blazin_blazer
1/2 ton status
1)- I understand the flip and switch concept, to swap sides w/ the DIY4X brackets and it lets you replace your 52'' springs for 56''er's for more articulation.
I have been saving parts and stuff to build up my k5(AGAIN...LOL)(which has 52'' rear springs) I've been collecting parts for a couple of years now, but I recently found a 3/4 ton CC, which of course has the 56'' springs out back. I have already bought my lift(52''-12'' swamp runners, they were kinda expensive, so I don't want to have to buy another set of rear springs) and I have bought kerts shackle flip also, to do away w/ the 4'' block on the rear 12'' lift. this is a 100% mud truck, runs the bogs on saturdays and gets driven around town a little bit throughout the week.
I have yet to start putting any of this stuff together, which is good in a way, b/c now I want to build up the CC.(you guys and all your badazz CC pics
....
) I want to make it a CC swb, and w/ 12'' of lift, I think I can just slide the axle hangers forward and chop off the rear and still have plenty of room between the axle and frame, and if this is the case, I think I should be able to make the shackle flip work regardless. if I have to take a section out of the middle of the frame so be it, I've done that before.
but then that leaves me w/ using the 52'' springs in place of the 56'' springs w/ kerts flip & switch...basically, can I still use my 52'' lift springs on the CC by swapping sides w/ kerts flip? instead of swapping sides to put 56'' springs where 52's were, swap sides of flip to mount my 52'' lift springs where the 56''er's are? any info greatly appreciated?
2)- I searched but found nothing, but I have an idea...since I bought ruff stuff's rear perches, u-bolts, & spring plates to put my 14bff in the k5....I was looking at my spring plates while cleaning them up and painting them, and an idea popped in my head.
can you weld a piece of 3/8'' or 1/2'' plate standing up in the middle of the spring plates, sort of like a "shark fin", parallel w/ frame, w/ a hole drilled in the top. Then use a piece of cable w/ clevis end on it to hook to "shark fin" and run the cable w/ a little slack in it, to a longer than stock front spring eye bolt on rear spring, w/ the cable attached to the bolt w/ an eye and a second "jamb" nut holding the cable to the bolt.
Then when axle tries to wrap, it would pull on the cable and stop the axle wrap. The "shark fin" could also double as a bump stop. would this work? has anyone tried it? and how much would it restrict my axle droop? i'm running a 12'' lift, so i have alot of space between the spring plate and the frame, but I need the axle droop in the mud pit on saturdays. so if it takes away alot of droop, i need to find a different way to control axle wrap w/o having much of anything hanging down and still get full droop. thanks for any and all help, ideas, comments and replies! everything is still in planning mode, so please post up.
I have been saving parts and stuff to build up my k5(AGAIN...LOL)(which has 52'' rear springs) I've been collecting parts for a couple of years now, but I recently found a 3/4 ton CC, which of course has the 56'' springs out back. I have already bought my lift(52''-12'' swamp runners, they were kinda expensive, so I don't want to have to buy another set of rear springs) and I have bought kerts shackle flip also, to do away w/ the 4'' block on the rear 12'' lift. this is a 100% mud truck, runs the bogs on saturdays and gets driven around town a little bit throughout the week.
I have yet to start putting any of this stuff together, which is good in a way, b/c now I want to build up the CC.(you guys and all your badazz CC pics
....) I want to make it a CC swb, and w/ 12'' of lift, I think I can just slide the axle hangers forward and chop off the rear and still have plenty of room between the axle and frame, and if this is the case, I think I should be able to make the shackle flip work regardless. if I have to take a section out of the middle of the frame so be it, I've done that before. but then that leaves me w/ using the 52'' springs in place of the 56'' springs w/ kerts flip & switch...basically, can I still use my 52'' lift springs on the CC by swapping sides w/ kerts flip? instead of swapping sides to put 56'' springs where 52's were, swap sides of flip to mount my 52'' lift springs where the 56''er's are? any info greatly appreciated?
2)- I searched but found nothing, but I have an idea...since I bought ruff stuff's rear perches, u-bolts, & spring plates to put my 14bff in the k5....I was looking at my spring plates while cleaning them up and painting them, and an idea popped in my head.
can you weld a piece of 3/8'' or 1/2'' plate standing up in the middle of the spring plates, sort of like a "shark fin", parallel w/ frame, w/ a hole drilled in the top. Then use a piece of cable w/ clevis end on it to hook to "shark fin" and run the cable w/ a little slack in it, to a longer than stock front spring eye bolt on rear spring, w/ the cable attached to the bolt w/ an eye and a second "jamb" nut holding the cable to the bolt.
Then when axle tries to wrap, it would pull on the cable and stop the axle wrap. The "shark fin" could also double as a bump stop. would this work? has anyone tried it? and how much would it restrict my axle droop? i'm running a 12'' lift, so i have alot of space between the spring plate and the frame, but I need the axle droop in the mud pit on saturdays. so if it takes away alot of droop, i need to find a different way to control axle wrap w/o having much of anything hanging down and still get full droop. thanks for any and all help, ideas, comments and replies! everything is still in planning mode, so please post up.
