it, new pistons, crank ect ect? i dont want a computer and definatley mechanical fuel injection.so it will stay simple. how much am i looking at for a used one or good core. was the 6.5 used in anything besides hummers. they arent exactly easy to find around here

thanks for the help

nathan
 
Cummins 4BT out of a Chevy P30 step van will work. You can get them as cheap as a good used 6.2 and they are a better engine IMHO, already turboed, built stronger etc.
 
If your doing it on a budget then diesel period may not be what you are looking for.
Low compression 6.5 pistons are in the neighborhood of $900,
Zero gap rings-$250
Set of high flow injectors-$500
Custom intercooler /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gifWhat ever you can scroung up.
IDI is generally quiter, DI is more efficient.

If all you do is play in the mud a 6.5TD might not give the performance your looking for. Weight of a BBC with only a 3600 RPM redline. In stock form it flattens out after 3,000. It will give much better mileage than the BBC though.
 
More or less, the main caps were pulled to look at the bearings. Everything is still in the block.
John
 
blue blazer

thanks for the info

chevyracing

it will have to hold off for a while im still not sure about doing it yet and the baby is due this week. but i will keep you in mind if you still have it when i make up my mind for sure.

dieseldan

thanks for the info. id dint know parts would run soo much. definatley something to consider there and the 3600 redline. gonna need revs for the mud. hmm???

thanks again

nathan
 
dieseldan

after reading the post again.i had another question. do all diesels haver such a low redline or just the 6.5?i can keep the revs low but not 3500. how about a revlimiter? i dont do mud races but your not stuck till you quit moving so sometimes you need the revs.

thanks again

nathan
 
3600 is screaming for a diesel. The Cummins redline at 2400 or less /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif

It's not all bad though, the diesel also makes so much more low end torque you can use a taller gear for wheelspeed without bogging it.

I've found the rev governor on my 6.2 once, and it sounded quite happy at 3600 rpm to tell the truth.../forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif

Mud drags with a 6.2...not the best choice. Occasional mud it'd be just fine though.

Rene
 
The pumps have a built in govenor, hold it to the floor in neutral will only produce 3600. My rotary pump equipped cummins has a 2500rpm limit, 3000 and higher gov springs are available. The inline pumps run 3,000plus rpm.
 
[ QUOTE ]
It's not all bad though, the diesel also makes so much more low end torque you can use a taller gear for wheelspeed without bogging it.

Mud drags with a 6.2...not the best choice. Occasional mud it'd be just fine though.

Rene

[/ QUOTE ]

Do you mean like 4.56's for taller gears??

This is gonna be my daily driver hopefully and for playing in the mud on weekends. /If the diesel will spin the tires fast enought to clear tread w/o redlining then it will work fine. I also would like to be able to hit 70 on the interstate. I plan on 36 38's.

diesel dan

why does you 93 have 3.42's??????

and lastly do cummins require atls transmissions? or can i use the 350? i know anything with atlas on it is gonna cost.


one morer what kind of mileage are yall getting with 6 - 8" of lift


thanks for all the help

Nathan
 
Taller as in numerically lower.

For example when I had the 350 I would use low range and second gear in deeper mud and let the motor spin to 5500 which worked OK. With the 6.2 I'd use third gear...same wheel speed at a much lower engine rpm. If I tried that with the 350 it'd bog and want to die, but the 6.2 pulls it off just fine.

I still wouldn't recomend the diesel for mud drags though/forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

I run 4.56's, 39.5's and an SM465 4 speed. It'll maintain 70 easily (although the R's are a bit high for my liking) and it does really well off road.

Rene
 
[ QUOTE ]
Taller as in numerically lower.

For example when I had the 350 I would use low range and second gear in deeper mud and let the motor spin to 5500 which worked OK. With the 6.2 I'd use third gear...same wheel speed at a much lower engine rpm. If I tried that with the 350 it'd bog and want to die, but the 6.2 pulls it off just fine.

I still wouldn't recomend the diesel for mud drags though;)

I run 4.56's, 39.5's and an SM465 4 speed. It'll maintain 70 easily (although the R's are a bit high for my liking) and it does really well off road.

Rene

[/ QUOTE ]

ok now i understand. I have an sm465 and th350 so i havent decided I will probably go with the 350 as previously suggested. mainly b/c the college here has one and its slow and loud but will pull down a hose.

Dont worry it wont be in any muddrags that just tears things up.

can you put hot starts on a truck diesel and just plug em in every night? just a thought for the svo.

thnaks again

nathan
 
I actually prefer the 4 speed with the diesel...puts more of the engine's power to the ground.

