CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

DIY4X Inboarding vs. Fuel Lines

BGKYK5

3/4 ton status
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Nov 1, 2006
Posts
5,931
Reaction score
10
Location
on the crapper...
Any tips or pics on relocating the fuel and brakes lines to make room for the DIY4X rear shock inboarding kit?
 
humm i have the kit as well and i havent even looked under there yet ill be watching this thread
 
I rolled my own, back before Kert had his kit ... like I did my own rear hangers for the front springs, the front hangers for 52"s, etc etc. I'd wonder if he's watching my build for ideas, except of course I'm not alone :haha:

Anyway, the brake line should end and go down to the axle forward of the point where the shock bracket would go, least it does on mine.

Fuel line ... huh. I'm not motivated to go out in the heat and look, but IIRC, the fuel lines are all the way inside the frame rail, at least on my '74 (i.e. carbed -- you newfangled TBI guys may be different.)

Ahh, I see. Kert's bracket goes all the way across. Mine's just hefty angle iron, so it's a bit short on the outer edges, making space for the lines.

Hard to gauge height, but I betcha you'd just bend the fuel lines up, so that they go over his bracket, just brushing the inside top of the frame, if that makes sense.

-- A
 
It has been a few years since I installed mine, but the fuel lines are definitely in the way. Iirc there is like 3 or 4 lines, some fuel and a brake line or something. Anyways I found a very easy fix, maybe not visually appealing but who is really looking at the inside of the frame rail anyways? I unbolted one of the clamps to allow the lines to move a little bit. Then I installed the inboard kit. To keep the lines protected where they rubbed the inboard kit and where I unbolted a clamp, I simply took some 3/8" air hose (from an air compressor) and cut a slit down it (i kind of opened it up like a hotdog bun so it can go around the hard metal lines) then I cut the pieces of air hose to the length that I needed to cover the 3 or 4 lines. I put the air hose around the lines and then simply used some plastic zip ties to secure the air hose over the lines. It doesnt look pretty (but it doesnt look bad either) but it is effective. Like i said earlier, I did this a few years back and have had no problems whatsoever with the lines. It was kind of tedious but nonetheless it was a simple and cheap solution to the problem. It was easier to do this than it was to flex the truck out multiple times and measure what length shocks i needed. Hope this helps.
-Harrison
 
Thanks Harrison I may do the same. They will definitely need some tweaking though. Yes, there are 4 lines in the way; Fuel Out, Fuel In, Charcoal Canister, and Rear Brakes IIRC. The rear brake line may be able to go under the main beam of the inboading kit but above the frame. The rest will probably all have to angle out from the frame and go over the inboarding kit between it and the body. Any body else got a slick way to do it?
 
That was just the easiest way I saw to do it. If I was anywhere near my truck (im 2 hours away) then I would snap a pic for ya to show you how i re-routed the lines. You kind of just have to mess with it and once your down there youll see where they have to go. But the air hose trick has been working fine for me for a long time.
-Harrison
 
Here is what I did - basically what Harrison suggested.

Rubber fuel line over the hard lines with zip ties to keep everything nice and snug.

P1010020.JPG

Plenty of room for the wires on the driver's side.

P1010021.JPG

P1010020.JPG

P1010021.JPG
 
Top Bottom