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Disc brake conversion for 10b's..? anyone done it?

shady

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Is there a "parts from the junk yard" way of converting to rear disc brakes on factory 10b's? I wanna do my suburban brakes soon but figured I could get the parts stocked up and do the conversion at the same time. I had figured on doing a 14b sf from a newer truck with rear discs. But that wont happen for a while sine I CANT frickin find one near me:rolleyes:. well I can but not with the gears I want.

I've seen kits that use common parts but their $700:doah:
 
A few years ago there was a thread about such a conversion. From what I remember, it involved front 10 bolt calipers and mounting brackets, and a pair of rotors from the front of an '89 or so extended cab 1/2 ton Chevy pickup. The rotors needed to be the "thin hat" style that was used, because the rear wheel studs are so short. It involved some drilling and grinding to put it all together, but was basically a bolt-on type deal.
 
Late model 10 bolts have discs, but IIRC everything on the outers of the axles is different from the old 10 bolts or something. There is a thread here somewhere about trying it. I think the consensus was that it's easier to just use the newer axle and graft spring plates and shock mounts as needed. The beauty is that they have parking brakes, but I don't know what's involved in getting them to work.

I did a swap USSkoval is talking about, but on a 14Bs/f. I can't remember the dimension of the hole in the front backing plate, but it might fit a 10b tube. I had to enlarge it for a 14b and drill a new mounting pattern. Spacers will be required for this bracket. Honestly, I don't recommend front calipers for the swap because they are too big. A front caliper from a car might get you close enough you don't need a prop valve, but I can't tell you which one will fit.
 
I'll have to look into that:thinking: Id even do longer wheel studs if I had to to make it work:dunno: right now it stops like chit and it needs help. I've been delaying out of time, money, and lazyness. But a much needed emergency stop that dint happen very well yesterday is motivating me:rolleyes:
 
putting a prop valve in wouldnt be a big deal. I've heard you can just swap in a late model master cylinder to get the right pressures:dunno:
 
I'll have to look into that:thinking: Id even do longer wheel studs if I had to to make it work:dunno: right now it stops like chit and it needs help. I've been delaying out of time, money, and lazyness. But a much needed emergency stop that dint happen very well yesterday is motivating me:rolleyes:

Properly operating stock brakes work just fine on a 1/2 ton for street driving. Maybe just redo the rear brakes and have the drums turned and make sure they are adjusted?
 
well, if it were me, I wouldn't bother. I would go 3/4 ton if I was going to put that much into it...


just my .02$
 
It Would Be much easier to Swap In a stronger axle and get bigger brakes at the same time. Even if you have to regear it. All the parts would be stock and off the shelf parts that would be easier to work on than a one off deal you Have to make fit. Even if you stick with stock drums On the 14 sf, you still get a bigger set of brakes and should work better than the half tons. It would be nice to use the later axle that has disks withy the ebrake already attached though. My ff conversion is a one off with cadi Calipers and parts are eventually going to get scarce considering it came from a 77 el dorado. Lol
 
:thumb: thats what I was looking for. I didnt even think of the cars:doah: I bet the caprice had a 10b also:thinking: Ill have to look it up cause it would give me more options at the yard.

I dodnt wanna go 3/4 cause if my wheels and such.

and regearing doing an axle would be expensive. their $250 for ANY rear axle w/housing at the local yard. I bet from them I could get all the outer brake stuff from the same car that I would need for $100. throw on some new pads and should be good to go:waytogo:
 
bolt pattern would be different though:confused:
 
It's possible there is a 6-lug rotor the same size. It would be silly to re-drill a rotor since it's a wear item. Although now that I think about it, I've been on the same set of rear rotors for a dozen years now...
 
There is an easy way using junkyard parts. use Third Generation V8 Camero and Firebird parts. The axle bolt flange on these is the same as older 10 bolt and 12 bolt GM rear axle housings.
This came out in an article in Carcraft Magazine, April 2012.


While they are disc brakes...the drum brakes in those cars work better than the disc's. They are a pain to keep adjusted, even the later 88-92 PBR aluminum calipers suck (think Caddy calipers but smaller). For a swap...I'd look elsewhere. I'd be leaning toward a set off of a newer truck.
 
There is an easy way using junkyard parts. use Third Generation V8 Camero and Firebird parts. The axle bolt flange on these is the same as older 10 bolt and 12 bolt GM rear axle housings.
This came out in an article in Carcraft Magazine, April 2012.

If that's the case, 4th gen F-body brakes are much more common and should work because people use them on 3rd gens. Then there's the common S10 Blazers too.

While they are disc brakes...the drum brakes in those cars work better than the disc's. They are a pain to keep adjusted, even the later 88-92 PBR aluminum calipers suck (think Caddy calipers but smaller). For a swap...I'd look elsewhere. I'd be leaning toward a set off of a newer truck.

I haven't had any gripes about any of mine. I've found the disc/disc setups work well once they are hot... why is beyond me.
 
I recall finding a Toyota app or something that used a thin 6 lug rotor.

2003-2005 Astro were apparently 6 lug, but as I recall, the rotor was 13", which may not fit depending on your wheel.
 
Not sure if it helps or would work but Ruffstuff used to sell disc brake conversion brackets for 12 bolt rears. I bouught a set for the 12 bolt that was going to be in the Willys im bulding, I never fully assembled it as I swapped in a disc'd 44 (narrower).

That reminds me, isuzu rodeos had factory rear discs on a dana 44 with the GM 6 lug patten and they are pretty thin. I am running one I the willys, factory 4.10's and discs with a mech e brake setup .
 
would 44 stuff bolt on to a 10b? as far as thin its not a big deal. I'd restud if needed.
 
The thickness of the rotor isn't really an issue for lug studs, the problem is the rotor thickness needed (or allowed) by the caliper. That's why the early Cadillac disk brake calipers are used and not later...the early calipers take a thick rotor (which is easier to find in 6 and 8 lug patterns) but the later stuff only accomodates thinner rotors that weren't used on 6/8 lug GM apps.

Not saying Cadillac are good (and as far as I'm concerned, they aren't, or they'd still use that parking brake mechanism) just the reason one is used vs. the other, and why there might be issues using other factory caliper setups. Caliper brackets are easy (up to a point), it's the rotor thickness, lug pattern, e-brake, and diameter of wheel required to clear that muddies the water.
 
I dont need e brake either. never used one for anything but goofing off in my life. and the driving this thing does it wouldnt matter:dunno: I have some good posabilities. I'm gonna spend some time in the JY and see what they have on hand.
 
No one has said this yet I don't think but the 99 and up Chevy trucks with disk brakes require a 16 inch rim to clear the caliper so I don't think that would work for you.
 
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