Different Door hinge question. Quick removal etc

[K85 Octane]

I'll start by linking the tech article.
http://coloradok5.com/doorhingepins.shtml
very nice and informative, can't wait to start since bushings are shot and need replacing.
I have a few questions. I've seen them touched on in previous threads but I want to start a short pre-build thread with some ideas and get feedback from ya'll.

1) Is grinding the splines off the pin necessary and why? Has anyone done a quick release pin without grinding/filing the splines? I'm sure it's easier to get the pin out, but I would think the splines are necessary to hold the pin better. The use of a tiny hammer (tappy tappy) to get them out wouldn't be a bother.

2) To anyone out there currently running this mod: Is there anything you would have done differently? Has the pins moved around any or loosened inside the bushings? It seems like the pin would have a little vertical slack, not having been pinched tight like the factory ones. Not sure if that's a bad thing, just thinking out loud. OOO and what are you supposed to do with these Dorman replacement pins anyway? Just put them in or are you supposed to pinch them somehow after installation?

3) After I cut the pins, I just tap them out in opposite directions right? Do the bushings go between each half of the hinge? Meaning, on the door half of the hinge, one bushing goes down ON TOP, and the other goes up ON THE BOTTOM. I guess I'll see regardless once I cut them out, I just like knowing everything before starting.

4) I've been looking at the connections in the door jam. I've come across a website with waterproof connectors.
http://www.suresealconnections.com/pdfs/sure-seal-series-entire-section-pgs11-26.pdf
On page 14, there are some connectors. I'm looking at the flanged one for the door and a regular one for the incoming wires. I think they are a twist lock style plug. Would really clean that area up and make unplugging super simple. Haven't called them yet for pricing or tools needed.

5) Has anyone tried using a bolt instead of the pin? I read that in an older thread. Talking about drilling out the bushings just a little and putting a bolt through with a nut at the end. Using a smooth shank through the bushing of course. Had anyone found a perfect size bolt, or a close one where drilling the bushings wont take too much material off?


whatcha think?

 

[rick88blaze]

I followed the write up in the link you posted, except I couldn't get holes drilled in 2 of the pins. So instead I cut grooves around the end of the pin and used a different clip to ensure the pins don't come out.

I posted a thread on here a long time ago about how I grooved my hinge pins. Here's the link to my thread.

As far as grinding off the splines, it is necessary otherwise you'll have to knock out the hinge bushing everytime you take your doors off. They are made of brass or copper I think so they are very soft and removing them and installing them would make them fit very loose. You have to tap the bushings into the door hinges to install them.

Hope this helps,
Rick

 

[K85 Octane]

Well I've modified the pins. It was super simple. Not sure what the hardest part was, walking back to my house for the camera, or finding more beer. I did have some tools not mentioned in other write ups.

Here are some pictures. I used a bench grinder, bench vise, drill, file, 5/64 drill bit, and Bud Light. I hope the bit was right, o well, it will work.

Before

After grinding. Notice the little bit of spline left over near the head. File the rest of that so the pin sits nice in the hinge.

Pin end. I ground a small flat spot so the drill bit doesn't walk.

 

[rick88blaze]

If I had thought about grinding a flat spot before I cut the grooves in mine I probably would have not cut the grooves. Looks good!!

 

[K85 Octane]

If I had thought about grinding a flat spot before I cut the grooves in mine I probably would have not cut the grooves. Looks good!!

it's just an easier way to start the drilling
but I like grove idea you used, seems like it might be easier to get the pins or E clips (if used) off the pin once it's moved. I read problems coming from pins that have moved and becoming a little harder getting the cotter pins out.

 

[rick88blaze]

I've only had mine off a couple times since I did it, but I haven't had any issues getting them off.

 

[vortec]

i did the quick-release mod a few years ago. no, the splines are not needed when you use cotter pins. i did the anti-walk flat spot trick as well. getting the doors off is easy. just add muscle. back on is a lot trickier but still not bad at all. takes me about 5 minutes off and 15 on. mostly just because i can barely fit my hand where it needs to be in order to pull the pins.