I run rotella 15w-40 in my motor. Have for 3 years now with no problem. My dad runs the same stuff in his for about 5 years. I cant compare it to others because its what Ive always used. We get it for free from the place he works.
CK5
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Diesel Oil in gas motor?
- Thread starter toy4x4runner
- Start date
jeeptuff
1/2 ton status
I work as a diesel mechanic, big stuff not the little toy fords, dodges and such, KW's and Pete's. We use Delo 400 in everything including our personal rigs (gas pots). We did a 50,000 mile test on Trevors fresh 383, broke it down after 50,000 hard miles and it was still like new, no deposits or sludge build up anywhere. I would say that yes there are better oils out there but I preffer the Delo 400, not only that for shop workers our oil changes don't cost us anything, it's our fringe benefit from the company..
rjfguitar said:
Ditto! That's really the only difference between the so-called "diesel oils" and "gas oils". There is absolutely no reason why something like Rotella-T will hurt a gas engine.
For the comment about diesel oils being thicker..........well, 15W-40 is 15W-40 whether it's certified for diesel use or just "made" for gas engines. That's kinda' like saying that 30 degrees F is "colder" in one state versus a different state............
While talking about the weight of the oil (5W-30, 15W-40, etc...).......thicker oil does NOT mean you are providing more protection, or more lubrication, etc... to your engine. It mainly has to do with the tolerances within the engine. Most newer engines are running stuff in the 5W-30, or even 5W-20, simply because the tolerances are tight enough where it doesn't need thicker oil and the thinner oil flows easier and hence better mileage. Heavy oil like 15W-40 is simply used for engines with higher tolerances, and the thicker/heavier oil can lubricate the larger tolerances better. On diesels the heavier oil also helped "hold" the particulates (soot) better. So yes, running something like 20W-50 in a new engine designed for 5W-20 could cause problems becaue the heavier oil will have a harder time getting into the tight tolerance parts.
bronderslev
Registered Member
there is no reson taht you can´t run on moter oil desigend for diesel engines.. in teori it a better oil because it is desigend fore a engine there presses harder... the pressure form the piston down thru to the crank shaft it fare greater on a diesel engine then it is on a gas engine....
toy4x4runner
1/2 ton status
Yup, that's what I thought. I don't wanna run anything thicker than a 10W-30 though. no need, my motor only has 140K, and is tight, no smoke or anything. I might throw Qt or 2 of some 15W-40 Delo or Valvoline Blue diesel oil to "flush" my motor out 500 miles before I change my oil. See what it cleans out. from what everyones been posting it should do some spring cleaning!
bronderslev said:
Think about that for a minute. In order for it to be a problem you'd need to be making "lots more power" in order to get "lots more forces on the piston".
While a diesel engine may under certain circumstances see higher forces due to certain cases of predetonation due to being too hot... the forces otherwise never change much. Heat problems when in a diesel is a problem also. It's one of the reasons they have a lot more oil in them. It helps with heat. If the oil returns into a lot more oil... in a lot bigger oil pan then the problem is solved a little with overheating the oil. I know it's a problem, especially on diesels that shoot oil at the bottom of the pistons. It works pretty good for removing heat from the pistons but it gets the oil really hot.
So... diesels almost always have oil coolers.
Diesel oil has a lot more detergents in it so it can get rid of the "dirty" parts in diesel. Diesel has a lot of sulphur in it (at least for a little while, I think in two years they're going to reduce the amount of sulphur in road diesel to such a small amount it won't lubricate any noteworthy amount) which happens to lubricate the injectors among other things. But, it leaves a lot of crap lying around in the motor. So.. the detergents keep the crap suspended in the oil so the filter can get it out. Which is why diesel filters are so much larger and usually require two filter changes per oil change.
88Silverado
1/2 ton status
toy4x4runner said:
Mobil-1 will do the same thing due to the mineral oil content. You can also buy motor flush which is a solvent that you add just before a oil change and let it idle for a couple minuets then dump.
toy4x4runner
1/2 ton status
what would you guys recomend, Mobil 1 synthetic or some Diesel oil?
