Recently bought a Blazer and the doors were fine...took the hard top off today and now the drivers side door is almost hitting the body on the top of the door on the latch side. Can this be done from the hinges or do I new to mess with shimming the body mounts?
CK5
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Door alignment/adjustment
- Thread starter crv
- Start date
Hinges.. Shims or loosen and adjust.
Not too sure why removing the top would effect the door alignment.
Not too sure why removing the top would effect the door alignment.
How rusty is the rig?
your rocker boxes are fubar.. the rig is now bent..
your more than likely gonna have to try and shim the mount behind the seat on that side to open it up...
rusty or not, the rocker box is what's allowing that...
rusty or not, the rocker box is what's allowing that...
Damn, not what I was hoping to hear. I will try shimming. After rolling around under the truck, it appears all the mounts are poly and the two under your feet are still factory style rubber. I'm wondering if that could be contributing to my problem too?
I'd get all "known, good, equal body mounts" in and see where that put's ya...
always remember, if the factory qrters are original, that's what you base your gaps off of for the door.....
always remember, if the factory qrters are original, that's what you base your gaps off of for the door.....
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One's gota ask/wonder if it was a frame off, why would someone mix rubber with poly. And seeing there is no rust now where did it go(Because we all know these old 1st gens got rusty)so if it got replaced maybe the doors weren't braced when it got cut into
. Thats what happened to mine and it's been kinda jacked ever since. Shims will be your best bet.
. Thats what happened to mine and it's been kinda jacked ever since. Shims will be your best bet.One's gota ask/wonder if it was a frame off, why would someone mix rubber with poly. And seeing there is no rust now where did it go(Because we all know these old 1st gens got rusty)so if it got replaced maybe the doors weren't braced when it got cut into
Definitely - I wonder if some stuff was repaired incorrectly as well. From what I've been told, the truck originally came from Colorado. I have pics throughout the restoration, but it was actually completed by the owner previous to the guy I bought it from.
I'm trying to put together the pieces and have been going through receipts that were given to me, and it looks like last owner had a body shop replace the mounts....but apparently they didn't replace all of them for some reason. The pictures throughout the restoration from have pictures of the completed truck with the top off, door gaps look good, so I'm not quite sure whats going on here...
Lets make sure we are using the correct terminology as well.
Rocker Panel - the cosmetic sheetmetal panel directly below the door on the outside of the truck
Rocker Box - sometimes also called the "Torsion Box". The large rectangular structural sections only visible from the underside of the truck that tie the front footwell areas back to the rear section of the truck behind the door openings.
Nobody is trying to rain on your parade, but there are a LOT of people here who thought they had solid trucks only to find out that there were many structural problems hiding underneath carpets and thick, fresh coats of rubberized undercoating. The torsion box completely encapsulates the front cab support... there is no way to even SEE how rotten it is withouth either cutting a large hole in the floor (from above) or competely dropping the torsion boxes and inspecting behind them.
Be warned: It takes an enormous amount of time and money to properly repair rust in the front footwell / torsion box areas. Most bodyshops will throw on a new outer rocker PANEL to make the truck "look" solid from the outside, and maybe do a little floor patching from above to deal with perforations in the floor.... meanwhile, all of the rust and structural issues underneath are completely unresolved.
A door gap that suddenly changes when the hardtop is removed is a bad sign.
-G
Rocker Panel - the cosmetic sheetmetal panel directly below the door on the outside of the truck
Rocker Box - sometimes also called the "Torsion Box". The large rectangular structural sections only visible from the underside of the truck that tie the front footwell areas back to the rear section of the truck behind the door openings.
Nobody is trying to rain on your parade, but there are a LOT of people here who thought they had solid trucks only to find out that there were many structural problems hiding underneath carpets and thick, fresh coats of rubberized undercoating. The torsion box completely encapsulates the front cab support... there is no way to even SEE how rotten it is withouth either cutting a large hole in the floor (from above) or competely dropping the torsion boxes and inspecting behind them.
Be warned: It takes an enormous amount of time and money to properly repair rust in the front footwell / torsion box areas. Most bodyshops will throw on a new outer rocker PANEL to make the truck "look" solid from the outside, and maybe do a little floor patching from above to deal with perforations in the floor.... meanwhile, all of the rust and structural issues underneath are completely unresolved.
A door gap that suddenly changes when the hardtop is removed is a bad sign.
-G
Hey Greg,
I understand - anything is possible, I just hope that's not what was done...I paid a pretty penny for this thing.
Pics from previous owner: http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/tonylo-blazer/library/?sort=3&page=1
I understand - anything is possible, I just hope that's not what was done...I paid a pretty penny for this thing.
Pics from previous owner: http://s1364.photobucket.com/user/tonylo-blazer/library/?sort=3&page=1
Here are your boxes that Greg was talking about. They do look good, but so did a lot of ours. Once you cut them out, there very well might not be a front cab support in there any more.
New mounts and shims might be your answer.
Nice looking rig, by the way.
New mounts and shims might be your answer.
Nice looking rig, by the way.
There is very little in those 550 photos to show what is REALLY going on.... most of that is just external bodywork and a few small sheetmetal repairs.
If you want a better view you can take off this inspection panel at the back side of the torsion box:
Shine a flashlight in there and see what sort of condition the inside of those boxes are in. My guess is that your mystery will be solved by peeking in there.
I hadn't even looked at your photos when I made the "heavy rubberized undercoating" comments, but there is definitely evidence that it was used to hide some floorboard patching... most notably on the passenger side where rust is common. Directly below that area is where the cab support is.... if the floors were rotten, the cab support was rotten too. I'm not sure if those torsion boxes are original or reproductions, but they look a little "too good" considering the condition of some of the other areas from the "in process" photos in your gallery.
It's all fixable. My guess is that even if you have to dig in to the torsion boxes and floors, none of it will affect the finished paintjob or parts of the interior that you will see once the carpets go back in.
-G
If you want a better view you can take off this inspection panel at the back side of the torsion box:
Shine a flashlight in there and see what sort of condition the inside of those boxes are in. My guess is that your mystery will be solved by peeking in there.
I hadn't even looked at your photos when I made the "heavy rubberized undercoating" comments, but there is definitely evidence that it was used to hide some floorboard patching... most notably on the passenger side where rust is common. Directly below that area is where the cab support is.... if the floors were rotten, the cab support was rotten too. I'm not sure if those torsion boxes are original or reproductions, but they look a little "too good" considering the condition of some of the other areas from the "in process" photos in your gallery.
It's all fixable. My guess is that even if you have to dig in to the torsion boxes and floors, none of it will affect the finished paintjob or parts of the interior that you will see once the carpets go back in.
-G
I have been busy, but finally got around around to this.
I got a hold of a copy of the Energy Suspension directions and there was a body mount installed in the wrong location as well as the rubber mounts left in position #1. It appears they had been replaced before as they had LMC on them.
I still needed to shim #2 to get my doors aligned. How much shimming is considered acceptable on these?
I got a hold of a copy of the Energy Suspension directions and there was a body mount installed in the wrong location as well as the rubber mounts left in position #1. It appears they had been replaced before as they had LMC on them.
I still needed to shim #2 to get my doors aligned. How much shimming is considered acceptable on these?
I try to limit body mount shims to a 1/4" or so..
