JIMMY76
1/2 ton status
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CK5
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discs brakes r done
- Thread starter JIMMY76
- Start date
is that hard brakelines going straight into the caliper? Hard to tell in the pic. Id reroute the brakelines, thats it, looks great.
JIMMY76
1/2 ton status
nope the are chevette rubber lines that's what I said too when I put the pics on here I knew some one was going to ask but I do have to make some brakets for support of the hard lines though
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Muddytazz
1 ton status
Looking good 
But can you do one thing? Adjust your pics to they are stacked instead of side by side, have to side scroll a lot.
But can you do one thing? Adjust your pics to they are stacked instead of side by side, have to side scroll a lot.
Looking good
But can you do one thing? Adjust your pics to they are stacked instead of side by side, have to side scroll a lot.
just hit the enter key between the photo links. thanks.
why did you choose to mount the brackets in the forward position? where does tha put the bleeders?
Looks nice! 
I've got the same thing in the works and I was wondering if the bend in the brackets went in or out. I'm glad you posted the pics, because now I have my answer before I start.
What's the application on the rubber lines? Chevette you say, any particular year?
I've got the same thing in the works and I was wondering if the bend in the brackets went in or out. I'm glad you posted the pics, because now I have my answer before I start.
What's the application on the rubber lines? Chevette you say, any particular year?
JIMMY76
1/2 ton status
there fix the pics, they are for a 78 chevette, and angled to the front puts the bleeders exactly on top. the brackets are from ruff stuff they are in the vendors section for $45 you can't beat that and they are bent so you don't have to use spacers. the angled tword the front is a mistake but lets see what happens? I had the calipers switched left on right and right on left
as much info an I could find on google didn't really specify what was better, it mostly just said make sure the bleeder is at the top.
as much info an I could find on google didn't really specify what was better, it mostly just said make sure the bleeder is at the top.
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Pvt. Maggot
1/2 ton status
Looks good, those blocks scare me, and the exhaust is run pretty weird, but let us know how they perform!
JIMMY76
1/2 ton status
yeah I am tryin to fix all the last owners jobs they are 5" blocks I dont like em either but that is what comes in the kits for the one tons, that is what the last owners put on I will be changing all the suspension. The last owner had one of those drop down bumpers on it so thats what he rigged up to clear the bumper that will be fixed soon too..If you didn't notice the rear hard brake line is kinda rigged too the will all be fixed soon
K-5 Bomber
1/2 ton status
Man, I'm dyin' to do this to mine. I do a lot of towing and the drums suck eggs! What was the total cost of your project?
JIMMY76
1/2 ton status
these are all about what they cost
brackets-$50 after shipping
calipers- $70 both no core
discs- $50
pads-$20
I got all new bearings and races not need if yours are good_$90
brakes lines-$30 both
banjo bolts $10 both
new bolts for brackets can use old ones but mine were nasty all grade 8 stuff: bolts, lock washers, flat washers-$20
2 cans caliper paint $10
2 cans brake cleaner $6
1 tub of high temp bearing grease $5
1 tube of high temp high pressure black rtv $6
16 new wheel studs $40
1 tube red locktite $5
2 axel flange gaskets $4 first time I ever used these use to just use RTV, When I took apart my axel it didn'T have them. I didn't know they were metal (felpro) I think it is the first time I have ever seen them
I think thats it grand total $416 but you can take off the stuff you might not need bearings, races, wheel studs, bracket bolts, paint and it can be alot cheaper
brackets-$50 after shipping
calipers- $70 both no core
discs- $50
pads-$20
I got all new bearings and races not need if yours are good_$90
brakes lines-$30 both
banjo bolts $10 both
new bolts for brackets can use old ones but mine were nasty all grade 8 stuff: bolts, lock washers, flat washers-$20
2 cans caliper paint $10
2 cans brake cleaner $6
1 tub of high temp bearing grease $5
1 tube of high temp high pressure black rtv $6
16 new wheel studs $40
1 tube red locktite $5
2 axel flange gaskets $4 first time I ever used these use to just use RTV, When I took apart my axel it didn'T have them. I didn't know they were metal (felpro) I think it is the first time I have ever seen them
I think thats it grand total $416 but you can take off the stuff you might not need bearings, races, wheel studs, bracket bolts, paint and it can be alot cheaper
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K-5 Bomber
1/2 ton status
Sounds like a pretty good deal over-all. The brackets are from Ruff Stuff, but what about the other major parts? Which calipers did you get (I know the Eldorado calipers are E-brake equiped), and what are the specs on the rotors? Did you have to machine them at all, or were they bolt on?
JIMMY76
1/2 ton status
everything was bolt on. Calipers and rotors were from advanced auto for a '75 k20 it was all pretty simple the hardest thing was with the races but I rented the race and bearing kit fron autozone so it wasn't that bad
George_Pimpdaddy
1/2 ton status
i just ordered the kit as well any tips??
x2. I understand that front brake lines from the same vehicle as the caliper work too. You are not just limited to '75 K20 calipers either. I am going to give the front lines and calipers from my parts truck (in sig) a try.
JIMMY76
1/2 ton status
it's pretty straight forward. Really the only thing is with the ruff stuff brackets you have to use the 75 k20 style calipers, because first I just got 86 calipers (same year as my truck), they were way too big. Thats really only thing I ran into. Everything is pretty simple. As for the lines I am not too sure. All I know is that dan from ruff stuff recommended these lines due to the fact is that they will connect right to the hard line without any modification so thats what I used.
I think they are probably shorter than the 75 K20 lines.
You are right. If the brackets are designed for D44 calipers, 10bolt calipers won't fit. At least not without some grinding. I know this from when I swapped out my 10blt for a D44.
You are right. If the brackets are designed for D44 calipers, 10bolt calipers won't fit. At least not without some grinding. I know this from when I swapped out my 10blt for a D44.
Well, I'll give it a shot and see what happens. It's not the end of the world If I need to pick up some calipers, but I'll try the ones I already have first (free!)
Jimmy, where did you get your wheel studs (and for what vehicle)? Did they fit with no issues? Advanced Auto quoted me $50 for a box of 10.
Jimmy, where did you get your wheel studs (and for what vehicle)? Did they fit with no issues? Advanced Auto quoted me $50 for a box of 10.
JIMMY76
1/2 ton status
Well for the wheel studs I just got the sames ones as stock Autozone was the cheapest 2.99ea so other store priced matched but I got 8 from autozone 2 from pepboys and 6 from ABC and O' Rielys couldn't even find them but I think that was the box of rocks that was looking them up fault.
Only Reason I replaced them was at some point in time in my trucks past the right rear whell was loose and it ate a groove in the studs.
Only Reason I replaced them was at some point in time in my trucks past the right rear whell was loose and it ate a groove in the studs.
