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door frame rub issue

wazzabie

wazzabie

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The door on the K5 rubs in the upper frame. I replaced the door pins. And the door is still tight in this area. It is the same for both driver and passenger with the door rub. Passenger side door pins are good however. Your thoughts on how to fix this? The door will close.

72bf20e.jpg
 
sweetk30 said:
need to adjust the door hinges . there is lots of movement on our old trucks for this .
Click to expand...

Are the hinges attached to the cowl adjustable? I've been playing with the bolts that attach the hinge to the door but without results.
 
Yes. The a pillar hinges are adjustable. There is one bolt that must be reached from inside the cab. Some people don't know about it and think the hinges are not adjustable.
 
What would have caused the door to move back? I measured the door frame and it matches specified deminsions.
 
New bushings on the door hinge that was replaced?
 
I need to somehow move the top of my passenger door closer to the cab, even with my new door seals I get a whistle on the passenger side. Gotta figure out the hinges one of these days.
 
Look at the lines. Some times moving the bottom out is needed. This rotates the doir on th top hinge and moves the top in. Just crack the upper hing bolts. So the door will twist with the loeer hinge lose.
 
Nick came over today and we spent about 6 hours dicking with his new driver's door. Hinge bushings were shot...but he had bigger issues. When you tried to close the door the body line was off by nearly two inches at the striker end of the door. It was outright horrible, I think his previous doors were China copies, being replaced with GM original doors. The only real option was loosening the cowl side of the hinges and working things from there. The big issue is you need either to remove the fender (ideal really) or remove the door to gain good access to the hinge bolts. The upper hinge has one bolt from the inside out. The access hole is easiest to get to if you remove the dash bezel and AC vent in that corner.

On Nick's truck we ended up moving the upper hinge 3/16" forward :yikes: and the lower hinge we pulled back 1/8". The door was re & re'd 6 times before it was deemed to be in the right ballpark for the cowl side. I dunno what was up with the hinge repair kit Nick got, but we ended up having to chuck the hinge pins in the drill press and gently file the splines to get them to press fit properly.

Once the cowl side was set, and the hinge repairs were done we had to rotate the top of the door out and bottom in to get all the lines right. When he left both doors close with a very gentle touch, have nice even gaps, and don't rub or hang up anywhere. It's a bit of a tedious job, but one well worth doing IMO.
 
tRustyK5 said:
Nick came over today and we spent about 6 hours dicking with his new driver's door. Hinge bushings were shot...but he had bigger issues. When you tried to close the door the body line was off by nearly two inches at the striker end of the door. It was outright horrible, I think his previous doors were China copies, being replaced with GM original doors. The only real option was loosening the cowl side of the hinges and working things from there. The big issue is you need either to remove the fender (ideal really) or remove the door to gain good access to the hinge bolts. The upper hinge has one bolt from the inside out. The access hole is easiest to get to if you remove the dash bezel and AC vent in that corner.

On Nick's truck we ended up moving the upper hinge 3/16" forward :yikes: and the lower hinge we pulled back 1/8". The door was re & re'd 6 times before it was deemed to be in the right ballpark for the cowl side. I dunno what was up with the hinge repair kit Nick got, but we ended up having to chuck the hinge pins in the drill press and gently file the splines to get them to press fit properly.

Once the cowl side was set, and the hinge repairs were done we had to rotate the top of the door out and bottom in to get all the lines right. When he left both doors close with a very gentle touch, have nice even gaps, and don't rub or hang up anywhere. It's a bit of a tedious job, but one well worth doing IMO.
Click to expand...
I will give you 2 cases of Moosehead to do that to mine
 
tRustyK5 said:
Nick came over today and we spent about 6 hours dicking with his new driver's door. Hinge bushings were shot...but he had bigger issues. When you tried to close the door the body line was off by nearly two inches at the striker end of the door. It was outright horrible, I think his previous doors were China copies, being replaced with GM original doors. The only real option was loosening the cowl side of the hinges and working things from there. The big issue is you need either to remove the fender (ideal really) or remove the door to gain good access to the hinge bolts. The upper hinge has one bolt from the inside out. The access hole is easiest to get to if you remove the dash bezel and AC vent in that corner.

On Nick's truck we ended up moving the upper hinge 3/16" forward :yikes: and the lower hinge we pulled back 1/8". The door was re & re'd 6 times before it was deemed to be in the right ballpark for the cowl side. I dunno what was up with the hinge repair kit Nick got, but we ended up having to chuck the hinge pins in the drill press and gently file the splines to get them to press fit properly.

Once the cowl side was set, and the hinge repairs were done we had to rotate the top of the door out and bottom in to get all the lines right. When he left both doors close with a very gentle touch, have nice even gaps, and don't rub or hang up anywhere. It's a bit of a tedious job, but one well worth doing IMO.
Click to expand...

I had to do the same thing with the new door pins on the drill press. I even ordered the GM door pins which I thought would have been better fit then Dorman. I replaced the brass brushings which were worn. Even with the spines removed on the pin it was still a press fit.

I have original GM door that I'm replacing with new GM doors. Here is the fit with the new GM door. The body lines are good but it hits the upper rear frame just like the old door. I'm going to try moving the pillar hinges attached to the cowl and take the fender off.
a80f9cb.jpg
 
I've had a few issues with poor fitting & closing original doors on my '72 K5,mostly due to the floors and rockers being replaced without me properly bracing things before I cut away the rotted metal and welded in the repair panels--when I was done,the drivers door was hitting the rear jamb before even coming close to the striker..like an inch away!.:blush:..:eek:..

I also had replaced the hinge pins & bushings on the drivers side door,the passenger door was still tight,and didn't give any grief with the closing,I guess that side didn't sag or move..
I also had to put a cab mount on the drivers side,and had to jack up on the floor to get it in,that probably tweaked that side more..

..the lower bushings on the drivers side hinge were shot,no brass at all left-and the hinge holes had some wear,but the new bushings corrected that ok.

I fiddled around with all the hinge adjustments and got it so it would close,but was still hitting the rear jamb hard,and you had to pick up on the rear of the door to align the striker bolt...even with the hinge adjusted all the way forward..in desperation I ended up putting a few 3/16" thick body shims between the hinge and the door on the bottom hinge,that lifted the rear of the door up more and helped the most..still far from good though,and shimming the striker post only made it worse--but at least the door closed now--and I could drive it..:blush:

I lived with it being tough to close,rattling and knocking against the door jamb for a few months--one day I delivered some paint to a body shop on my way home from work,and asked the owner how much he'd charge to align the door right...

He went out,looked at the truck--goes back in the shop,and comes out with an 8 foot 2x4,he put some rags around it where it touched the door and floor,and heaved upwards on it a few times..the door closed nicely after that,like brand new..he said "I have to do that on EVERY GM truck that we put Tiwan doors on!"....he wouldn't even accept a coffee for payment...

The next day I sneaked a whole bundle of paint stirrer paddles and strainers in with his paint order,my boss was a stingy bastid and would give like 2 of them for each gallon of paint...all the body shops hated that!...they would always say "and give me some strainers and sticks with the paint ya cheap bastids!"...

I never understood why he was unwilling to give away 10 bucks worth of them a month,when it would have kept them happy,and increased our sales...many shops bought their paint elsewhere just because that pissed them off !...the fact we sold Dupont and was the only store within a 30 mile radius that did,was what kept the doors open for the most part...
 
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