Most all 6.2's i've seen here have block heaters for cold weather starts, and if you find one that doesn't they're easy to install and not expensive at all. I think I paid $28 cdn for a 600 watt block heater.

The SM 465 also makes thing much less complicated. I ditched the AC controls inside the truck for regular heater controls which are all cable and do not need or have the vacuum pump to deal with. Nice and clean and super simple now. Minimal wires and no vacuum stuff /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

I'm a slush box hater, so take my advice with that in mind /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Once you've crawled with the 6.2 and a 465 you'll never go back...

Rene
 
The Cummins 4BTs have a Chevy bolt pattern on the bellhousing, and most came with 2wd SM465s or TH400s, so all one has to do is find one with the trans setup they want and mate their 4wd trans and tcase to it.
 
[ QUOTE ]
/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Once you've crawled with the 6.2 and a 465 you'll never go back...

Rene

[/ QUOTE ]

i dont have an ac now but its 104 f today so i am reconsidering it althought the top is never own. i cook at red lights. Im just not sure if the rocks in my driveway are big enough to crawl over. /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

blueblazer6.2

Thanks for the info. at least that gives me more options on motors now.

thanks again

nathan
 
I was doin some more research over at greasel.com and found this info. do yall agree with this?

Chevy 6.2L N/A
Special parts/tools needed - None.

Notes - The Chevy 6.2L has a rotary Stanadyne injection pump located directly in the valley of it's V8 design. This is a perfect place to not only absorb engine heat, but to hold it after the engine has been shut down, thus it's great for running veggie. On a warm summer day, you can stay shut down on straight veggie for as long as 4 hours and still expect an easy startup. This engine also features a external, mechanical lift pump, located on the lower, left (as your standing in front of the vehicle, facing the engine) side, making this conversion a perfect real world example of our external lift pump diagram.

Diagram needed - External Lift Pump.

Chevy 6.5L TD
Special parts/tools needed - An aftermarket, electric, fuel pump.

Notes - The Chevy 6.5L TD, while a good, efficient engine in it's own rights, sports a very weak electric lift pump. It's mounted under the driver's side cab, on the frame rail. This pump is designed to just give the fuel an extra little push and relies heavily on gravity feed from the tank (thus it's mounted, and has to stay mounted, below the level of the fuel tank's bottom), and is too weak to properly pump veggie. We recommend leaving it as the primary diesel fuel pump, and installing a good after market fuel pump for the veggie side (the Holley Blue pump is a good one, and can be had fairly cheaply off of Ebay. Bob Kunz, of St. Louis, MO (314 845-2566), refurbishes Holley Blues and sells them for around $40 plus shipping (it's a great deal, and he takes credit cards over the phone). Napa also offers an electronic fuel pump that works well), and wiring it up to the fuel solenoid switch. Pics coming soon...

Engine pics of a converted '94 Chevy 3/4 ton, 4X4, 6.5L TD-
The mounted brass return valve...
Coolant entry point #1...
Coolant entry point #2...
Basic hardware mounting points...
The Holley Blue electric fuel pump, mounted...
Overall, completed conversion...
Another overall shot...

Diagram needed - External Lift Pump.

Dodge Cummins '89 -'93
Special parts/tools needed - A small pipe cutter.

Notes - All of the Dodge Cummins feature a Bosch, in-line, rotary injection pump, delivering fuel to the straight six design, and an external lift pump. The narrow design of the engine allows a lot of room under the hood, and plenty of options for peripheral mountings. Older Cummins offer no real surprises, other than the fact that most of the fuel lines are metal, and in order for a proper SVO conversion (read A word about external lift pumps), you need a pipe cutter and an understanding of the banjo nuts that allow the metal fuel lines to connect to the injection pump, lift pump, and diesel fuel filter.
The banjo nut is a metal ring, with a hollowed inner diameter, found at each end of all the metal fuel lines. A fuel bolt fits through the center of the banjo nut, with copper washers to seal the connection on each side. Remove the metal fuel lines complete from the engine bay, and use the pipe cutter to cut off the banjo nuts, leaving about an inch of fuel line connected to them. You can run your clear fuel lines over the remaining 1" of metal fuel line up to the banjo nut and secure it with a hose clamp, and now you're ready to re-plumb your system as described in A word about external lift pumps.

Diagram needed - External Lift Pump.





the 6.5 is already turbod. so how much difference does that make compared to no turbo?

thanks again

nathan

sorry about all the questions im just taking a crash course in diesels.
 
well i've got the 6.5 on mine and its pretty awesome, if u wanna go fast dont buy diesel, but they go everywhere, dont ever stall and can run all day and not get hot, and they are better for the air (or so im told?) i have the 700r4 tranny, does good since overdrive.. but thats my opinions...
 
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