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Dodge Transmission Overheating.

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buff_dog70

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Looking for help on a Dodge, if I can get some.
I have a 2006 Dodge Ram 2500 Mega Cab 4X4 with Cummins Engine, Automatic [COLOR=#0072bc !important][COLOR=#0072bc !important]Transmission[/COLOR][/COLOR]

. The rear differential is 3.73 gears. I have about 55,000 miles on my truck. I work my truck hard either towing my 38' foot 5th wheel 13,000 lbs, or my bumper pull flat bed. Twice I overheated the transmission, (idiot light on dash came on). This has only happen when towing a load. It occurred when I had about 36,000 miles on the truck, and was usually going up steep hill, for extend period time, 4 wheel drive engaged (on dirt, in snow). I changed the AT fluid and the filter after each incident, and then upgraded the stock transmission pan to a double deep Mag-Hytec pan, and installed a trans temp guage which was mounted in the pan. Last week when towing hard, coming down a steep grade, for a long distance, (had the engine exhaust brake on, in 1st gear) the transmission overheated again. The trans temp gauge was running about 200 F when the idiot light came on the dash. I believe it comes on at about 275 F to 285 F. What more can I do to keep my transmission cool, when I'm working my [COLOR=#0072bc !important][COLOR=#0072bc !important]truck[/COLOR][/COLOR] hard.

Should I install an fan driven after market cooler (heard they can cause problems with pressure drops when adding the cooler to the system)?
I also was planning on switching from 3.73 to 4.10 differential gears.
Also where can I easily move the temp gauge transducer to get a more accurate temperature coming out of the torque converter?
 
Changing to a steeper gear might help lessen the load on the torque converter. The factory temp switch is located on a solenoid block in the trans and gives pan fluid temp, it is also a little premature in some cases to throw an overheat light on as we have noticed from experience. My advice would be to switch to a torque converter with a modified purpose cast stator that will give you a lower stall speed. A good stator should also have an improved sprag design which is a weakness of the stock converter. In addition, you should order the converter with a billet cover as your clutch may already be slipping and adding to the heat problem. This will go a long way in keeping your trans cooler. The factory radiator on the Big Dodge has a good cooler in it and the auxiliary cooler is also quite large, you shouldn't need to add another, just keep the one you have clean of bugs and debris.
 
I'm no expert but I wonder if there's something else going on here... 13,000 pounds is a good load but for an '06 cummins you shouldn't be having any problems. I regularly get my trans to 220* on really steep pulls (my probe is in the high pressure port though, not in the pan) so maybe look into the idiot light. If it's kicking on when your new gauge reads 200* I'd say that's a little premature.
For 13,000 pounds on a steep, long climb 200* is ok.

Oh, and what fluid are you running? I have a friend with an F350 Diesel dually and he said his trans temps dropped significantly when he switched to full synthetic in the trans. He changes it yearly.
 
Yeah, something is up with your dash warning light. Are you sure your guage you installed is accurate? If so 200* is fine. I also have an '06 mega cab and I've never seen the light come on, stock tranny and 400+HP when towing.
 
Ok, I'm gonna put my experience in and then hijack a bit that may help all of us.

I have an 06 2500 quad cab with the cummins. 3.73's But I am on 37's. Truck has about 165k on it and a remanufactured trans from dodge was installed by the previous owner around 140k. I have the Edge programmer and monitor which is where I read trans temp. and it uses the stock sending unit in the pan so it must be the same voltage as what the ECU sees?!?! I have seen 219* towing about 10k lbs. But the 37's are really throwing things off with the gearing.

I really think the auto in these trucks sucks down a lot of that power. When the torque convertor locks it feels like a WHOLE different truck and pulls like a champ. My problem is that with the bigger tires the torque convertor locks in overdrive and the rpms get way too low around 60-75. EGTs get real high and motor is pulled down too much. I can keep it out of overdrive and in 3rd with the TC locked it pulls like a champ but just can't be goin 70mph. Motor isn't happy with a loaded trailer unless your doin 80-85 and thats just scary.

You hear a lot of people bitch about the torque convertor and I totaly agree. Theres a huge difference in engine RPM when the torque convertor locks because its so inefficient. It also "slips" a lot in 1st and second and needs a lot of RPM and time to get movin.

I really think with gears and a better TC it would make a world of difference in my truck at least. OR stock size tires and wheels, no lift and still needs a better TC imo. I really plan on the regear first and maybe the TC after. All depends on when I win the mega millions.

My questions for yall are this...

1) what temp is the idiot light supposed to come on? (ive never seen it)
2) Am I the only one who thinks the stall is way too high or theres serious inefficencies in the stock convertor? or is it my 37s?
3) What temps are "safe" for extended periods of time in the trans (stock sending unit location)?
4) Where's you money best spent and in what order upgrading the trans?
5) your $0.02 on all of this
 
1) what temp is the idiot light supposed to come on? (ive never seen it)
From everything I have read it will come on over 230 degrees, at 260 degrees the computer will not allow 4th gear and will not reapply 4th gear till you get back under 230 degrees.
2) Am I the only one who thinks the stall is way too high or theres serious inefficencies in the stock convertor? It could be better for sure, especially with a tire and gear combo like yours which makes it even harder on the converter to multiply torque. Lower stall stators are available which make the converter much more efficient and cooler running.
3) What temps are "safe" for extended periods of time in the trans (stock sending unit location)?
Anything below 210 should be ok with synthetic fluids, the cooler the better of course
4) Where's you money best spent and in what order upgrading the trans?
A good, lower stall billet cover converter with improved clutch will do much for the driveability and longevity of the trans and vehicle. Your trans already has the best planetary gear sets and improved valave body and pump design, but an aftermarket shift improvement kit can make it even better increasing operating pressure and lube flow.
5) your $0.02 on all of this
See above:D
 
Thanks for the reply. Regear would be about the same $$ as a billet TC but lots more labor. Still leaning towards the re-gear first.
 
Nightmare Before X-mas $$$$

Well,
I did a filter and fluid change on the transmission. Drained the pan, removed the pan, swapped the filter, replaced the pan, filled the pan with new ATF 4, and removed transcooler return line to the transmission, jacked up the rear tires, and turned over the engine to with the trans in gear to flush out the torque converter.
Got alot of dark trans fluid and a small hand full of chips from the trans filter and the bottom of the pan.
Took chips to trans shop and also talked to PATC performance transmissions. Local trans shop says I'm due for trans failure soon. Believes the bronze looking chips is a washer that sits between the planetary gear and the ring gear and just a matter of time before I start rubbing steel on steel. Looking for a quote but probably looking at a $3000-$4000 fix with upgrade of the transmission with a billet torque converter (similar to the Level 4 Ramzilla on PATC site). What a shocker, on top of that I'm thinking of swapping out differentials from from 3.73 to 4.10 probably cost $900 for the Yukon sets from Randy's Ring and Pinion plus another $300 to $500 per axle for labor if I have somebody else install. I ordered how to build a differential from Smartflix might try this one myself to save some money. Still want to haul heavy, but don't want to keep buying transmissions (this one only had 55K).
 
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