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Diesel guys help me out... dumb 18y/old

rwright07

rwright07

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was low on fuel and then i flexed my rig out and the fuel sloshed to the side and it starved the engine... nice work me.... went out and got 5gal diesel and put it in... wont start still after many attempts... ive been pumping the gas tons and then cranking it for 20sec or so then letting it sit for 3-4 min per advice of a mechanic friend

wtf cant i get it to start???

HELP ME PLEASE

rick
 
I'm no expert on diesel but IIRC you have to bleed the air out if you run it dry or starve it of fuel.
 
i dont remember exactly how... but its not that hard. try a search real quick and that should tell you. or there may be a sticky in teh diesel forum about this
 
It's probably got a manual prime somewhere on it somewhere, pump it til you thing your fingers going to fall off, if it's got air in the line, you feel it pressure up when you get the air out. That's the way we used ot get our Mack straight truck going when somebody ran it low.
 
yup.....

First off,dont bother pumping the gas pedal--your doing NOTHING,it only moves a shaft inside the injector pump!--its not like a gas motor,that the carb's accelerator pump will shoot more gas in if you pump the pedal!..

You'll have to bleed out all the air that was sucked into the injector pump when the fuel sloshed away from the pick up tube in the fuel tank, before it will even attempt to start again..this can be done a few different ways..

You could just crank it over as suggested,allowing ample time for the starter to cool off...the injector pump is designed to self bleed if cranked long enough--only trouble is usually the batteries die, or the starter croaks first!...

You can loosen the injector pump lines at the injectors, and crank it over ,after unplugging the big pink wire at the injector pump--after fuel appears at the loosened lines,tighten them,re-connect the big pink wire,and try to start it..or...

Some will say to use starting fluid--I'd do that as an absolute last resort--you may be able to use WD-40 instead,its much safer and less likely to hurt the engine--take the air filter cover off,and get the engine spinning over full tilt, BEFORE spraying the WD-40 down the intake opening..if your glow plugs are wired factory,it would be best to disable them first,by pulling the 2 prong connector off the top of the glow plug relay on the drivers side inner fender..this will prevent the glow plugs from heating up,and possibly causing an explosion and or engine damage..

I'd bring some fully charged batteries with you when you go to attempt to rescue it--you'll probably need them !..good luck,I fought with my airbound K20 when I first bought it for 3 days before she finally fired up!..been starting fine since though...

I too often let my tank run too close to empty--but I put an electric fuel pump inline near the fuel tank,so now if I run out and get airbound,I can just add more diesel,open the top petcock on my fuel filter,and the electric pump fills the filter up,minimizing the amount of cranking to get it fired up again..usually starts right up..:crazy:
 
to air bleed I pull all the glow plugs out...it's a ton easier on the starter when it's not fighting the 21.5:1 compression. Unhook the pink wire at the IP and crank the motor over until you have fuel at the filters. I usually disconnect the fuel line ahead of the injection pump and watch for fuel to pump into a small catch container. Re-install that fuel line.

Then, I loosen all 8 injector lines at the injectors, hook up the pink wire again and crank in 20 second bursts while a helper watches for fuel dripping from the lines. As each line begins to drip I tighten it up until they are all done. After all 8 have been snugged up again you can re-install the glow plugs...then start it up.

Rene
 
I'd just use some starting fluid. Just make sure you cycle the glow plugs BEFORE you spray it. Get the engine spinning 2K or so and it will pick up the fuel quick. People are going to quote my post and point fingers.... people have been using starting fluid on diesels since the beginning of time. You just have to watch out for your glow plugs.
 
well at least i dont have to go rescue the thing... i did it on a rockwall in my driveway:doah:

well allright il have to do it tomarrow AM after presents

awesome

btw where is the fuel filter? ive done some searchin on the site but keep finding different info. :confused:

luckily for me i JUST bought new batteries and the nice guy let me keep my good old one so i have 3 diesel batteries plus one out of our boat

where would the manuel prime be onthe system

also thanks for telling me about pumping the accelerator cuz i was doing a WHOLE lot of that

i will post up again later tomarrow

rick wright
 
rjfguitar said:
I'd just use some starting fluid. Just make sure you cycle the glow plugs BEFORE you spray it. Get the engine spinning 2K or so and it will pick up the fuel quick. People are going to quote my post and point fingers.... people have been using starting fluid on diesels since the beginning of time. You just have to watch out for your glow plugs.
Click to expand...

