I found a 1998 Vortec 350 w/102K miles. Supposed to run good but does have a slight tick. Guy wants $200 for it and I would expect to tear it down and fix what ever is wrong if not do a re-ring and new bearings while I'm at it.
CK5
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Does this sound like a resonable price? Vortec 350...
- Thread starter kennyw
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redneckdude
1/2 ton status
just the motor? no wiring or pcm or the related? i picked up a 5.3 in good shape with a 2wd 60e and full wiring harness and pcm for 500$...81K miles on the motor.
3car
1/2 ton status
if you are going to rebuild anyway. good price. i'd buy it. 
3car
1/2 ton status
and? dime a dozen.
Speaking from recent experience, make sure the heads aren't cracked, preferably before you buy it.
It seems that overheating the engine almost certainly guarantees that they crack. Luckily my friend bought the heads from a decent guy, who refunded his money when they figured out they were cracked. As I recall it was in the chamber, off the exhaust valve(?). It was plainly obvious.
It seems that overheating the engine almost certainly guarantees that they crack. Luckily my friend bought the heads from a decent guy, who refunded his money when they figured out they were cracked. As I recall it was in the chamber, off the exhaust valve(?). It was plainly obvious.
Just a complete motor from Throttle body to oil pan, no accessories or wiring. $200 seems reasonable for a complete vortec 350 motor as a core to me, but the thing has been for sale for several weeks and not yet sold too (started out at $350 then he dropped the price to $200 firm). I will definitly be pulling the pan, intake and heads to inspect it before buying.
I've got a Vortec core (same one the heads came from) sitting in my garage, I have not yet gotten around to rolling it over and checking that the cylinders aren't cracked. I've known someone to spend a lot of time and money putting an engine together, even had it magnafluxed, only to find a small crack once coolant went in it.
The bores do look very good, I just read an article the other day talking about the newer fuel injected motors, comment was that since fuel management is so good on these, the cylinders are usually in very good shape and need at most to simply hone to be back in business.
Slight tick could be the lifter(s), since they are roller they (one or more) might be a bit much to replace, and I don't believe flat tappets are a drop in. Might be a way to run them, but I would think even one bad roller lifter should halve the price of a core.
I think that's a good deal if the heads are in good shape, I paid I believe $150 for this block (complete other than heads/intake), and the guy got $150 for the heads before he returned the money.
The bores do look very good, I just read an article the other day talking about the newer fuel injected motors, comment was that since fuel management is so good on these, the cylinders are usually in very good shape and need at most to simply hone to be back in business.
Slight tick could be the lifter(s), since they are roller they (one or more) might be a bit much to replace, and I don't believe flat tappets are a drop in. Might be a way to run them, but I would think even one bad roller lifter should halve the price of a core.
I think that's a good deal if the heads are in good shape, I paid I believe $150 for this block (complete other than heads/intake), and the guy got $150 for the heads before he returned the money.
I'm looking to replace a 1991 TBI 350 with 180k on it so the roller lifters and better heads of the Vortec motor seem like a better start than simply rebuilding the original motor. Plus I can keep the truck on the road during the rebuild and only be down for a weekend or two when I do the swap rather than the whole winter.
Not to be condescending, I know you deal in all sorts of this stuff, you've kept abreast of all the problems in putting a Vortec headed engine under TBI, right?
Obviously as a "spare" you'd have all the time in the world to make it work, it's just a pain, and added expense.
I think the Vortec engines are great, I guess with the right purchase price/motor, the additional expenses won't be that bad in the end.
Obviously as a "spare" you'd have all the time in the world to make it work, it's just a pain, and added expense.
I think the Vortec engines are great, I guess with the right purchase price/motor, the additional expenses won't be that bad in the end.
I have not completely researched it, but I'd have time to work around the issues... My other option is dropping in a stock 6.5L turbo diesel as well though. I'm not in any rush to buy this motor, just starting to put some #'s in my head of what my options will cost mainly.
55Willy
3/4 ton status
the heads alone make it worth it's price.
3car
1/2 ton status
stay with the vortec. just be aware theres a few things involved. Intake, larger tbi. custom prom, ect. once its right, you wont regret it though.
The $200 price is decent. Are you looking to run the 98 injection or the 91 injection? This will make a big difference in price and legality of the swap.
SHAPER
Registered Member
Where 99% of us live it doesn't... but in CA you can run newer equipment not older (like running a carb on a TBI motor) but it all has to match the same year emissions package.
