Does anyone make a door hinge....

[K85 Octane]

that uses a regular bolt instead of the pin and bushing set up?

I'm looking to swap my doors out for tube doors...and back again. I've already done the hitch pin mod. Even with new bushings and pins my doors still "move" when grabbed at the bottom and pulled up. I can see the hinges move. This causes the doors to not close well. I screw around with it and for about 3 door cycles it's fine, then goes to crap again.

I want to drill out the holes to fit a bolt down through. I will be using a long shank bolt and nylon lock nut. It will not be tightened down, just put in to do the pin's job. Seems easy to me, lube it once in a while, and be happy. BUT, it doesn't look like there is enough material to drill out both halves. Not sure, but this is something I'm going to start working on.

 

[cybrfire]

On my blazer, we did a mod quite some time ago where the hinge pin was removed in favor of a "quick" pull pin. Hinges had to be drilled out and welded some bushing in to increase the surface area of the hinge itself.

Never really did work that great as a quick pull pin though.

 

[K85 Octane]

Well, I hate the way my doors close. The pins and bushings are brand new but there is still slop in the door side hinge. The hole to be precise. I think a long shank bolt with a nut would be easier than dealing with these hitch pins AND let me tighten up the clearances for a better feeling door action.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Maybe your door side of the hinge is damaged causing your issue?

 

[wasted wages]

also look for cracks in the sheetmetal around the hinges on both the door and the cab.....I have seen cracks behind the mounting plates of the hinges cause this...

 

[Fordum]

If you have not heard of them, look into stripper bolts. I ran into them while consulting for a tool and die shop, and have found many uses for them since.

This link calls them shoulder bolts, but stripper bolts will bring up more hits. I used this link because it had the best pictures of what one looks like.
http://www.boltdepot.com/Shoulder_bolts.aspx

They make good pivot pins, and things like that. You have to get the unthreaded part the right length, but they have a lot of different sizes.

Not only do you not have to work with trying to pivot on threads, but if everything is right, you can tighten it up good and hard without compressing the hinge.

I have sometimes put a washer under the head to adjust the length so that the nut hits in the right place.

 

[Deuling]

I think its time for some DIY4X door hinges to be designed and built.......

 

[runamok151]

Well, I hate the way my doors close. The pins and bushings are brand new but there is still slop in the door side hinge. The hole to be precise. I think a long shank bolt with a nut would be easier than dealing with these hitch pins AND let me tighten up the clearances for a better feeling door action.

i have a friend who did exactly that on his bronco. he likes full doors for running around the neighborhood and he puts on some half doors when he goes on wheeling trips. he used a 4 1/2" long 3/8" bolt (i think the hinges on k5s are wider so you might need a longer bolt). he cut off the threads and drilled a little hole across the end of the bolt to accept a small hitch pin (or cotter pin). he installed new brass bushings and drilled them out for a tight fit.

i've been wheeling w/ him a few times w/ the half door on. i've never noticed that the door sags or doesn't hit the striker right, so i don't think he has a problem w/ the door sagging.

here's a few pics from his build on another site.

 

[diesel4me]

One truck I fixed that had a junk door hinge,I put a used hinge I had on it ,but instead of using the regular bushings and pins the factory used,I brazed a valve guide (from a small block chevy head!) in place of the two bushings--it was 3/8" inside diameter,so a 3/8" bolt fit perfect in it...the added length adds strength and more wear surface,and the guide is less likely to "egg out" like stock bushings..

 

[imiceman44]

If your problem is a lose fitting door, going to bots will only make it worse.
The only way a door is stiff enough to be adjusted once and work right for a long time is to have very tight fitting pins.
So to have quick release and tight fit doesn't work.
Unless you design something that works completely different.

that uses a regular bolt instead of the pin and bushing set up?

I'm looking to swap my doors out for tube doors...and back again. I've already done the hitch pin mod. Even with new bushings and pins my doors still "move" when grabbed at the bottom and pulled up. I can see the hinges move. This causes the doors to not close well. I screw around with it and for about 3 door cycles it's fine, then goes to crap again.

I want to drill out the holes to fit a bolt down through. I will be using a long shank bolt and nylon lock nut. It will not be tightened down, just put in to do the pin's job. Seems easy to me, lube it once in a while, and be happy. BUT, it doesn't look like there is enough material to drill out both halves. Not sure, but this is something I'm going to start working on.

 

[80' 427]

I was thinking of just rebuilding the hinge so it is tight and pulling the bolts. 6 bolts would only take a few min esp with help and a cordless impact.

 

[Fordum]

Having a removable pin or bolt and still having it perfectly tight is doable. Its been done many times before for other applications.
One of the easiest ways is double taper sleeves.

A couple of bronze bushings top and bottom with tapered holes and some polished steel sleeves that fit the bolt tightly and are tapered at the same taper as the inside of the bronze sleeve.

You would have to use either a lock nut or two nuts to adjust the tension, because they could not tighten all the way up.
But any slop can be taken out by a slight turn of the nut.
The top steel sleeve next to the head of the bolt can be a press fit on the bolt, while the bottom has to be a tight slip fit.
Some method of keeping the bottom from turning on the bolt but still allowing it to slide up and down would be best, so that there is no wear there.

If you go with removable hinges, consider doweling them.
This is another trick used in the tool and die shop to very precisely locate parts on a die.
The parts are mounted on the die block with bolts, very carefully positioned, and then holes are drilled down through the parts and into the base block.
These holes are then reamed to a very exact size and then a hardened steel dowel is pressed in.
This prevents any possible movement.
Since these parts have to be located to a tolerance better than .0001 of an inch in some cases this is the only way to assure it stays where it is placed.

You could put a thick backing plate in the door or frame, mount the door and get it adjusted right.
Then mark and drill a couple of holes.
Remove the hinge, and press a couple of hard dowels into the backing plate. Then ream the holes in the hinge plate a couple of thousands larger so that the dowels are a tight slip fit.
You would still have the bolts on the other side of the hinge for adjustment, but if you removed the dowel side, the hinge would be exactly correct when you put it back on.