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Does anybody else not trust or like push button 4x4

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I've got this 99 suburban and it wont come out of 4-Lo and the service 4x4 light came on. I feel helpless pushing that damn button about a million times and rocking drive and reverse. It finally came out but now I'm concerned about putting it back into 4 wheel drive at all. I just don't like the push a button thing, no sir not one bit.
 
I personally prefer electric shift in a dd. it sounds like your shifter fork pads and or other associated parts are getting worn out.

One of my duramaxs wouldn't come out of low range one time, we finally got it out after manually shifting it. I drove the next winter usin 4 high a bunch and never had a problem, just didn't use low.
 
I'll stick with a manual shifted T-case if I can help it...seen far to many of the "push-button" ones fail to go in 4wd or come back out after the truck hasn't been used in 4wd for months--and those shift motors and switches aren't cheap..sometimes its a wiring problem or some module too,which costs a lot to diagnose and fix...just another example of fancy crap we dont need,that craps out far too often..
 
I understand what you are saying!
But one thing that I like about the electric 4WD is the auto option that GM has on some models. It's handy on snowpack streets!!
But my local dealer has some 2016 1/2 ton trucks with a fair amount of options AND a manual shift t-case!
So the only failure point would be the front axle actuator??
 
That front axle actuator seems to be a likely and familiar culprit.

Sound like a SAS candidate
 
I drive a 2008 Silverado with a manual shift transfer case. Shifts super smooth.

I also use to have a lifted 1500 sierra with push button 4x4, seemed to struggle to get it in 4x4 when the truck had a lot of drive tension on it, but then again a manual shift would be hard to shift too
 
My electric tcase in my Dodge is finicky. I can't complain as I've put it in 4wd probably 5 times since new ('06). The last time I used it, 4wd engaged but didn't want to disengage.

I would think there's a decent niche market waiting/wanting manual shift conversion kits. I'd be on that like stink on poop.
 
My 15 GMC gets shifted in and out of 4HI hundreds of times per winter. The auto feature I don't care for, it's a little slow to react, then crunchy when it does. I'd prefer an AWD option over the "Auto" feature. Anyways, mine shifts super smooth, never had an issue in or out. There was a recall with some not wanting to engage or disengage in cold weather. I had the work done, but never had a single issue. I think it's like anything mechanical, if it has moving parts it can and will break. I do appreciate the leg room not having the manual lever provides. I've had myself plus 5 others in my pick-up, with no complaints.

I suspect if it's something that doesn't get used often it can get sticky and cranky. Not really an issue here where we have snow on the ground 4-6 months a year.
 
You have to shift the electric stuff regularly to keep it in good shape. I've had a 99 suburban, a 00 Blazer and now a 2007 Xterra that have electric shift and had no issues as of yet. My yard is anything but flat so using 4x4 is a common thing and my systems are always getting put in and out of 4x4. Driving forward or backwards a bit can help too.
 
my s-i-l is having problems with his second shift solenoid since he bought his '02 Silverado 6 years ago. The t-case was rebuilt when he bought it.

I never did care for them myself, I'd pick a mechanical linkage any day.
 
Never had any trouble with the auto switches on any of our Chevys.
Did shift smoother on the real cold days after I put synthetic lube in the front diff of my Duramax.

I actually like the push button 4x4
 
only issue I ever had was year ago on my MIL's S10 blazer. It was rarely if ever used so that may have been why it was an issue.
 
I had to put a shift motor on My 2005 Suburban, it is a very common issue with the 246/263 GM transfer case. I would prefer a manual shift but I wouldn't give up my full length console for one, puss that I am.
 
It's one of those cases of introducing a failure point for the sake of convenience. People didn't like getting out of their cars to lock their hubs (can't blame them on that one) so auto-locking hubs and axle connect/disconnect systems were devised. People didn't want to mess with jerking a lever around, so solenoids to shift the t-case were invented. Modern conveniences tend to get more reliable over time, but anytime you have a machine or mechanism that does a job for you, at some point it can and will fail.
 
I won't buy a rig unless it's a manual shift case, but I'm also not willing to pay an extra 30,000 for leather seats and doodads on a otherwise identical truck
 
For sending the wife out on winter streets, I think the pushbutton and "auto" is great. I was sure to get one with 2/Auto/4HI/4LO for that reason. If you don't like auto, you don't have to use it. GM does offer AWD transfer cases, but the Denali's I've seen are full-time AWD with no low range and poor fuel economy. I never have issues shifting between 2 and 4, but you need to be in nuetral to go between H and L. If your actuator sensor is worn, you may need to roll the vehicle a bit while shifting.

There is always the short term fix of removing the actuator and shifting the case with a set of channel-locks or pliers. The shift shaft protrudes outside the case and has on oil seal on it, so it's fine to drive around without the actuator. 2H and 4L are easy to find, YMMV finding the others.

A lot of the so-called actuator failures are really sensor failures. The output of the actuator has a little resistive track sensor (potentiometer, really) that tells it the current position of the shift shaft. After enough miles the tracks wear away at the point the brushes sit all the time (i.e. in 2H) util the signal is wrong and the thing can't shift to the right position anymore. Dorman sells the sensor for like $30 and you're back to normal shifting.

In some ways, the actuator is better than the shift lever. Body/frame flex has no effect and you can't have a misadjusted linkage wear out your shift forks prematurely. I'm sure a big part of it for the OEMs is packaging. Now there's no hole in the floor to line up and seal and they can put center consoles in. But overall, yeah, I prefer the "grip it and rip it" setup.
 
I don't mind it. Its actually quite nice. I was on a washed out road hauling a trailer, when another car came from the other direction. I got as far to the right as i could, rear tires started spinning as the trailer was being sucked into the ditch. Hit the button and pulled myself out no issues.
 
As far as your actual problem goes, there are a few causes:

1. The primary failure is the transfer case shift position sensor. It's easy enough to access without removing the t-case from the truck. The original sensors have a tendency to fail on the outer reaches of the rotation range (aka 4 low).
2. There is updated software for the transfer case control module which has the t-case shift motor stop a couple counts short of the original end ranges of travel. If the shift motor goes too far, the TCCM loses track of where the shift motor is and will set the service 4wd light and stop in place. If you have this issue, remove the shift motor and shift the t-case into 2wd manually with a screw driver. When you start the truck again, the sensor and motor will be back into sensing range and will work again.
3. Less common, but still an issue is the push button module failing in the dash. I've seen this a couple times though.

I've changed the position sensor on my father's 03 Duramax and on my older 03 Tahoe. I've updated both TCCMs with the new calibration with my Tech 2 and never had another issue with either again. Both of them got stuck in 4lo like your's did.
 
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