Distributor Wires/Old ECM

[MrSchaeferPants]

So I've been tracing down vacuum leaks and hooking up lines and getting the mess put back proper.

Took the intake manifold off, and valve covers cause they need new ones, so I removed the distributor. I have some chopped up and spliced wires. Wondering how it is, or was supposed to go.

It's an 85 Jimmy, it DOES have an ECM behind the glove box. It has a M4MED carb. 17085226. Carb makes sense for the truck, though I'm not sure if someone just put that on there and got rid of an original CCC? My chilton book says for '85 the distributor should go to the ecm. But the color codes on the schematic doesn't match up. If I flip a page back and look at an '83, the colors match up, and the distributor has the ignition module like the one in my truck has. So did someone change the carburetor and distributor to make this a non CCC set up?

Here's the wires in quesiton.

Distributor has the same 4 prong plug, it was not hooked up when I bought it. The red wire (Yes RED) was just sitting not hooked up as well.

The pink wire I'm assumming is my ignition wire. Since that's what my book says pink is on both 85 with ECM and 83 w/o ECM. Plugs into the cap.

The 4 prong like I said was not connected. The green and black wire are cutt off of the 4 prong connector, and spliced into eachother outside the distributor body.

The schematic says the brown is ground, black/white/green go from distributor to the ignition module.

I have no idea how this should go. If this was changed from CCC to non CCC correctly, or if someone F'd it up. I'd like to keep everything I have now.

 

[sweetk30]

4 wire is for electronic spark control ( esc ) = computer up in dash.

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

4 wire is for electronic spark control ( esc ) = computer up in dash.

Ok so my question now is that a shadetree way of removing the ECM from the system? Because the brown is ground, green/white/black goto the ignition module and comes out the other side to the red/black/white and goes the cap via the three prong connector.

So does anyone know this other red wire just kinda sitting there, and should I leave the black/green wire spliced into eachother?

The truck runs like crap, I figured (and to much extent it was) vacuum leaks. Because the symptoms IMO is a lean condition. Because when I start the truck, it starts just fine, but at idle it dies unless I hold my foot down a little and give it gas. After 2 minutes or so I have enough time to run around to the carb, and if I push the choke plate most of the way closed the rpms will pick up and it'll smooth out. So I figure vacuum leaks. I just rebuilt the carb, adjusted the electric choke, adjusted A/F mixture 2 1/2-3 turns out (they were at like 5-6 turns out) to get a base to start with. I can't set the timming because if I go anywhere near what it's supposed to be (4 advanced) it'll kill the truck.

Now I'm getting away from my original question, this is just everything that's lead up to what I have now. So I'll keep it to the Dist/ECM. For a once ECM vehicle, is the distributor ok the way it is? I COULD hook it all back up the way it's supposed to, but all the smog is off, so I don't want an engine light on constantly. No emissions where I live. The reason I don't think it was a CCC was because there's no harness that would have gone to the carburetor's three prong connector. Since it's a M4MED I just have the dual capacity pump wires. One to the harness, the other to the thermostat. In the earlier model year schematics I see the distributor like I have, with the ignition module that does not goto the ECM, however it DOES have an ECM, seemingly Calif. vehicles.

Actually could I hook it back up the proper way, I guess depending on what ECM it is. Smog or no smog, theres no oxygen sensor, so that shouldn't affect it.

 

[MrSchaeferPants]

4 wire is for electronic spark control ( esc ) = computer up in dash.

Ok, after trying to dig up some info on my dist I understand now. So why would this be disconnected, and by passed? I just read a thread about by passing CC by jumping the black and green wires like mine is. But if that is a ESC and not ECM, why would this have been done? If I hook everything back up the way it's supposed to be, should it work. And my last problem is still this mysterious red wire. That does appear that it should hook up where the pink one is, and the pink hooks up to the second prong on the red wire. But with a crappy schematic in the chilton book, that doesn't match my set up, I'm at a loss.

EDIT: So after more research jumping the green and black by passes the ESC. You can leave it plugged in and by pass it at the ESC too if you like. Supposidly this was often done when the ESC would heat up and stop working. Just have to alter your timming. Only problem is still this red wire. I'll hook it up at the dist. cap and plug the pink into it and see what happens. Maybe After I put it all back together it'll run just fine after some timing and carb adjustments... just getting frustrated since I bought this a week and some change ago and have only driven it home...