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Disk conversion questions

wage92

1/2 ton status
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Nov 3, 2011
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Upstate New York
Okay so im working on converting my 14 bff to disk brakes, i have ordered my bracket and i have a couple questions. I want to replace the bearings and seals why im in there, but when i am buying these bearings and seals what kind of truck do i tell them i need them for?

also, i am going to replace all the wheel studs, what truck should i search to get those? i am most likely going to get it all at rockauto, but possibly advance auto. I assume its a 1 ton truck but just wanna make sure i dont do a dually right?
 
Depends on where your 14BFF came from. A 3/4-ton Suburban of the right year is likely a good choice, as they would have only come as SRW ... but you gotta get the year right to specify it as a full-floater aka 10.5" ring (as opposed to the semi-float's 9.5" gear.)

-- A
 
if you want all new search around few vendors here or pirate4x4 for timkin bearing deals . as the parts stores are getting crazy on there prices.

as for year of axle if hub bearings and races and seals there all the same . only real diffrence was pinion seal and 1 bearing on the pinion around 85-up.

also if you want new studs and good length on studs get them for a drw aplication . there the longest and help with aluminum wheel thickness and getting propper thread contact for lug nuts .

here is the 14ff bible for info http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavista/14b_bible/index.html

dont forget the outer bearing is pressed out with the race threw the back of the hub with the inner race out also. and there is a big snap ring holding the race in place also for the outer bearing/race area. thay ride in gear oil so no greese packing is needed. but i do a tiny light coat on the bearings tyo help protect before the oil gets to the ends of the tubes. and after driving for few miles recheck rear oil level and top back off.

before you buy bearings and races check them. most dont show a lot of wear & tear .
 
Depends on where your 14BFF came from. A 3/4-ton Suburban of the right year is likely a good choice, as they would have only come as SRW ... but you gotta get the year right to specify it as a full-floater aka 10.5" ring (as opposed to the semi-float's 9.5" gear.)

-- A

it is a full floater, i know that. So what year sub would work?
 
73-80 3/4 ton sub will have a ff 14 bolt with no chance of sf 14 bolt confusion.
 

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