Door bracing

[Z71paramedic]

Since I'm about to that point, and I know it's a hot topic to say the least, I was wondering what everyone is doing to brace the door openings? I know Greg and a few others are welding in a piece of steel across the top of the door gap. Anybody building/using something adjustable that could be used on another vehicle with larger or smaller door openings? The reason I ask is because once the blazer is done and we're living in the continental US again I'll be on the lookout for a 68 Charger (that I'm sure will need restored, I'm not paying 40K!!!) and obviously that has a much larger door than the truck does. I was thinking something similar to a tie rod, or turnbuckle that can be adjusted to the correct opening, locked down and would bolt to the striker plate/upper hinge areas to hold the gap. Let me know!

 

[jtrux]

VT has the best solution, i'm sure he'll post a pic of what he did.

 

[Greg72]

The "adjustable" thing seems like a good idea, but really how hard is it to cut some square tubing to the correct length and weld it in?? Even if you have to do it again for a different vehicle, it's only a couple bucks for material.

Adjustable is only good if it NEVER moves during the restoration.... lots of things can happen over the course of a 2 or 3 year restoration, and that "perfect" door brace setting might not be so perfect after months and months of hammering, vibration and heating/cooling cycles on the adjacent bodywork.

Like anything related to restoration work, take LOTS of measurements of the door opening and lots of photos and notes. (Assuming the original door fits well)... as the new parts go on, be fanatical about checking the fit and comparing the new dimensions to the old ones.

It should be obvious that all of the sheetmetal should be hung and gapped BEFORE you blow it apart for final paint. Dennis is in a really heartbreaking spot now because he's got a finish-painted truck and no easy way to fix his fitment issues without grinding off the new paint and making some necessary cuts.

Personally, I believe that if you are pulling the vehicle apart to get all the rust out, it would probably make the most sense to replace all the rotten cab supports, floors and rocker areas and THEN try to hang the door and gap it before you weld the torsion box back in. The whole idea of the torsion box is to add strength to the structure so ideally you want to "lock it down" once the gaps are all perfect instead of shimming the crap out of the body mounts and putting a lot of preload stress into the torsion box.

 

[Z71paramedic]

Personally, I believe that if you are pulling the vehicle apart to get all the rust out, it would probably make the most sense to replace all the rotten cab supports, floors and rocker areas and THEN try to hang the door and gap it before you weld the torsion box back in. The whole idea of the torsion box is to add strength to the structure so ideally you want to "lock it down" once the gaps are all perfect instead of shimming the crap out of the body mounts and putting a lot of preload stress into the torsion box.

I'm not going to have THAT much rust to be cutting out and repairing (at least I don't think so at this point). My floors are all really solid, cab supports look great, etc. All I'm sure of at this point is the torsion boxes and probably inner rockers and then some little areas around those. If you hold off on the torsion boxes and gapping until after it is all fixed are you saying that I should wait to brace the door gap until I've cut out rust and measured? Thanks again everybody for holding my hand through this!

 

[GRINCH]

It is just not bracing the door that really matters. Greg has posted up some very good advice and I did not follow any of when I started on this truck long ago. Now I am stuck with the dilemma of dealing with it. To read more go to my build thread.

I can not stress enough to take the time to put the doors back on and make sure everything lines up. If you plan on running a top put that on as well. Do all the fitting before the final welds if you can. It may look right, but it isn't. Don't just assume it will all work out. Don't get in a rush to get it done, it's easy to do.

Dennis

 

[vtblazer]

and would bolt to the striker plate/upper hinge areas to hold the gap. Let me know!

Problem with doing it that way is when it comes time to 'test fit' the doors, how do you keep the gap and install the doors...?

 

[Z71paramedic]

Problem with doing it that way is when it comes time to 'test fit' the doors, how do you keep the gap and install the doors...?

Good call, hadn't thought about that part!

 

[tp85]

I've taken a different approach...no bracing but lots of measurements before welding each piece. needed to rig up a push/pull from a column in my garage to make sure the door opening was just right at all times. to be honest, i spent so many months in the door opening fitting all the patches that i could not imagine having bracing in the way. maybe i'm just getting old. i did hang/remove the door probably 6 times total...especially to weld in the rocker box. i plan to do the driver's side the same way...no bracing, but constantly watching the opening dimensions.
tom

 

[Z71paramedic]

I've taken a different approach...no bracing but lots of measurements before welding each piece. needed to rig up a push/pull from a column in my garage to make sure the door opening was just right at all times. to be honest, i spent so many months in the door opening fitting all the patches that i could not imagine having bracing in the way. maybe i'm just getting old. i did hang/remove the door probably 6 times total...especially to weld in the rocker box. i plan to do the driver's side the same way...no bracing, but constantly watching the opening dimensions.
tom

That's something else that I'd thought of. The PO(s) of my truck have replaced sheetmetal before and the doors don't line up right anyways. I know I'm going to need to adjust things so maybe I'll try a bit of both

 

[vtblazer]

I've taken a different approach...no bracing but lots of measurements before welding each piece. needed to rig up a push/pull from a column in my garage to make sure the door opening was just right at all times. to be honest, i spent so many months in the door opening fitting all the patches that i could not imagine having bracing in the way. maybe i'm just getting old. i did hang/remove the door probably 6 times total...especially to weld in the rocker box. i plan to do the driver's side the same way...no bracing, but constantly watching the opening dimensions.

why work so hard at it?

Why not build an simple brace that allows you to hang the doors without removing it, doesn't get in your way while working on the tub and that 'will' transfer to the other side as needed and work without adjustment?

 

[tp85]

No bracing did make me nervous...so I became obsessed with the measurements. Probably an easily removable brace would be best, but then you may still need a system to push/pull the firewall.

 

[vtblazer]

No bracing did make me nervous...so I became obsessed with the measurements. Probably an easily removable brace would be best, but then you may still need a system to push/pull the firewall.

Heh heh, I hear ya on the measuring thing.

I used a 2" ratchet strap and found it to work really well.

May not be "the answer to all" but here's a couple pics of the brace I made up for the door openings while working around there.
Edit: Can't find the pics, will keep digging...