CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
done
- Thread starter Metrodps
- Start date
Short answer is call ORD and they'll fix you up.
2" is easier than higher lifts. I would say you don't need a body lift, so you go all suspension.
I suspect they'll end up suggesting new front springs, the short shackle flip for the back, and new shocks all around.
You may or may not need steering correction; I'll leave that to them.
The steering brace is a good idea on any 73-87 4WD, lifted or not.
-- A
2" is easier than higher lifts. I would say you don't need a body lift, so you go all suspension.
I suspect they'll end up suggesting new front springs, the short shackle flip for the back, and new shocks all around.
You may or may not need steering correction; I'll leave that to them.
The steering brace is a good idea on any 73-87 4WD, lifted or not.
-- A
by far, a 2" bodylift will be your cheapest solution... by far.... $100 to 200 compared to 700 to a g or more for a small suspension lift...
Didn't think of that. Taller BL's, though, you get into all the gotchas of the tranny linkage, steering shaft, fuel filler, wiring, whatever else.
Lots of options. Could do a 1" body lift and zero rates at both ends for that matter.-- A
I was thinking "cheap" was the most important component.. I like the 1" bl and zero rate even better.... probably need u-bolts too, but still a good cheap alternative... tho a bit more work..
well, that's a zero rate in the front.. you can only go 1" in the front with a "block", tho it's not really a block cuz it bolts to the spring pack...
you can put whatever height block in the back you want.. but the front your limited to a 1" zero rate or add a inch.. and yes, both require new u-bolts..
you can put whatever height block in the back you want.. but the front your limited to a 1" zero rate or add a inch.. and yes, both require new u-bolts..
Stomis
Professional Amateur
You could do a zero rate and longer shackles in the front and a short shackle flip in the back also.
keep in mind, we're talking cheap.. block being the cheaper route...
I vote 1" bl and zero rates front and rear...
I vote 1" bl and zero rates front and rear...
I don't think you will be happy with the bumper fitment of the 1 inch body lift on a clean fresh painted truck that is going to shows.
The body lift can also be far more labor intensive.
The body lift can also be far more labor intensive.
scooter122983
1/2 ton status
For 2in you shouldn't "need" shocks, but it would be a good idea. I would ask ORD about steering but according to the website its only needed for 3+. In terms of lift choice my opinion would be for the rear go with a small shackle flip. For the front 2 in ez ride springs.
You might want to boost the back an inch more than the front. The heavy suburban body will squat the rear down over time
Since you won't have them in time for the show I have two suggestions. First is the one I would go with: 2" EZ front springs and a block in the rear. However, wait until you have the front in, then jack up the rear until you're happy with the stance. Most likely you will want a 3" block with 2" springs. You'll need new u-bolts for the rear (obviously) and probably for the front as well. I would also change the shocks. The springs are less than $200 shipped, you can get the shocks from Auto-Zone. The part #s are on here somewhere, that's where I got them from. Blocks are less than $50, and u-bolts you should be able to get bent locally. If you piece it together you'd probably be into it for under $400. Of course I've seen used 2" springs on here for $100, so that could get you done for ~$300. If buy this style as a "kit" expect to pay a little less than $500. I know some places sell it with 2" springs & 3" blocks.
Second, if you want to get this done for the absolute cheapest: Find an old rear spring pack with a thick overload (bottom) leaf. Take the pack apart, cut the spring a little longer than the perch, taper & radius the ends. Now clamp your old spring pack together at two points farther away from each other than your new leaf. Remove the center pin, and reassemble with the new leaf INVERTED. Add a 1.5" block to the rear to level things out. You'll need new center pins for the front, u-bolts, but NOT shocks. You are looking at about $150 to do this. Or if that is not enough lift use the 1" Zero-Rate up front & 2" block in the rear. The process is the same as above and the cost is only a little more. If you need new shocks anyway, or don't have an old spring pack laying around, it's worth the extra $40 to buy the Z-R.
It has these (so probably not) I got the E60 out of the GM master rpo code book (188 pages)
E60 - BODY HEIGHT - INCR GROUND CLEARANCE
YD5 - SPRING FRONT BASE EQUIPMENT
YD6 - REAR SPRING, BASE EQUIPMENT
You may be able to find a set of stock heavy duty springs, if you don't have them already, that someone is scrapping from a lift project. I know that mine just got melted into toaster ovens.
These springs, with the easy inch, could get you a little more vertical.
The warn bumper with winch may also bring that front end down a hair.
The heavy front springs have three leaves. The standard ones only have two front springs.
Have you ever seen my 1988 V10 Suburban thread? I have very minimal actual lift.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251067
Crappy picture, but this is a factory three pack of front springs with a 1" zero rate. The tire is a 33x12.50x15".
Martin
Have you ever seen my 1988 V10 Suburban thread? I have very minimal actual lift.
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=251067
Crappy picture, but this is a factory three pack of front springs with a 1" zero rate. The tire is a 33x12.50x15".
Martin
The main thing to remember here, is that he is going for a period correct/movie correct look. I guarantee that thing didn't have a shackle flip.
The best way to go would be to get a set of 2" front lift springs, and a set of 3" rear blocks.
Martin
The best way to go would be to get a set of 2" front lift springs, and a set of 3" rear blocks.
Martin
socoinslo
1/2 ton status
I recently removed a 2.5" lift from my suburban. I have the rear lift blocks and ubolts somewhere in my garage if youre interested in going that route. I could probably give them to you if you pay shipping. I wouldn't recommend the front springs I had with that lift though, I did the lift in high school and they were pretty cheap cause I didn't have much of a budget then. PM me if interested in the blocks.
For what he is looking to spend, those springs would probably be the ticket.
Martin
Martin
Yep. I did a 3 inch spring lift in front and a 4 inch shackle flip in the back on my Blazer and the stance is level. I got away with just lengthening the drag link for the steering correction, but at some point I'll probably get the dropped pitman arm from ORD to do it right.
I agree with others that if you're going for the correct movie look lift springs in the front and blocks in the back will probably be the best route.
