Does this look like excessive distributor gear wear or is this normal? If so, what would cause this and how do I solve the problem? This only has about 3,000 miles on it.
thanks,
thanks,
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
Distributor gear wear question...
- Thread starter Keitha
- Start date
The bottom pic does appear that there is severe wear going on. Does this engine have a high volume or high pressure oil pump? Either is known for causing that kind of wear on the distributor gear. The other thing that will cause it is if you are running a cam that is steel billet and the gear on the cam is steel billet as well instead of sintered iron. The last thing that can cause wear like that is if the distributor isn't shimmed properly if the block deck, heads or intake manifold have been machined and the distributor is sitting too deep causing the gear to mesh in the wrong location with the cam gear.
The engine does not have a high volume/pressure oil pump. I am not sure about the cam. I don't think the block deck or heads have been machined either.
I am swaping my stock intake manifold to an Edelbrock and noticed this when I pulled the distributor.
Is it odd that the wear is shifted to the bottom of the gear a bit? I could try it w/o the gasket so it sits a hair lower.
I am swaping my stock intake manifold to an Edelbrock and noticed this when I pulled the distributor.
Is it odd that the wear is shifted to the bottom of the gear a bit? I could try it w/o the gasket so it sits a hair lower.
Fabrimacator21
1/2 ton status
Revisiting this question:
My distributor still has the same issue. If my cam gear is steel, What is the best distributor gear to run? I have it out of the car now, so I could change it if need be. I am just running a OEM replacement distributor. My motor has a full roller cam set-up in it. Does that make a difference on the type of distributor gear?
thanks,
My distributor still has the same issue. If my cam gear is steel, What is the best distributor gear to run? I have it out of the car now, so I could change it if need be. I am just running a OEM replacement distributor. My motor has a full roller cam set-up in it. Does that make a difference on the type of distributor gear?
thanks,
Yes. Check with the cam maker, they will probably recommend a bronze gear for the distributor.
Gus
phreddei166
1/2 ton status
I ran into same problem. Got rid of high volume oil pump and switched to Comp Cams composite dist. drive gear. http://www.jegs.com/i/Comp-Cams/249/12140/10002/-1?parentProductId=754028 Spendy but has been run lots of miles and still looks new.
Wow, that is an expensive gear. What advantage does it have over Bronze?
Thanks for the help.
Philly87
1/2 ton status
What camshaft is in the motor?
Typically the only thing that requires a bronze gear is a solid or billet roller in a Chevy.
A standard hydraulic will use a regular cast iron gear.
A hydraulic roller will need a cast gear that has a melonized hardened coating.
I agree that it is always best to check with the cam manufacturer to find out what they recommend.
Scott is right too; a high volume or hi pressure oil pump can tear up a gear too.
-Phil
Typically the only thing that requires a bronze gear is a solid or billet roller in a Chevy.
A standard hydraulic will use a regular cast iron gear.
A hydraulic roller will need a cast gear that has a melonized hardened coating.
I agree that it is always best to check with the cam manufacturer to find out what they recommend.
Scott is right too; a high volume or hi pressure oil pump can tear up a gear too.
-Phil
I have a Herbert Cams Hydrolic Rolller in the motor. I will try to reach them today.
Will the bronze work with a hydrolic roller or do I specifically need to find the melonized one?
thanks,
phreddei166
1/2 ton status
Scott, does endplay of the distributor gear cause any issues like this?
I know gear shims are sold to set the endplay of the gear, just wasn't sure if that was a factor in wear.
Philly87
1/2 ton status
Bronze is a soft metal and those gears are usually meant to be sacrificial in race engines as they will tend to wear quicker and are meant to wear quicker.
If Herbert Cams recommends a melonized gear to run with their hydraulic roller (and I'll put money on it they will) then you need to find a melonized gear. This gear can be found in the newer Vortec motors that are all Hydraulic Roller.
I've heard good things about the Comp Composite gear also although I don't have first hand experience with one.
The nice thing about a melonized gear is that it will work on a hydraulic roller or a regular hydraulic cam.
All of our Chevy MSD distributors are shipped with melonized gears on them with the exception of the race pieces that come with bronze.
-Phil
If Herbert Cams recommends a melonized gear to run with their hydraulic roller (and I'll put money on it they will) then you need to find a melonized gear. This gear can be found in the newer Vortec motors that are all Hydraulic Roller.
I've heard good things about the Comp Composite gear also although I don't have first hand experience with one.
The nice thing about a melonized gear is that it will work on a hydraulic roller or a regular hydraulic cam.
All of our Chevy MSD distributors are shipped with melonized gears on them with the exception of the race pieces that come with bronze.
-Phil
Thanks Phil,
I spoke with Herbert cams and they said bronze is OK or go melonized if I want more wear resistance.
Which distributor do you recomend as a good stock replacement? If your distributors have the melonized gear, then I might as well just buy the whole thing if the price is decent. This is just going in a mildly build 383cid w/ a full roller cam set-up.
I spoke with Herbert cams and they said bronze is OK or go melonized if I want more wear resistance.
Which distributor do you recomend as a good stock replacement? If your distributors have the melonized gear, then I might as well just buy the whole thing if the price is decent. This is just going in a mildly build 383cid w/ a full roller cam set-up.
Last edited:
454Sub
5/8 ton status
You could probably just go to a junkyard and pull a Vortec dizzy and knock the roll pin out and use that gear. I was going to do that but did not find one single 454 in the yard, so I had to buy mine new from GM.
Distributor end play really has no effect on gear wear. The tighter the end play is (within reason, .010" minimum) the better control there is of distributor dwell.
Philly87
1/2 ton status
Are you still using the factory fuel injection on the 91 Suburban? Give me a few details about what you have and I'd be more than happy to recommend a good fit...
Yes, I am running the factory EFI. It is a 383cid w/ full roller Cam. For the most part, everything else is stock-ish/OEM type components, just tuned etc. I do have a MSD 6AL hooked up and a MSD Blaster Coil.
Philly87
1/2 ton status
Look into our part number 8366. It's a direct replacement distributor and comes with the melonized gear already on it.
If the distributor you have is in good shape then go down to the parts store and buy a distributor gear from a 96-99 Chevy Truck with a 350 and call it a day. I'd buy a quality gear though not a Chinese cheapy. Maybe even get one from the dealer to ensure you get a quality gear.
-Phil
If the distributor you have is in good shape then go down to the parts store and buy a distributor gear from a 96-99 Chevy Truck with a 350 and call it a day. I'd buy a quality gear though not a Chinese cheapy. Maybe even get one from the dealer to ensure you get a quality gear.
-Phil
I ordered AC Delco #10457356 from Rock Auto for $30. My distributor is in OK shape but has a .427" drive shaft. I hope the one I ordered is the same as most aftermarket ones seem to be .500".
Thanks for all the help,
Thanks for all the help,
