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Diy4x D60 spring plates with shims

Mastiff

Mastiff

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I ordered some of the diy4x U-bolt plates for my front D60. These things are very heavy duty, but I'm also running some shims on the D60, which includes a top shim on the cast side. I'm wondering if anyone else has run this combination? I ask because it looks possible that the plate could be long compared to the shim and might bridge over it and not sit flush. I'd like some confirmation that it'll be okay before I tear into everything.
 
I ran into two annoying issues with my shims and ez inches on my build. Running the top shim to level out the spring plate and running the ez inches for 1.5" forward stretch, the spring pin wound up being too far rearward for the notch in the spring plate. This meant I had to extend the notch rearward another 3/4" so the stud/bolt holes would line up with the tapped cast perch. Second issue was that the centered hole on the top shim did not allow for a good fit using the 1.5" hole on the ez inches so I redrilled the top shim to get it fully under the spring plate instead of having half of it stick out with the stock centered hole.

I will post up a picture later this afternoon to show you what I am talking about. Pretty sure you would only have these issues using ez inches and not using the centered hole on the ez inches but it is evidently an issue that DIY4X is unaware of since I specifically asked about this combo before buying everything and they said there were no problems.
 
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truck-oholic said:
I ran into two annoying issues with my shims and ez inches on my build. Running the top shim to level out the spring plate and running the ez inches for 1.5" forward stretch, the spring pin wound up being too far rearward for the notch in the spring plate. This meant I had to extend the notch rearward another 3/4" so the stud/bolt holes would line up with the tapped cast perch. Second issue was that the centered hole on the top shim did not allow for a good fit using the 1.5" hole on the ez inches so I redrilled the top shim to get it fully under the spring plate instead of having half of it stick out with the stock centered hole.

I will post up a picture later this afternoon to show you what I am talking about. Pretty sure you would only have these issues using ez inches and not using the centered hole on the ez inches but it is evidently an issue that DIY4X is unaware of since I specifically asked about this combo before buying everything and they said there were no problems.
Click to expand...

I second this issue as I just did this today. I moved my axle another inch forward by putting my spring in the most forward hole of the b52's, so got some 4* shims so my front shaft wouldn't bind. Decided to try my ez inches with it at 1.5" forward (had them at 1" forward this whole time), but found on the passenger side, with DIY4x spring plates would not line up with the studs cast into the d60 housing. That along with the spring bolt would not fit into the "middle" elongated hole on the plate (would require making that hole bigger as shown in the pics above). Said screw it and just moved it back to 1" forward on the ez inches, and everything lines up fine.

Kurt, this may be something you want to look at as I was under the assumption too that it everything should work out just fine.
 
I can see what's happening.

with the EZ inch offset at 1.5" and some angle thrown in from shims, the top of the pin is pitched far enough forward to be beyond the slotted hole.

So a 10 degree shim is gona be more of an issue than a 4 degree shim would be. A thicker spring pack would also cause more issue than a thinner spring pack.

I'll look into make the slot longer. That's not hard to do. Making it so long as to effect the integrity of the spring plate is a concern.
 
cybrfire said:
I can see what's happening.

with the EZ inch offset at 1.5" and some angle thrown in from shims, the top of the pin is pitched far enough forward to be beyond the slotted hole.

So a 10 degree shim is gona be more of an issue than a 4 degree shim would be. A thicker spring pack would also cause more issue than a thinner spring pack.

I'll look into make the slot longer. That's not hard to do. Making it so long as to effect the integrity of the spring plate is a concern.
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Yes, you are right on point. If i remember correctly I am running 6 degree shims and the original rear 6 leaf spring pack minus overload. I may wind up losing the bottom leaf too which would help lessen the problem. I think the notch was off the width of the spring pin nut so like I said it was only 3/4" max and would only need to be longer in the rearward direction. I can't think of any reason that the pin could be going to the front that much. If I were you I would also go ahead and put the third stud hole in the passenger side plate so that way if anyone wants to drill and tap their perch for the extra stud/bolt like I did it is that much easier. More or less just a value added item for the customer. Overall, I am very happy with everything I have gotten from DIY4X even if there have been a couple hiccups here and there. You guys are top notch fabricators and your prices are very reasonable. On any project there are going to be inconveniences and setbacks and it is just part of the challenge. If it didn't require any ingenuity and creativeness then it would just be a JEEP.
 
Forgive the ignorance but why is an upper shim so important on the cast side? Because of the studs? Am I headed for disaster no running them? What about thick, angled washers under the nuts?

I run the 1" blocks with a 5* cut in them, pushed 1.5" forward. No other shims. Been like this for ~3 years but I guess that doesn't mean it's right.
 
K85 Octane said:
Forgive the ignorance but why is an upper shim so important on the cast side? Because of the studs? Am I headed for disaster no running them? What about thick, angled washers under the nuts?

I run the 1" blocks with a 5* cut in them, pushed 1.5" forward. No other shims. Been like this for ~3 years but I guess that doesn't mean it's right.
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Yeah, it's just because the studs can't rotate to match the angle of the springs the way u-bolts can, so when the nut is torqued, it'll try to bend them over. Seems to me that shimmed washers would be as good, and maybe better since the top plate could definitely get full contact with the spring top. Easier to put on after the fact too, since they don't have to get bolted to the spring pack.
 
The ubolt plate needs to be parallel to the cast housing for the two nuts on the cast side to sit flat and apply even pressure, the ubolt side is able to rotate freely when you shim it. The way you have it there is a slight gap under the two nuts and can break the studs because they are trying to straighten out due to the nuts trying to sit flat on the plate. So yes I would fix it.
 
I wonder if a vendor could make up some 3/8" long collars with a degree on one side. I would be able to remove the nuts and put the spacer between the nut and washer. That would allow the washer to make full contact with the U-bolt plate and the nut full contact with the collar.

Unless that just band aids it. I would want a 3.5" wide shim that sits under the U-bolt plate but also sits between the bolts. That way it doesn't spit out the side or back. I do like the bolted down shim too. Ugh PITA
 
Problem you'd run into with the collar or tapered washer is, it'd be pretty tough to keep them from rotating which would leave you tacking or welding them in place.

Haven't really had the chance to look at it, but the holes the bolts or studs are going through, with the washer method, you may hit a point where the bolt doesn't actually go through the hole due to it being at an angle in relation to the stud or bolt.
 
Hmmm, I'm thinking studs can get away with the angle far better than bolts. Seems bolt heads would want to pop off before studs/long nuts would.
 
Put it together tonight. I'd say it just barely fits. I have 4 degree shims. When I first set it on there, it appeared to have tons of space, but after torquing everything up, the plate is touching the spring on the skinny side of the shim. It appears to be making firm flush contact with the shim though, so I think I'm okay.

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I didn't think about it until they were installed, but these plates drop the contact point for the bumpstop by an inch or two. I'll have to gin up a way to extend the stop.
 
cybrfire said:
I'll look into make the slot longer. That's not hard to do. Making it so long as to effect the integrity of the spring plate is a concern.
Click to expand...

Would it be possible to weld an inch wide plate across the top in the middle so it's perpendicular to the springs to bring back the integrity? Or wouldn't there be enough clearance to get a socket on the nuts.

BTW Mastiff, love the white plates - might have to copy that.
 
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