Amsoil synthetics are about the best, and I see no reason why you would want to run diesel oil.toy4x4runner said:
rumbly truck
1/2 ton status
Rotella does have a large amount of zinc in it. Not only have the feds tightened restrictions on emissions, most gas engine oils have had the additive package tightened up also. As a result the lubricity has suffered. Diesel oils mostly have some zinc in them. but not all of them. If I remember right CompCams has started recomending rotella for cam breakin. If you change flavor of oils and the new one goes black rather quickly, the old stuff wasn't working very good. Thats part of its job, to suspend contaminants and get them to the filter. Rotella wont hurt you, it justs cost more.
bronderslev
Registered Member
CyberSniper said:
that mite me right, but the diesel engine compresion ratio is a lot greather then on a gas engine there fore the load on the bearings are bigger, especilie on a big stroke motor...
bronderslev said:
Right... and the bearings are wider also. The wider the bearing is the less stress on the oil... the smaller in diameter the bearing is the less stress on the oil (anglar velocity difference between the journal and bearing is less).
The compression ratio doesn't have much of an affect. The acceleration (change in speed) caused by the piston is what loads the crank and puts stress on the oil opposite it on the crank bearing. Since the rotating mass is heavier, it tends to "flatten out" the peaks in acceleration. It's kind of like comparing a BBC and a BBF.
mouse
1/2 ton status
One reason Ford, and other diesel manufacturers spec the oil for their diesels the way they do is to prevent foaming. Those engines use an iol pump to create fuel pressure, and foaming=no power. The diesel oils spec'd for the powerstroke have robust, anti-foaming properties.
Pookster
1/2 ton status
Rotella is quick and easy. that pretty much sums the reason up. Not saying Amsoil isnt good stuff, im sure it is, just somewhat pricey.
Whats your thoughts on bypass filters?
Whats your thoughts on bypass filters?
My thoughts? From what I have seen it is the ultimate filtration system. An Amsoil DUAL bypass system combined with Amsoil synthetic nearly eliminates engine wear during use.Pookster said:
bronderslev
Registered Member
what do you mean about bypass filters..?? i´m flightmechanick and im not sure we understand bypass filteríng the same way....
my way is.... if the filter gets klocd up it will bypass the oil around the filter element whitout filtering the oil, so the engine get polutet oil but it gets oil and there fore it dosent brake down... this is the way i understand bypass filter...
Claus
my way is.... if the filter gets klocd up it will bypass the oil around the filter element whitout filtering the oil, so the engine get polutet oil but it gets oil and there fore it dosent brake down... this is the way i understand bypass filter...
Claus
toy4x4runner
1/2 ton status
theres a conspiracy theory out there that Amsoil is a Pyramid scam due to the fact they only sell it in a pyramid style. and some people remember the pyramid scam called Amway or whatever... sounds like amsoil. And amsoil is sending out vitamin pills to sell with their oils if you become a dealer or somin too.... just a FYI I've been reading about. I think it's to much of a PITA to get Amsoil. In today's day and age... if they make a good product... open it up to the markets like NAPA etc. People's time is also valuable, along with their money... i'm not doing amsoil. Gotta find a local dealer of it, or get in the pyramid scam.... just not worth it. I'm just gonna use Rotella or Delo. It's a cheap oil (compare to mobil 1) and it'll keep my motor clean. Done. just not sure if I should run the Delo or rotella.
toy4x4runner said:
Amsoil has no pyramid scam or anything of the sort, and never has been involved in anything like you accuse. I think you got some incorrect information.
Amsoil is extremely easy to get. Easier than going down to your local Napa. Call me, I charge your credit card, and in two to four days you have your order on your front door step. Difficult huh?
Sorry you don't like Amsoil, they make oil for people that want the very best in oil protection, longevity, and technology advancements.
Good ol' Napa brand Valvoline 10W-30 should work just fine for you.
You would be silly to run Delo or Rotella, it's diesel oil, you don't have a diesel, you have a gas engine that doesn't require the added cost of diesel specific additives that are rendered nearly, if not completely, useless in a gas engine.
Leper
1/2 ton status
I had an amsoil rep tell me that mobil1 sludged up motors. I proceeded to tell him that I had been working on cars for 15 years and had never seen anything but clean engines when run with mobil1. I asked for a picture and he confessed that " It's what I was told"
