Doubler cross member issues, any help is appreciated!! (Pictures)

[dawson444]

I am going to try to keep this short so I won’t end up with a book,
You can see pics of my current cross member situation at this link
http://community.webshots.com/album/152879476fKHaZV
I have the cross member mounted to the 203 adapter. I went to mount it to the doubler cross member and it won’t touch the frame, what should I do? If I put a floor jack under the cross member, the whole truck moves up.
The 205 is clocked level and I don’t have a body lift. I had to beat the body of my truck some to get the doubler to sit in there.
Is this gap between the cross member and the frame something that is normal?
Should I just fill it in with metal?
Should the cross member be sitting even with the frame?
Would the 4x4 Iron $85 cross member fix this problem?
Should I try to beat the floor more?
Should I just bite the bullet and install a 1” body lift?
Is it safe to drive my truck with only the single cross member mounted as long as I am easy on it? I know it isn’t safe to wheel.
I also am going to have my truck put up on a dyno in the next few days to have a computer chip burnt for it; do you think this single cross member will be ok for doing that?
I realize that as soon as one of these questions is answered, many of the other ones will make sense…Help with any of these questions is appreciated though! Thanks!

 

[Blazr77400]

I just used a shim. I am not sure what angle I made them too though. Here is a pic Link /forums/images/graemlins/truck.gif

 

[dawson444]

so you had the same problem I did?

 

[yunit]

I would just create a spacer for the time being. I made my own crossmember because I was not happy with the stock crossmembers.

 

[SCOOBYDANNN]

I had the same preble,m, but with not with the front crossmember. the rear crossmember wasnt't touching the frame because the frame started upwards right where the crossmember was. i ended up making some spacers and it has held up fine. I even jumped the truck a good 3 feet in the air and it held up fine.

 

[Stephen]

That's not an uncommon situation, just put a spacer in there to get it to bolt up solid and you'll be set. You can drive it with just the one crossmember but it leaves a lot of weight hanging on the back of the trans so don't do it for long. For the dyno run, I'd make sure you have both mounts set up and make sure you have some good stiff motor mounts. I'd recommend the comp style mounts or our HD replacement mounts. Stiff motor mounts seem to be key in keeping the transmission case together.

 

[Mudzer]

[ QUOTE ]
That's not an uncommon situation, just put a spacer in there to get it to bolt up solid and you'll be set. You can drive it with just the one crossmember but it leaves a lot of weight hanging on the back of the trans so don't do it for long. For the dyno run, I'd make sure you have both mounts set up and make sure you have some good stiff motor mounts. I'd recommend the comp style mounts or our HD replacement mounts. Stiff motor mounts seem to be key in keeping the transmission case together.

[/ QUOTE ]

Elaborate on that!!! I bought some solid motor mounts a while back and would like to get more feedback. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[dawson444]

I think he is just taking about the fact that it is bad to have a stiff t case mount and some loose motor mounts; b/c when you have that, you run the risk of breaking your tranny or adapter or something else b/c the motor can twist, but the tranny and t case can't.

 

[Stephen]

They're a little overdue but here are some pics:
crossmember pics

I don't know if I have any of my crossmember when it's not installed, I'll see if I can find it. It's 2x3x1/8th wall tube and uses our fab bushing assemblies to mount the Doubler adapter. The setup in Brandon's miniwally is actually suspended from a cage crossmember using 3 mounting points.

 

[supersize75k5]

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