Doubler Clocking Question

[nvrenuf]

How far do I or don't I want to clock my 205? How much is needed to make everything flat across the bottom? Obviously, there is no point in clocking the case higher than the next lowest point, what is that? The 203 adapter? I know up to 2" is automatically available but is that too much or too little to be even with the next lowest point?

How does clocking effect the shifter set up? Does everything still work smoothly with a moderate amount of rotation?

I'm most likely going to take advantage of the 2" option I just want to make sure that's smart.

 

[4X4HIGH]

2" up rotation will make the 205 level with the 203.

 

[big83chevy4x4]

i think you can clock the 203 gearbox upside down then the 205 flat and have a completely flat belly. you probably would need a body lift though.

 

[kennyw]

[ QUOTE ]
i think you can clock the 203 gearbox upside down then the 205 flat and have a completely flat belly. you probably would need a body lift though.

[/ QUOTE ]

More like a /forums/images/graemlins/hack.gif /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[Stephen]

The clocking options depend somewhat on lift height since you do have to hook up a driveshaft to the front output. With the new super high angle CV's it's not as big a deal as it used to be but those super driveshafts come with a price too.

The reason we do the 2" up rotation is to make the bottom of the 203 and the bottom of the 205 level which is that point you ask about where rotating it more doesn't do a lot of good. This also leaves you with reasonable driveshaft angles for the front with lifts around 6" or less.

This level should leave you with roughly 3" of t-case hanging below the frame rails, depending on how high you push the cases. Beck pushed his up to where his skidplate is less that 2" below the frame rail. This put more angle on the rear driveshaft but got more belly clearance so it's something you might consider.

Another point I keep coming to is that a super high belly pan is cool but the only time I've found it to be really necessary is going straight up huge ledges. The rest of the time I hang up on the framerail itself more than I hit the belly pan by a wide margin. I'm to the point now that I could drop the overall ride height because the belly is still plenty high and could come down some but the rest of the truck needs to stay up to keep the frame rails and some other contact points from hitting. Moral of the story, having the belly hang down a little doesn't seem to be as big a deal as long as it's armored.

 

[nova]

this leads to a good point. i am as we speak wondering what i'm going to do for a crossmember/skidplate. i have a 6.5" lift with a 1" body lift (7.5 total lift) a d60 and 14blt. and 2"doubler kit. i was thinking of pushing my t-cases up but not sure how far i can go before it was a problem, and the best way to build a crossmember/skidplate. what kind of bushings do i use or do i hard bolt it to the skid plate? /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
and who is beck, does he have pics or do any of you?

 

[Stephen]

Check this out:
Crossmember pics