What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Diesel gods please help

dallassnowman

dallassnowman

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 14, 2003
Posts
339
Reaction score
0
Location
Forney, Texas
Got an 82 6.2 diesel blazer. Just replaced the fuel pump(truck died and was hard to start) now cant get it started.
Tried hand pump, clear tube, pink wire. Could my injector pump be bad? When clear tube is on, I turn the key to on and see fuel moving but with air in tube. What am I doing wrong? Or whats next? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
 
Sounds like you have air in the injection system. Try and get it to run off of WD-40, its not volatile enough to cause problems like ether will.
 
dunno if this will work or not try holding the throttle down while yer cranking on it...dont crank it for more then like 30 seconds. it should start to kinda gurgle to life a lil...at least thats how I got mine to fire up.
 
Ill try wd-40, last year my uncle helped me that way.
I need to get him over to try again, bad thing is my batteries keep getting drained after about 6 times.
So eveyone is saying its just air in the system??
I hope so!!!
 
Ok, "accelerator".

If air bubles are coming out, it wont start. Try to get all the air out of the lines running to the IP before starting with the WD. It will require less time running on WD to clear the air out of the system. Make sure you follow the starting procedure, it will start a lot easier. Give her 1/2 throttle above 40*, full throttle below.
 
there is an IP that controls the fuel released through the injectors.
taken from websters.com
[ QUOTE ]
throt·tle
1) A valve that regulates the flow of a fluid, such as the valve in an internal-combustion engine that controls the amount of vaporized fuel entering the cylinders.
2) A lever or pedal controlling such a valve.

tr.v. throt·tled, throt·tling, throt·tles

To regulate the flow of (fuel) in an engine.
To regulate the speed of (an engine) with a throttle.
To suppress: tried to throttle the press.
To strangle; choke.


[/ QUOTE ]

so by definition i believe a diesel does indeed, have a THROTTLE, if you assume the injector pump is indeed a valve that controls the flow of fluid. if you dont open the IP then no fuel goes to the injectors.... its really simple
 
[ QUOTE ]
There is no throttle on a Diesel engine.

[/ QUOTE ]
now i think you meant to say " a diesel has no carburator"

now if someone posted "check and see if the fuel float is stuck" then you could have smartly come back and said
[ QUOTE ]
" a diesel has no carburator"

[/ QUOTE ]
 
The term is often used when referring to Diesels. Most military vehicles will show a, "throttle" as well. I've always thought this term to be incorrect if referring to a Diesel as they have no plate controlling the incoming air.

I stand corrected.

Throttle or not, feathering the pedal to try to get a diesel engine with lines full of air to start isn't going to do any good.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Got an 82 6.2 diesel blazer. Just replaced the fuel pump(truck died and was hard to start) now cant get it started.
Tried hand pump, clear tube, pink wire. Could my injector pump be bad? When clear tube is on, I turn the key to on and see fuel moving but with air in tube. What am I doing wrong? Or whats next? /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

EDITED
OK,changing the fuel pump and air in the lines leads me to believe that you have a faulty connection somewhere....

taken from:
Diesel Page
[ QUOTE ]
Make sure the batteries are charged up because, it could take a few minutes to get the fuel system reprimed enough to start the engine. Be careful not to crank on the engine long enough to burn up the starter, try to crank the engine for a few minutes and then let the starter cool off. You might want to leave the return hose off and watch for return fuel. Once you have return fuel the vehicle should start. The engine may run rough or even die a few times until all the air is bled out. The injection pump is self bleeding and there is no way to speed up the process so give it time and it will bleed the air out.

[/ QUOTE ]
 
I found with my 6.2, that if you start it with WD and there is air in the injector lines, the air will naturally be forced out as you run it on WD-40. I was able to bleed all the lines much faster that way, the only thing that gets tricky is keeping it running with a spray can of WD-40. I used the "crack and crank" method for 3 injectors, said to hell with it and got the WD out.
 
how did you originally determine the fuel pump vs the IP was bad??
 
yes, i was just wondering if the injector pump isnt what actually went out.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Throttle or not, feathering the pedal to try to get a diesel engine with lines full of air to start isn't going to do any good.

