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door sag

ringer

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My driver side door has recently developed a little bit of sag. It is not much, but it is enough that I have to slam it pretty hard to get it to close and it is coming awfully close to the front fender when opened.

Is the repair a matter of replacing the "pins" in the hinges ?

Has anyone done this?


/forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
 
You can get hinge kits from auto parts stores which is pins and bushings which is actually pretty cheap to buy and is usually the cause of door sag /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
let me just say that I had the same problem. Changing the pins was not fun. Even after I changed the set it still was a bit hard to close. So what I had to do was adjust the door at the hinges....little higher..check...little lower....check...etc. Not fun, but now my door shuts nicely. I also cleaned and lubed up the locking mechanism in the door(latch) and intalled a new striker post(the thing that is on the body that gets "latched"


have fun /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
Thanks for the replies.
Does the fender have to be removed to adjust the hinges if the pins do not solve my problem?
 
they don't have to be removed, but it might be easier if you do remove them. just depends on if your having troubles adjusting the hinges with them on.
 
My door was acting up like yours is. You go to close it, you could hear it scrape on the striker, and you could see where it was hitting.

Typically to see if your hinges are shot, you open the door and lift up on the outer edge...if it moves up and down, your hinges are shot.

However, on mine, I tried that, and didn't detect any play. My dad, who has been messing with these trucks my entire life, was over and tried it with the door JUST open...sure enough, lots of play. In my case, it was the UPPER hinge only that was shot, but I think the hinges were mix and match when I put it all together.

Anyways, had a new GM hinge laying around, threw it in, and problem is gone. Still have to shut the door kind of hard, but that's because it's actually contacting the door seal like it's supposed to. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
GM dealers carry pins and bushings. Either one could be bad. The top hinge seems to wear quicker, so it's possible that you only need to replace 1.

They also sell a repair kit in case the hole has been ovaled out. You drill it bigger and put in a new bushing with bigger OD
 
I have seen the replacement pins in the HELP section at Kragen, but they are very vague as to the vehicles they apply to. I think there are two or three different ones that claim to be for chevy trucks/blazers. Anyone know the actual measurements of these pins?
 
[ QUOTE ]

Typically to see if your hinges are shot, you open the door and lift up on the outer edge...if it moves up and down, your hinges are shot.



[/ QUOTE ] I did that on my door last night and noticed I had a lot of play. That is the bad part of a lifted truck, every passenger has to use the door to get in and put all their weight on it. /forums/images/graemlins/mad.gif My strikers are worn half way through. /forums/images/graemlins/histerical.gif
 

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