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distributor/spark question, help me out!

C

coolhandluke

1/2 ton status
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Location
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Hey guys, went out to start the beast today, no go.

Quickly realized I wasn't getting any spark. Unfortunately, there ends my knowledge of ignition systems. I started looking at it, and saw there was only 1 wire going in

go to
<a target="_blank" href=http://community.webshots.com/album/25664191GqxOfZGGCk
>http://community.webshots.com/album/25664191GqxOfZGGCk
</a>
to see pictures of it. anyway, you can see there is a small green wire going into the top/side of the distributor. Is this where the juice comes from? I tried to test that small green wire, and found no juice. I dug around and found that wire had become disconnected from SOMETHING under the steering column, but I don't know what. Anyone know where it should hook up? If I have the key on the on position, it should be hot, correct? If not, what do I need to do to get juice to it? if it is that wire that is bad, can I take any other live wire and hook it up here to get the distributor power?

Thanks for giving this poor guy a clue.

83 k5 originally diesel, now 350, 700-R4 12 bolt rear, 33x12.50 BFG Trails (yuck), desperately seeking a lift
sometimes nothing is a real cool hand
<P ID="edit"><FONT class="small">Edited by coolhandluke on 02/01/02 03:45 PM.</FONT></P>
 
Looks like someone has already been in there messing your wiring up. When you repair it, by all means, do it right, so you don't have this problem again.

I'd say that is the "correct" wire, because of its location. Not sure if its the correct color, its certainly not the correct plug. That wire should have 12 volts *when the key is on*

I'm not sure exactly where the power for it comes from, but I'd assume fuse panel or ignition switch. You could tap into one of the accessory plugs on the fuse panel to test if you like, again, it would need to be 12v switched ignition.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
ok,,from what i can see,,you missing a wire in there. that green wire is what most people supply for you to hook up your tach. if it had one in it before,,the guy just pulled the connectors off inside instead of pulling it from there.
also,,if you look at the terminal where that wire goes in,,it should say " tach" and " bat " right beside it. the green wire should be in " tach " of course,,so disconnect it if there no tach in the truck,,second,,if it is in the " bat " spot,,then seem's like they may have hot wired the dist. from the fuse box. honestly,,there should be a thick,red wire coming from the starter selenoid or battery to that " bat " position on the dist. it run's behind the block in that wire loom that is there going to the dirstibutor along with the other thick plug that is there. if the green wire is in the bat spot,,hook it up to the fuse block and see if the truck start's,,if it does,,then you need to wire it properly from the battery or starter celenoid to work when the key is turned on.

<font color=purple>ANYBODY LOSE THEIR JEEP????????
blush.gif

I JUST FOUND ONE UNDER MY BLAZER!!!!
cool.gif

wink.gif
wink.gif
</font color=green>
 
Can't use this as gospel, its from an '87 Monte manual, but they are all pretty similar. I don't think green is anything to do with ignition, except some PO's stupid fix. Brown is almost always tach, pink is coil.

ftp.mindspring.com/users/yeagerd/harness_schematic87.jpg

(anyone know how to make an ftp clicky?)

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
auto meter and aftermarket tach's that i know of use green as their primary source wire from the dist. to the tach.

<font color=purple>ANYBODY LOSE THEIR JEEP????????
blush.gif

I JUST FOUND ONE UNDER MY BLAZER!!!!
cool.gif

wink.gif
wink.gif
</font color=green>
 
ok,,that sure didn't work like i thought it would,,lol
hmmmmmmmm ?

<font color=purple>ANYBODY LOSE THEIR JEEP????????
blush.gif

I JUST FOUND ONE UNDER MY BLAZER!!!!
cool.gif

wink.gif
wink.gif
</font color=green>
 
No that doesn't work unfortunately, since thats an ftp address, HTTP screws it up.

Anyways, cut and paste works like a charm.

My thought process on his wiring is this:
The wire appears to be the only one on the distributor. The correct plug, whether its a tach or batt lead, is not present, indicating someone with...will hold my tongue here...didn't repair or install it correctly. Unless there is a wire laying there that fell off, not visible in the pic, since the truck was running before, that HAS to be the coil wire.

He said there is a wire dangling somewhere else now, that wasn't before. With the bad job someone did with the (suspected) coil wire, I would not put it past them to have done the same thing somewhere else, leading to a lost connection.

This, kiddies, is why you solder and shrink tube all of your wire connections, instead of using butt connectors, or wire nuts.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
No that doesn't work unfortunately, since thats an ftp address, HTTP screws it up.

Anyways, cut and paste works like a charm.

My thought process on his wiring is this:
The wire appears to be the only one on the distributor. The correct plug, whether its a tach or batt lead, is not present, indicating someone with...will hold my tongue here...didn't repair or install it correctly. Unless there is a wire laying there that fell off, not visible in the pic, since the truck was running before, that HAS to be the coil wire.

He said there is a wire dangling somewhere else now, that wasn't before. With the bad job someone did with the (suspected) coil wire, I would not put it past them to have done the same thing somewhere else, leading to a lost connection.

This, kiddies, is why you solder and shrink tube all of your wire connections, instead of using butt connectors, or wire nuts.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
No that doesn't work unfortunately, since thats an ftp address, HTTP screws it up.

Anyways, cut and paste works like a charm.

My thought process on his wiring is this:
The wire appears to be the only one on the distributor. The correct plug, whether its a tach or batt lead, is not present, indicating someone with...will hold my tongue here...didn't repair or install it correctly. Unless there is a wire laying there that fell off, not visible in the pic, since the truck was running before, that HAS to be the coil wire.

He said there is a wire dangling somewhere else now, that wasn't before. With the bad job someone did with the (suspected) coil wire, I would not put it past them to have done the same thing somewhere else, leading to a lost connection.

This, kiddies, is why you solder and shrink tube all of your wire connections, instead of using butt connectors, or wire nuts.

Dorian
My tech/links page: <a target="_blank" href=http://www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html>www.dorianyeager.com/index2.html</a>
Why insist on counting when the ring gear has the tooth counts stamped in?
 
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