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DIY4x inboard shock kit input/ideas needed

mrk5

The Sticker Guy
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Okay, I've decided to keep my axle located 4" back from stock and I'm trying to decide if I can still use the DIY4x inboard shock kit.

These are pics from Readymix's install:

ib16.JPG


ib12.JPG


Now looking at where the axle is in relation to the shock crossmember above, my axle is on the other side. So if Readymix's axle is forward of the shock crossmember, my axle is aft of the shock crossmember.

I'm wondering if I could put the shock tabs on the front of the axle tubes.

I was looking at locating the crossmember so that the shock tabs could be placed directly on top of the axle. The only issue I forsee there is that I may not have room to do that because it would be located in just about the same place as a set of body mounts.

Any thoughts or ideas would be appreciated.
 
only thing i can think of why not to would be spring wrap. could possibly bend a shock shaft if it was bad enough, but im pretty sure the u-joint would bind before that happened.
 
You still have a big flat piece of frame there to bolt to. You could mount the shock crossmember anywhere in that section of frame & be fine. :wink1: At least it looks like to me.

Later,
Buddy
 
Yeah you can move the top mount anywhere along there. I almost mounted mine a little more forward and put the shocks in the front like you are talking about. There was no real reason that I did it the way I did.

Now I just wish I had new pics up there. I finally got new shocks and a 14FF razorback cover. Looks real cool.
 
Well, I'm going to try and sell the kit and make something myself. I feel at this point that might be easier. If it doesn't sell, I'll try to make it work in a different location.

The thing that sucks about the K5s is the fuel lines are right there. And the closer I move towards the tank, the less "give" there is in the lines.
 
mrk5 said:
Well, I'm going to try and sell the kit and make something myself. I feel at this point that might be easier. If it doesn't sell, I'll try to make it work in a different location.

The thing that sucks about the K5s is the fuel lines are right there. And the closer I move towards the tank, the less "give" there is in the lines.

I've been sittin here think what to tell you to try but with the way the frame curves down in that region, I'm not coming up with a good solution.
 
Yeah, and we know how crazy those K5 frames can be.:wink1:

Pickup frames are so much more simple.
 
Why don't you take the time to fab up some shock mounts on the outside of the frame and stand the shocks up like they are supposed to be?

Laying them down takes away their effective rate and makes them work much harder than they need to.

It would be the same amount of work either way.
 
Not a bad idea. That's what I'm planning to do in the front anyways. Cool idea, I'll take a look at doing just that.

Especially since I just sold the kit I'd bought.
 
have the shocks in-boarded helps flex, because once the axle start to articulate the shocks become perpendicular to the axle. also allows for longer travel shocks to help w/ the longer droop of 56" springs. and if im wrong then i came up with a good amount of b/s:D
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
have the shocks in-boarded helps flex, because once the axle start to articulate the shocks become perpendicular to the axle. also allows for longer travel shocks to help w/ the longer droop of 56" springs. and if im wrong then i came up with a good amount of b/s:D

That's correct, but I don't think it's the best way to mount the shocks either. Shocks like to be as close to vertical as you can get them. I think the reason for this type of mount is to be able to use a longer travel shock that will still fit under the bed. We have blazers, we want for people to be able to sit in the backseat, so it's a compromise.

Personally, I want to figure out a way to outboard the shocks. If that means I have to cut a hole or pocket out of the bed/wheelwell in order to get it in there & working properly, then that's what I'll do. I think the added sway stability is worth that modification.

There are some jeepers out there that !!CUT THE FRAME!! to outboard their shocks. Anyone who's done that raves about how much better it works, but that is some real dedication in my book.

My .02,
Buddy
 
id go through the bed and mount them to a cage, but that means u gotta build a cage lol, and no more back seat.. bout like how the UA premudder in peterson's. and build a sheet metal box around them to protect the shocks from tools and spare parts bangin and clangin in the back.
 
iwaxmyjimmy said:
have the shocks in-boarded helps flex, because once the axle start to articulate the shocks become perpendicular to the axle. also allows for longer travel shocks to help w/ the longer droop of 56" springs. and if im wrong then i came up with a good amount of b/s:D

Good BS:D

Standing the shocks up as close to vertical as possible makes them achieve close to 100% of there effective damping ability.
Laying the shocks down is a way to get shorter shocks to work with longer travel suspensions.
If it were me I would buy a good 16" or so travel sway-away shock. Stand them as upright as possible outside the frame and call it good. A good shock standing up is going to make the vehicle handle much better in the long run.

Get the right shocks and they are re-buildable and you can work with the valving.:wink1:
 
miniwally said:
If it were me I would buy a good 16" or so travel sway-away shock. Stand them as upright as possible outside the frame and call it good. A good shock standing up is going to make the vehicle handle much better in the long run.

Get the right shocks and they are re-buildable and you can work with the valving.:wink1:

Here, hear!! Or is it, Here, here!! Maybe it's Hear, Hear!! Whatever, this is the right answer. "miniwally, it's you're choice for the next question" "Alex, I'd like to choose lifted blazer shock geometry for 1000.00 please."

Do-dee do-doo do-dee do,
Buddy
 
Yeah, I hate it when Brandon comes on here and posts something that makes sense! :doah: :rotfl:
 
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