[/ QUOTE ]

Not true...I got mine to start a few times doing it this way. I'd have to hold the peddal down to the floor, and it would kinda choke and hesitate then eventually start up and rev pretty high, but after that it ran fine. I think I have a bad line or something cuz mine will do that if I park it with the front end facing up, for any length of time. /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
When I took off the line that goes to the secondary filter no fuel came when I cranked it, and the filter was not full.
But part of my question is also how Do I know if the injector pump isn't bad?
 
The trouble your having is why I put a cheap electric fuel pump near the tank--not only do I leave it on while driving(seems to run better )but if I run out of fuel I can open the bleeder on the big filter on the firewall and let the electric pump fill the filter and lines,it also seems to reduce the amount of cranking time needed to bleed the system.Once you are getting fuel to the injectors it should start right up(the glowplugs might need to be activated even if its warm out)--if it wont fire up you could try the wd-40 as suggested,but DO NOT activate the glowplugs if using any type of wd-40 or other starting fluid--in fact,I would save the ether for your lawnmower--it kills 6.2's.
If you cant see fuel at the injectors after much cranking its time to start looking for an air leak in the fuel line from tank to pump,my K20 had several,the steel lines had just enough rusty pinholes to let air in,but not drip diesel out,cracked rubber hoses too--I had to get the truck running when I first got it by putting the lift pump fuel line and the return line in a bleach bottle full of fuel--it finally started and ran,then I found the air leaks.Have you changed the fuel filters?(you may have 2,one big one on the firewall,some have a secondary filter hidden by the air cleaner near the back of the motor,in front of the vacuum pump.Dont do what I did and forget to fill them with clean fuel first--I had one hell of a time on a customers truck,cranked it so long it fried the starter, /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gifand we cracked lines,pulled the pink wire,nothing worked until we got the new starter in,I think the increase in cranking speed is what finally got it to bleed and fire up.Fully charged batteries are a must in this situation--cranking it slowly with weak batteries wont work,and will fry the starter due to the lower voltage.Ask me how I know this! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gifAlso check and make sure you are getting power to the fuel shutoff soleniod on the injector pump when the key is on you should hear it click if you pull the wire off and on.Good luck and I hope you get it started--diesels can be a pain when they run out of fuel. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
Thanks for the response to all, which one is the fuel shutoff soelnoid?(color)or(location)?
Does anyone think my batteries are fried they dont crank very long before getting very weak and I just slow 2amp charged each one!!?? /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I'm not positive but I think its the pink wire--my truck has only 2 wires at the injector pump,the pink one,and a green wire that splits into 2 green wires,for the cold idle advance,and the other goes to the fast idle solenoid.If I'm wrong someone else will correct me I'm sure.
I thought my batteries were weak,but after I got the truck going,I'm still running the same ones--they spin the motor over pretty fast--I did have to put a new starter drive in my truck,the starter looked like a freshly rebuilt delco remy,but I think they used the original drive,it was eating my flexplate teeth.The 6.2 needs to spin quickly to start good,and especially to bleed air out of the system.I'm glad mine starts on the third or fourth turn now,after putting 7 new glowplugs(#2 still wont come out!)a manual glowplug switch,new rubberand steel lines and the electric pump,and less than a gallon of water in the fuel tank! /forums/images/graemlins/angryfire.gif(got a lot of water in it somehow--I'm thinking sabotage by vandals that were looking to siphon gas--suprise!its a diesel! /forums/images/graemlins/doah.gif--time for a locking gas cap and a surveilance camera!).Your injector pump should be ok--they usually dont just die suddenly for no reason,usually they fail gradually over time. /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
It sounds like a bad lift pump if you're cranking and the filters aren't filling and no fuel is coming out. Often the diaphram in the lift pump goes bad allowing fuel to run back to the tank.

Secondly, engine cranking speed is critical for a diesel. Without enough cranking speed the intake charge won't get compressed fast enough to get really hot and promote ignition. When I replaced my starter I was shocked at how much easier my truck started.

1) replace lift pump
2) check for and fix air leaks
3) fully charged batteries
4) starter in good shape

Lastly, when you're trying to bleed the air from the lines make sure the pink wire is disconnected, and remove all the glow plugs from the motor. That will allow it to spin over quickly and easily and is a ton easier on the starter. Start cracking fuel lines until you have dripping fuel from each line. Tighten them as they begin to drip.

If you still have the model 80 box filter on the firewall you may have an air leak. They commonly have a problem with a fitting cracking or something and bleed air into the lines ahead of the IP.

Rene
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom