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disk/disk conversion

virgilh

1/2 ton status
Joined
Sep 8, 2004
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Location
Sacramento California
im doing a disk conversion on my rear 14 bolt for my 84 blazer i was wondering if anyone here uses a different than stock jb8 brake master cylinder. do i need to add a 10 lb check valve in the rear brake line? thanks i tryed a search found nothing /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thinking.gif
 
I'm using a Eldorado master cylindar and it works great. I think the stock master cylindars work fine for most people too. You won't need the 10lb valve for the rear anymore.
 
ehanks for the info i thought you needed a 10 lb valve in the rear line to keep the brakes from draggin. the front disks have a check valve so the disks do not drag and there is not one in the rear of the master cylinder because the brake shoe springs keep the brake shoes from draggin please let me know if im correct thanks /forums/images/graemlins/1zhelp.gif
 
There is no set in stone sort of way to figure that part out. When I did the rear disk swap on my burb, I didn't change ANYTHING, still running all the stock brake stuff(mc/booster/prop valve/lines/etc). When I did the swap on someone elses 70 K5, a crap load of stuff had to be changed.

So the only real way to figure out what your particular rig is going to need changed(if any)is to just do the swap and drive it and see how the brakes react.
 
[ QUOTE ]
There is no set in stone sort of way to figure that part out. When I did the rear disk swap on my burb, I didn't change ANYTHING, still running all the stock brake stuff(mc/booster/prop valve/lines/etc). When I did the swap on someone elses 70 K5, a crap load of stuff had to be changed.

So the only real way to figure out what your particular rig is going to need changed(if any)is to just do the swap and drive it and see how the brakes react.

[/ QUOTE ]

Ditto..Did the swap and didnt change a dang thing and they work GOOD..73K5 /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
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