All time worst advice ever...thanks for coming out bobby. :rolleyes:

You were prolly the kid urging his 4 year old friends to stick the fork in the electrical socket when you were a kid too huh?

Rene
 
If you wanna use something use WD-40. Don't use starting fluid. So now there are 3 guys pointing fingers. What Mr. rjfguitar points out is like telling you to play Russian Roulette because 5 guys out of 6 win:rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:

If your fuel filter is a rectangular box on the firewall on the top left side there is a black knob on top of the filter. See how nicely a quarter fits in the slot? Open it and fuel should come out. If it doesn't leave it open and crank about 10 seconds or less. You should be able to see fuel coming out. If you don't look at the filter to make sure. You''ll know when it's pumped:wink1:

If you have to repeat more than 3 or 4 times check your starter because they overheat quickly. If it's hot be sure to let it cool to the touch before you try again. If it's gotten hot it may take 20 to 30 minutes to cool off:doah:

When you see or see the results of fuel pumping close the valve and crank again for a few seconds then open the valve to make sure you have all the air out.

Re-attach the pink wire somebody else remembered to mention:o and start it up. It's a single pink wire coming out of the top of the Injector Pump and towards the front of the engine.

If your fuel filter happens to be a round can, about the size of a soup can, you have to open it up and fill it with old, dirty, rancid fuel (why do they always mention "Fresh" fuel? If you are that stupid then my suggestion is to pee in the cup and add lemonaide untill full:mad:).

Once you've got the darn thing started figure if you need to leave it running for awhile to charge up the batteries. Nothing like expending a lot of time & energy to find out you've solved one problem but created another by running your batteries dead:laugh:
 
Ha:haha: I love it...:wink1:

Been using starting fluid ever since I knew what an engine was, as has my dad before me and every mechanic I know. I own, maintain, and work on probably on average of 20 times as many diesel engines as the average guy. I've sprayed every engine I own 10 times over with starting fluid at one time or another from cold weather to out of fuel.

I even have three combines and two tractors that have FACTORY starting fluid ports where you connect a can and have a button inside the cab to spray it when needed.:p:

Starting fluid will be fine, just cycle those plugs before you spray it and don't load it up, as that is usually what people do and vapor lock it up. Spray just enough to get it to fire and gently spray keeping a decent idle until it picks up fuel, it only takes a few seconds.:waytogo:
 
How many 6.2's do you own Bobby?

Secondly, (and most important) is you're offering advice to someone who admittedly knows very little about diesels that could very well kill his engine following your advice.

6.2's and 6.5's using the factory GP controller do not cycle once and stop...there are several cycles of "after glow" and each has the potential to light off the starting fluid at the wrong time.

Starting fluid is a poor choice in this case.

Rene
 
Using starting fluid on a farm tractor with manual glow plugs is one thing... the 6.2/6.5L engines are a completely different animal. I have a couple parts motors that people used starting fluid on...
 
instant death...

Yeah,I've always been told to use starting fliud only in life or death emergencies on my 6.2..(and many other diesels with glow plugs!)...I had been taught to use it only if you have disabled the glow plugs,and to wait several minutes before attempting to start it, so they will be cooled off,and not cause the starting fluid to explode or cause a kickback ,and engine damage.. I'd use WD-40 if possible,its less explosive,and has some lubricating qualities..ether is like solvent,washes oil off!..

