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DIY RUST REMOVAL FROM ENGINE BLOCK?

M

MEANSTREAK K30

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Hello all, I recently got a free engine block- 4bolt 350 that has rebuild potential. Only problem is , it is quite rusty. I was wondering if there is a way I could take the rust off myself at home inexpensively? I have heard of people using vinegar, evaporust(expensive) , electrolosis, ect. Recently on YOUTUBE, I have seen this product called Dr. X rust remover, and am skeptical. Has anyone used it before? I know I should take it to a machine shop, but I do not live near a good one that I trust. The block will be put in storage,(couple years) and I don't want it to get any worse while I save money for the other parts/machining that will be done. So anyone have any thoughts/ ideas or what they have done to remove rust from cast iron?
 
76k5blazerr said:
wire wheel on a drill
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LOL, I don't think that will cut it. Maybe on the outside of the block, but what about the tight spots inside? That Dr. X stuff looks promising but it is like $40 a gallon. I want the block to look like new, so I geuss the only logical solution is to find a machine shop that has a caustic solution to get inside the water jackets , ect. Most machine shops around here only have hot tanks .
 
1977k5 said:
What's the plan down the road?
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I am going to rebuild it into a fairly stout motor when I gather more parts, just want to get all the rust off so it won't pit the cylinders ect. so bad that it can't be salvaged. I realize that the thing to do is to take it to the machine shop , but am wondering if there is an alternative I can try here at home to derust this thing inside and out.
 
I wonder how much it would cost to get hot tanked? Then lightly hone the cylinders. Oil then paint.
 
Well you said that Evapo-rust is expensive, but I know from experience that it works.
We dipped a radiator support in it.

20150723_185541.jpg
 
Muriatic acid, available at any hardware store, 7-10 bucks a gallon, get two, and a yard sprayer, the kind you would pump up yourself after filling, spray that acid in a fully open well ventilated area preferably on asphalt, cause the acid eats concrete, then wash with water and follow immediately with healthy doses of WD40.

Disclaimer: muriatic acid will eat your skin, eyes, lungs, clothes, any type of shiny metal, concrete, plant life, etc. But it kills rust as long as you follow with wd40 or similar after rinsing it off. Use at your own discretion.
 
Believe it or not, but oven cleaner spray will get the rust off. Plus, the stuff is cheap and easy to find. Keep in mind that the stuff stinks to high heaven, and I don't know if it will eat any of your gaskets or not. I'd guess not since a lot of ovens have a rubberized door gasket. Regardless, go to YouTube and search for "cast iron skillet rust oven cleaner spray". You'll see all kinds of videos where cast iron skillets look brand new after sitting overnight after being sprayed.
 
Thanks for all the replies, This gives me some ideas!
Hoss7979 said:
This is your best bet, if your gonna have machine work already just have the shop do it and don't waste your time!
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Yeah the block will get machined at a (much ) later date , just want to get the rust off so I will not have to worry about rust pitting the cylinders, ect so bad that it won't clean up with the minimum machine work. I have already had to scrap a block because it was too rusty to save, and I don't want to scrap this one.So after using some of the methods you guys recommend, I will probably lightly hone the cylinders and lifter bores with a flex hone in drill and oil everything down put in heavy plastic bag for indoor storage.
 
Justin V said:
Muriatic acid, available at any hardware store, 7-10 bucks a gallon, get two, and a yard sprayer, the kind you would pump up yourself after filling, spray that acid in a fully open well ventilated area preferably on asphalt, cause the acid eats concrete, then wash with water and follow immediately with healthy doses of WD40.

Disclaimer: muriatic acid will eat your skin, eyes, lungs, clothes, any type of shiny metal, concrete, plant life, etc. But it kills rust as long as you follow with wd40 or similar after rinsing it off. Use at your own discretion.
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not to mention DON'T BREATHE THE FUMES!!! it WILL literally, suck the oxygen out of your lungs.... :deal: :doah: :haha:
 
Best way to "store" a bare block is to submerge it in a 55 gallon drum full enough of drain oil to cover it completely...you can use wheel bearing grease on the bores if that isn't an option,white lube or motor oil will not last and let it re-rust--I'd also put it in a cloth bag ,plastic bag will sweat and make a lot of condensation and make it rust up much worse in record time..
 
if your gonna have machine work already just have the shop do it and don't waste your time!" How do you know the block is any good? May need bored anyway? I had one that was already 40 over and needed bored. We went to .060.
 
rayfin said:
if your gonna have machine work already just have the shop do it and don't waste your time!" How do you know the block is any good? May need bored anyway? I had one that was already 40 over and needed bored. We went to .060.
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i like my engine parts to be rust free for storage , that is all.Machine shop around here is small outfit has hot tank only and hot tank not derust.Majority of rust is around main saddles , block looks good going to be rust free before magna flux I get sonic check before .060 over. Gonna get it blasted with steel shot and then clean 20 times. THANKS
 
Steel shot also is supposed to "relieve " the surface getting rid of stress risers where cracks can form.
 
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