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Do you have to...........?

Uncle Fester

1/2 ton status
Joined
Mar 23, 2006
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Cheyenne
Hey all,
If you have followed my various posts, then you know I am now running 35" tires on 10bolt front/12 bolt rear axles. This has got me thinking about my next MAJOR upgrade, read next fall/winter, and I was wondering a few things about converting to 1 ton axles.
First, I want to use a Dana-60 front, 14 bolt or Dana-70 rear axle, 4.10 gears, Disc front/drum rear brakes. What should I look for as a donnor truck? I plan to buy a used truck to salvage the parts off of....
Next, I keep reading about changing to cross over steering, is that required on a swap like this?
Plans for the truck include a 2" lift at most & 35" or 36" tires at most. It will be used as a daily driver, and weekend off roader...doing Ghost Town exploring, following the OUTLAW TRAIL and things like that.
 
A K-30? I thought I wanted to get the axles from a 3/4 ton so that I did not have to move the spring perches....am I wrong? What about cross over steering? is it required on this swap? Thanks again
 
Well, You said 1 ton!:haha: I think your donor is over on Pirate.com classifieds IIRC for $800.:D You don't have to do crossover. A 4" lift will be much better for 35 or 36" tires.
 
Okay,
Maybe I should have said "Full Floater" axles! lol, my bad there! I want full floater axles and 1/2 ton springs.
As to the lift, I know that a 4" would be best, IF the sheet metal was stock, but mine is trimmed to the point I can now fit 38"s with out rubbing and I have NO LIFT right now! So in my case a 2" will be fine.
Anyway, time to start cutting:hack: , welding:weld: , and grinding :grind: on my :burb: !
 
If your only going 35", why not just go 3/4?

anyway, a 60 will be in a K30.. the 14bff from a K30 will need to have the spring perches moved..

If you get a 14bff out of a 3/4 ton, it will bolt right up...
 
If you are not going any bigger and not running anything crazy, just run the 10b's. A 60 and 14bff will cut your clearance, add weight, be expensive and are probably not necessary.

If you just want to strengthen up a little, get a 14bsf fom a 3/4 ton and call it good.
 
cbbr said:
If you are not going any bigger and not running anything crazy, just run the 10b's. A 60 and 14bff will cut your clearance, add weight, be expensive and are probably not necessary.

If you just want to strengthen up a little, get a 14bsf fom a 3/4 ton and call it good.
any differen
 
Uncle Fester said:
Okay,
Maybe I should have said "Full Floater" axles! lol, my bad there! I want full floater axles and 1/2 ton springs.
As to the lift, I know that a 4" would be best, IF the sheet metal was stock, but mine is trimmed to the point I can now fit 38"s with out rubbing and I have NO LIFT right now! So in my case a 2" will be fine.
Anyway, time to start cutting:hack: , welding:weld: , and grinding :grind: on my :burb: !
Well its not gonna matter what front axle you get cause all the fronts are full floaters. If your just running 35's and doing only light wheeling, there is really no need for a D60. A 10B should be fine. You can get a 14ff from a 1-ton gm truck, and even some 3/4 tons had them. If you get one from a 1-ton, the spring perches will have to be moved out 1" on each side....you will also have to re-locate the shock mounts. If you get it from a 3/4 ton truck, everything will be in the right place.

Oh, and 38's may not rub now on no lift, but 2" with 35's may rub if you flex it out real good offroad.
-Harrison
 

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