Different timing covers, help!

[Amtek]

I dun goofed...

When I rebuilt my engine, I got a new timing cover from summit as it was easier/cheaper to replace than trying to clean up the old rusted, super grimy original cover. Little did I know, the timing pointer was in a different position. I didnt realize this until we tried starting it for the first time to run cam-break in and the timing mark was no where near the pointer. Didnt think it was a big deal as the engine was tuned with the sound and seat of pants-o-meter, but it apparently wont pass smog inspection. Timing must be verified at 6 degrees.

My original timing cover/damper has the marks at the 12'o clock position, viewed down behind the water pump. The new cover has the timing pointer at 2'o clock on the driver's side. This is the one I bought: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3200-K/ pretty much the same as the spectre/mr. gasket covers sold everywhere.

I'm looking for the easiest way to fix this? I could get a new correct timing cover, but its not something I want to do with the engine now in the truck and its all sealed and non leaking. it would be the biggest PITA.

New harmonic damper? The rubber on the old one is pretty aged. What year to get the 2'o clock position? apparently there are 3 different 8" dampers.

How about a damper cover? This seems to have markings for both timing pointers. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Proform-141...Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item2315c2b3ae

I dont mind spending a little cash to save on some labor at this point.

 

[Fordum]

The easiest way is to just make new marks. You can determine where TDC is on the number one cylinder, mark the cover at that point with magic marker, scratch, snot, whatever shows up good.
Just pull the number one plug, stick a dowel in the hole, and slowly turn the engine. Since TDC is TDC whether its on the compression stroke or exhaust, it does not matter which one you make the mark on.

 

[Fordum]

Also, isn't the pointer on the summit one movable? Looks like it can be mounted in different places.
If so, take out two bolts, take it off, put the bolts back, and move it where you need it. No need to break the gasket seal.

 

[Amtek]

I thought about trying to find TDC that way but figured it would be too inaccurate as it would be a few degrees before i could feel where TDC was at. I heard about using a threaded bolt as a piston stop, rotating the engine both ways until it stopped and marking the damper, then measure and mark the center between the two and that would be TDC. But I dont have anything that could be used as a piston stop.

Since I posted, I have taken the pulley off the damper to get a better look at my options and realized that the keyway is TDC and pointed right at the center of the pulley bolt hole. I made a mark from the center of the crank, to the center of the pulley bolt hole and marked a line across the damper. Took out the timing light and got 8 degrees. PERFECT! Just gotta make it permanent.

Now just need to get two new gas caps and to plug up all the lines from the disconnected fuel tank (fuel selector valve removed by PO). Smog guy says they need to check both gas caps and possibly tanks even if its not used anymore just because its OE.

Im just happy that I can now get it smogged without having to 'pay a little extra' to make sure it passes anymore. The smog results says it measures less than half the HC, CO, and NOX readings than average vehicles.

Thanks for quick reply though!