I once started a lady's diesel VW Rabbit one cold night, with Alberto VO5 hair spray,when it refused to fire up when she went to leave a bar's parking lot..:D --it was about 0 degrees out..worked as good as or better than starting fluid or WD-40..all I could find that was flammable!--good thing she carried it in her purse!..(she later admitted she mostly carried it as a substituite for pepper spray!)..:eek1:

I know this sounds like BS to all those who grew up using ether on farm equipment and BIG rigs..but the 6.2 and my VW diesel,and many Mercedes cars will suffer damage should you use starting fliud ,and not disable the glow plugs..the engine will start on ether just fine with no glow plug heat,the compression alone will ignite the ether..I've learned to get the motor spinning over good BEFORE spraying any starting fluid too,it reduces the chance of a kickback or backfire,and is much easier on things like pistons and rods..

I've yet to see a manual pump factory,to bleed the fuel lines on a GM truck--wouldn't be a bad idea though..some VW's had one,saved a lot of grief if you happened to run one too low on fuel..:crazy:
 
rjfguitar said:
Ha:haha: I love it...:wink1:

Been using starting fluid ever since I knew what an engine was, as has my dad before me and every mechanic I know. I own, maintain, and work on probably on average of 20 times as many diesel engines as the average guy. I've sprayed every engine I own 10 times over with starting fluid at one time or another from cold weather to out of fuel.
I even have three combines and two tractors that have FACTORY starting fluid ports where you connect a can and have a button inside the cab to spray it when needed.:p:
Starting fluid will be fine, just cycle those plugs before you spray it and don't load it up, as that is usually what people do and vapor lock it up. Spray just enough to get it to fire and gently spray keeping a decent idle until it picks up fuel, it only takes a few seconds.:waytogo:
Click to expand...

I've worked ag. and heavy equipment for 40 years and also own and use over 30 diesels- farm tractors, dozers, backhoes, and several diesel cars and trucks. I only mention that since you mention having more experience than most people. I've been around a few myself. You mention your tractors with ether injection. Can you name one diesel tractor with OEM ether injection that has an IDI engine with precombustion-chambers? I've never seen one or heard of one. Direct injection yes - but the 6.2 is NOT direct-injected. If anything, IDI diesels often use diesel-heating elements in the air-intake for starting aids - not ether injection. Even direct-injected diesels use some sort of orifice/jet to limit the amount of ether that can be injected - regardless if a manual setup or an electric.
In regard to ether not causing damage if used carefully - again - true with a DI, often not true with an IDI. Even with cautious use, the precombustion chambers often develop small cracks and eventually cause bigger problems.
 
allright heres an update... got home at 10 from xmas stuff. pulled 6 or 8 GP's (turbo is a bitch) spent as much time on the second from the front (pass side) as i did on all the rest so i quit at that sh&*... am about to go try and get it to crank over and get sum fuel

update again tomarrow AM

oh and PS the blazer has been retrofitted w/ manuel glow plugs

yea
 
mmm im exhausted...

new update at 1:36 AM my time
blazer is started
i am about to crash into bed

thanks so much to everyone and especially trustyk5 and diesel4me
i followed like u said:
1) check fuel filter- i know know where it is and how it works
2) pull glowplugs and undo pink wire
(first glowplug work for me and mm yea pass. side sucks BALLS w/ the turbo)
3) crank it till fuel spills from filter
4) loosten whatchamagigers that go to injectors and plug in pink wire
5) crank till fuel leaks out whatchamagigers
6) tighten and re-install GP's
(once again pass side= Mutherf&*%er)
7) crank and start

yessssss


zzzzzzzz's for me

thanks, rick
 
Good deal, it is a pain in the arse job but it's something you should know how to do on a 6.2/6.5 anyways. At least now when you do a filter change it won't be a big deal in comparison.

This also tends to drive home the importance of not trying to run a diesel with nothing more than fumes in the tank...

Merry Xmas!

Rene
 
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