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Doubler Clearance and Lift Advice

NYDIESELDAVE

NYDIESELDAVE

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 6, 2005
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Location
Penfield, NY
Ok, I finally give. I don't know the answer to one and the other I'm looking for rig experiences.

First,

I've saved up and decided to go with a doubler. What I am wondering is what kind of floor clearance issues should I start preparing for and since I'm still in mid-build; change to help? My thought is maybe a 1" body lift but I rather not have to if there is some other way around it. What part of the 203/205 hit the floor? The trans tunnel?

Second,

In my plans I have been thinking 35" BFG under the rig with 5" susp lift all around. Has anyone been able to run 35" without cutting sheet metal and get pretty much full spring compression without rubbing? I know it would be simple to do some triming, but I rather not do that so as to keep the rust away as long as possible. (I'm bedlining alot of the truck)

Thanks for the help.
 
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cbbr has much better answer than me, but i think you'll be cutting it close. i've got a 4" lift and 35s and no engine in the truck. :) so, by the looks of it, it's really close and at any compression while turning, it's going to rub. i'll need to cut. don't know how much difference that one inch will make.
 
I was affraid of that. I will be running a 6.2 which makes the ft kinda heavy and won't help most likely. I wonder if I can get away with just trimming the front sheet metal and not the rear? What do you think?

colbystephens said:
cbbr has much better answer than me, but i think you'll be cutting it close. i've got a 4" lift and 35s and no engine in the truck. :) so, by the looks of it, it's really close and at any compression while turning, it's going to rub. i'll need to cut. don't know how much difference that one inch will make.
Click to expand...
 
Mine only rubs in the front at the rear of the fender well. It "self corrected" a bit and I have had no problem since. You should be able to trim that corner off and be fine.
 
Sweet ... I would be okay with just triming the FT Sheet metal. I was hoping that was the case since I was measuring last night and it looked like the 35's would be okay on the RR without cutting. I'm mainly building a vehicle for the backwoods and rock hills around here. No major mud pits or boulders. But I get into the logging trails and backwood in the Adirondak Mountains alot. Thanks cbbr.
 
I had to reinstall a 3" body lift to get my doubler to not hit the tub. I am going to remove the body lift and cut out the trans tunnel. Nothing against the body lift I just want to keep my COG low...er. I hope to get some pictures of my progress this week and you can check it out.
 
Thanks for getting back to me on the clearance issue. I wonder if having the removable tran tunnel pushed up a little would help the clearance. You don't happen to know what part of the doubler used to hit the floor door you? What brand dual case kit are you running?
 
I have a WMS doubler. The actual doubler adapter would hit the tub just a few inches back of the shifter cut out.
 
Put my ORD doubler in last weekend and the very top of the tail of the 205 hit the floor pan under the seat when I had it at the height I wanted it at. I just jacked up on the transmission jack and used the 205 to bend the floor up and then let it down back to where I wanted it. Now I have 1" clearance and all it took was a couple of pumps of the handle.
 
Thanks JpEater and 8_YOUR_H2. I planning on running the Northwest Fab. Works Dual case set up. Heck if all it take is a little push with the floor jack and that will make it work I'm good with that. I was chatting with someone earlier about it and they suggested a 1" ORD BL with new body mount bushings. The idea behind that is that with twist and flex of things the floor will still not get hit. Plus with the 1" lift I'll actually have 6" of total lift which may help with the tire clearance issue.

My only problem with the BL idea is the engine. I looked into other BL's before I got real serious out my COG and all the companies advised against use with the diesel engine. I would think it should be the same as the 350 or 454. Not sure, I probably will have to look further into it.
 
I think the issue with body lifts and diesels, is the fact that you would have to have custom hydroboost lines made, since no factory line would be long enough. I would think a 1" BL would be OK, after looking at my lines.
 
That would make sense. If thats all it is that will be easy since I'm getting the lines made anyways. I have a company around here that makes hydro lines for plows and they quoted me a lower price to make the ones I needed; than to buy them stock. Thanks mouse. Speaking of which, anyone know who makes high output ps pumps w/ hydro boost?
 
Thanks mouse, I checked out PSC and think they may be able to help me out. Is anyone running a dual case setup from NWF. I was wondering what they thought of it.

Thanks everyone for all your help. I have been working on vehicles for a long time but I have really only been into the 4x4 scene for the last 6 or 7 years, so I'm still learning. If anyone is in the upstate NY area and needs a hand, let me know. I'm may not know everything but I can still turn a wrench and could use the experience. I'm kinda learned what I have through trial and error.
 
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