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door hinge rebuild?

There is a ton of time involved, okay not really but the basics are you need a punch to knock the old pins out and a way to support the door. Once the pins are out, knock the old bushings out and put the new ones in place. Then simply knock the new pins into place and you are done. I have used a highlift, and another time or three, just a hydraulic floor jack with a board to support the door.

The hardest part always seems to be getting the old pins knocked out. Once you get past the catch, they pop right out most times, but that first little catch is a pain.
 
I'm getting ready to rebuild mine as well. I bought my pins and bushings at autozone in the Help section, I think they were $4 a kit...
 
if the steel body bushing hole is worn out of round it will trash the new bushing faster and be back to crap again soon. so also check the main body of the hinge. and if junk you can just unbolt and get a used one thats better and try again.

but if removed from body you will need to reset the door gaps and position.
 
If the hinges holes are egged out,they can be welded up and re-drilled--or you can do what I've done with ones I did for customers who wanted a cheapie fix,I used a "step bit" drill to enlarge and true up the ovaled holes,and used long grade 8 or allen head 7/16" bolts with nylock nuts instead of the original pins,after drilling the hinges out to 7/16"...
I've also used some thick 3/8" washers ,or old rocker aem balls as bushings,I welded them over the ovaled holes and used longer bolts instead of the hinge pins..

Easiest fix is to just buy new hinges from GM,but they are not exactly cheep,,
 
check for cracks behind the hinge on the door sheet metal, mine was cracked pretty good in there.
 
i used my engine hoist to hold up the door w/ a ratchet strap around the window frame. i have a friend who used diesel4me's suggestion about the pins. drilled them out and used a long bolt. he didn't secure it w/ a nut, though. he used a bolt that was about 1/2" long, cut off the threads, drilled a hole across the end, and he secured it w/ a cotter pin. now he can take the full door off very easily and swap out the half door he uses in the summer. of course you can always use nylon nuts and one set of doors.
 
I used nuts and bolts--after waking up one day in february of 1984 and seeing my '72 K5 sitting there with NO doors and full of snow after a stom thr night before--,I want to be sure no one can swipe them too easily off my trucks I own now!...
I even tack welded the bolt head to the hinges!..
 
Finally got around to this. I got the door off and was able to remove the door hinge. I first had to take my dremal and grind down the rivet on the bottom of the pin. The pin came right out then.

I put the pin back in and with out the hinge that mounts to the door. It is rock solid. The hinge that mounts to the door is egged some. So it is either a new hinge or off to the junk yard. The brushings and pins were in so tight... I don't think they moved at all over all these years.
 
Could I just try putting a brushing on the door side hinge the is egged? I also read about welding and drilling an new hole in the hinge.
 
I just got back from the junk yard. I tested the door hinges by pulling up on the bottom of the door to see how much play was in them. Some were much worse then mine and other doors had less play. I tested about 6 73-91 chevys and all of them had play in the doors.

Is some movement ok?
 
I have never found any "tight" hinges on junkers ,especially the drivers side--even after putting new bushings in, you can pick up on the door and feel some play,but it shouldn't be much... bushings are not expensive or that hard to replace,if you find a hinge with no wear on the steel hinge itself where the bushing hole is, I'd get them and install new pins and bushings in them...
 

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