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Double hole saw thing...

cybrfire

cybrfire

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I often get asked the best method to knock out the Shackle eye hanger hole to the larger size that we use and of course this could be used for other things as well.

You can use a regualar arbor and two hole saws together. There is just enough thread.

Our weapon of choice,

5/8" fine thread bolt beheaded and turned down to fit the chuck. 3 flats would be nice as you'll see in the video. Then, 5/8" fine thread nut, washer, 2 1/8" hole saw, 2 more washers and finally a 1 7/8" hole saw which is now the pilot.

With a regular arbor you can't use all the washers and won't need the nut. I don't like that as much since you end up with a very short pilot lead.

Pics.

4.jpg


5.jpg




 
How about machine up a bunch of Bolts with the Flat sides and selling them??
 
yellowK20 said:
How about machine up a bunch of Bolts with the Flat sides and selling them??
Click to expand...


There's a piece of tooling I've been looking for at a reasonable price that'd make this a bit more doable. That'd be the only hang up.

Actually, it'd probably be better at that point to start with a solid round and machine the whole works rather than buying a bolt and putting a bunch of time into it.

Wouldn't be hard to whip up a bunch of different size pilots to go with it.
 
Where was this thread 6 months ago when I swapped to your hangars :doah: I would have paid a LARGE amount of money just for the idea! :haha:
 
its a neat Idea theres been many times I've needed to do exactly what you've done here .

I'd buy one that was setup to fit a 3/8 drill
 
Do some years frames have a smaller hole? my 73' had a just big enough hole for the custom Aluminum/Titanium mount I made a long time ago. I thought they were all the same no? I think you use the same size bushing as I did. Pics post 1, & 7.

Link to my part.


http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162108
 
rdn2blazer said:
Do some years frames have a smaller hole? my 73' had a just big enough hole for the custom Aluminum/Titanium mount I made a long time ago. I thought they were all the same no? I think you use the same size bushing as I did. Pics post 1, & 7.

Link to my part.


http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=162108
Click to expand...

I believe there are a few different sizes out there. This one seemed bigger than I remember but its been a long time since I put a set on though.

MTblazer89, Shoulda called me!! There just isn't alot of good ways to do that. Torch works obviously but usually a bit messier and not always available. Plasma cutter but not everybody has one avaialble. Not even sure what else you'd do.

I'll put this up on my website, tech tips tomorrow if I can.
 
What I do is use a Die grinder and it takes forever to open up holes, this is the best Tech Idea I've heard in awhile
 
I guess step drills would work for some smaller stuff as well. I think they stop somewhere around 1" or at least that's what I've seen.
 
MTBLAZER89 said:
I used a carbide cutter bit...it took Forever :doah:
Click to expand...


I can only imagine! Then throw in the sharp, hot little chips that come off of a cutter like that.... YUCK.

Props to you for having the chops to "get r done."
 
I have a very simple method for that exact problem. I weld in a small bridge piece of steel across the center of the existing hole and center punch the center of the hole again. Then use a regular piloted hole saw to go bigger.

Rene
 
tRustyK5 said:
I have a very simple method for that exact problem. I weld in a small bridge piece of steel across the center of the existing hole and center punch the center of the hole again. Then use a regular piloted hole saw to go bigger.

Rene
Click to expand...

Ya know I thought about doing that, but the pass side has fuel lines and that worries me :crazy:
 
When I did mine I made a plate with the larger hole cut in it. Then I bolted it to the existing mounting bolt holes. The plate acts as a guide just on the outside of the bit instead of in it. Course when doing it this way you need to make sure it lines up correctly or the hole will be off. Works well for making oblong holes too.
 
Lines are bent around the factory hanger. You should be able to do it either way. A couple good tacks is probably all you'd need. Haven't actually tried it this way.

Which way you go probably most depends on what tool you have available to work with. If you have a welder and are missing the pilot hole saw, maybe welding is the way to go for you.

If you have the hole saws, no real need to get the welder out.

Maybe you kick ass with a plasma cutter, have already moved your lines out of the way and don't have a welder or hole saws.
 
we've been using the dual holesaw method for years in boats for various projects... very handy on occasion, especially dash retro-fits...

I'm not sure what you guys are really talking about tho.. I did ORD's FUSH kit on mine and barely had to remove much material, maybe an 1/8th all the way around... :confused: did it with a alum cutting carbide burr in about 5 minutes per hole...
 
cybrfire said:
There's a piece of tooling I've been looking for at a reasonable price that'd make this a bit more doable. That'd be the only hang up.

Actually, it'd probably be better at that point to start with a solid round and machine the whole works rather than buying a bolt and putting a bunch of time into it.

Wouldn't be hard to whip up a bunch of different size pilots to go with it.
Click to expand...


Couldn't you just chuck it up real quick and make a tiny center mark in the beheaded bolt and walk a compass around it? Seems like that would only take 15 minutes a peice if you did a bunch of them at the same time and had your machines/compass set up for them.

I'm wondering what peice of tooling are you talking about.....

You have my attention.:ears:
 
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