My thoughts for the Vortec motor are to run a 454 Throttle body, setup my laptop to burn my own prom, Edelbrock intake is $350 on Summit... The truck this is for runs good now with 180K miles so I'd have time to round everything up before a swap.
Thanks for the input.
Thanks for the input.
Well sounds like you aren't going to run the vortec injection. IMHO there is nothing special about the vortec engine (other than roller cam which will definately make more power) over your 91 engine if you're going to run the 91 style TBI. The vortec heads do flow a little bit better but the first glance of running on the warmer side of "normal" and those heads crack like fine china. I guess what i'm saying is if it were me i would buy the engine (solely because of the roller cam) but sell the heads and use your heads which saves you money AND makes you money all at the same time.
redneckdude
1/2 ton status
and its a newer motor with less miles, more power, more potential, and totally complete and didn't need a rebuild...
I think I'd look into getting a carbed intake and the TBI adapter plate. SHOULD be cheaper than $350. I'm guessing that's an "EGR" intake that you don't really need?
I'd like to see Thunder weigh in on the head flow issue. I'm having a hard time finding flow numbers, but in stock form, the Vortecs I believe blow TBI heads out of the water, and are much more efficient for combustion.
GM specs:
1995 5.7 Liter200 @ 4000 rpm310 @ 2400 rpm1996 5700255 @ 4600 rpm330 @ 2800 rpm
I thought1995 was all roller cam, but GM says no. 55HP isn't coming from just the injection and roller cam. Specific mention is made of the 9.4:1 compression with the same octane.
My engine runs 195-220* every time I drive it, (due to electric fan programmed temps) good cooling system and overheating is a non-issue. I think most of us are smart enough to fix the problem when we see the temperature climb, as opposed to apparently the rest of the population that tries to make it home with no coolant.
TBIchips.com:
"3. The Heads. The TBI heads are the worst flowing heads GM ever released. So the best bang for the buck is the these aluminum heads from Sons of Thunder. They flow well and are not real expensive for an aftermarket head. The GM Vortec head is also a good choice but does require a special intake and lots of EGR work if you need EGR to remain emission legal. These heads are good for a solid 50hp. Another good reasonably priced set of heads that will work nicely without special intakes on a TBI motor is a set of DART 165 iron heads. They flow well and the price isn't bad. The DART 180's also flow well and have a better exhaust flow than many small block heads and so I would keep the cams intake and exhaust duration tighter together. ALSO check out http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/index4.html for some air flow information that can help you decide on the heads you want to run. (Dorians note: link dead?) Next to the cam this is the most important choice. Compression ratios and pistons and all that stuff are not near as important as the head and cam choice. That decision will make or break your engine project and you wallet if your not careful."
I'd like to see Thunder weigh in on the head flow issue. I'm having a hard time finding flow numbers, but in stock form, the Vortecs I believe blow TBI heads out of the water, and are much more efficient for combustion.
GM specs:
1995 5.7 Liter200 @ 4000 rpm310 @ 2400 rpm1996 5700255 @ 4600 rpm330 @ 2800 rpm
I thought1995 was all roller cam, but GM says no. 55HP isn't coming from just the injection and roller cam. Specific mention is made of the 9.4:1 compression with the same octane.
My engine runs 195-220* every time I drive it, (due to electric fan programmed temps) good cooling system and overheating is a non-issue. I think most of us are smart enough to fix the problem when we see the temperature climb, as opposed to apparently the rest of the population that tries to make it home with no coolant.
TBIchips.com:
"3. The Heads. The TBI heads are the worst flowing heads GM ever released. So the best bang for the buck is the these aluminum heads from Sons of Thunder. They flow well and are not real expensive for an aftermarket head. The GM Vortec head is also a good choice but does require a special intake and lots of EGR work if you need EGR to remain emission legal. These heads are good for a solid 50hp. Another good reasonably priced set of heads that will work nicely without special intakes on a TBI motor is a set of DART 165 iron heads. They flow well and the price isn't bad. The DART 180's also flow well and have a better exhaust flow than many small block heads and so I would keep the cams intake and exhaust duration tighter together. ALSO check out http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/41598/index4.html for some air flow information that can help you decide on the heads you want to run. (Dorians note: link dead?) Next to the cam this is the most important choice. Compression ratios and pistons and all that stuff are not near as important as the head and cam choice. That decision will make or break your engine project and you wallet if your not careful."
vortec
1/2 ton status
talk the guy down to $150 and you have a good deal. at 200, you're still not being ripped off. those engines are easy to set up, easy to mod, make their torque in a very usable rpm range, and can be very reliable when cared for properly.
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