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Doubler question

FRIZZLEFRY

1/2 ton status
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Clovis CA
I know its not available but could one build a doubler using 208?Im looking for why not to.Ive got 208s and I can get a 203.Could it be done with ORD parts?If not I have a machinist friend that makes dual case kits for a company and he said he could mate the two cases together.I would use a fixed yoke 208 cuz I think its a bit shorter than the slip yoke type.So what do yall think?

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Whether or not Stephan has the parts, I dunno, I'll let him answer. Whether or not you can put a NP203 in front of an NP208, there's no reason why it couldn't be done. The NP208 (like the NP241, and so-on - the aluminum 'cases) are generally all pretty long. Putting in an NP203 with the adaptors will likely add in the range of 8-10 inches in drivetrain length, depending on how the adaptors are designed, so you might not have the room, even with the fixed yoke NP208. Klune-V makes a planetary low range that is shorter - around 6 inches and change, I think, but you've still got a long T-case out the back.

Making a "doubler" out of an NP208 isn't as easy as out of the NP241 parts that Klune-V uses. There are some neat little bearings in there that need the correct preloads that make it difficult to get clearances bang on.

--Rob
 
My question is, WHY? The main advantage to the aluminum cases is the low range. They're not nearly as strong as 205s and 203s, so why wouldn't you want those two in your doubler setup? You're going to have an incredible low range anyway, so I wouldn't give up any strength.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
Ive got 208s .Ive never seen a 205 in any of the yards around here and I see 203s all the time .Most of the complaints I hear about the 208 are about the slip yoke .

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Why? Why not? No question about it, the NP203 and NP205 are gobs stronger than any aluminum case. That's why they're in my Blazer. But if you're running a small block, there is lots enough strength in the NP241 parts, even after the doubler to hold up to the torque. Additionally, the Klune-V is lots shorter. And lots lighter. The linkage is (somewhat) simpler, especially for the doubler, that can work off a simple cable.

For gear reduction, the NP208 is already 2.61:1, the NP241 is already 2.72:1. Run an NP203/NP205 doubler and you get roughly 4:1, which you can get for a single NP241. Run an NP203/NP208 combination and you're at ~5.22:1. Go NP241/NP241 and you're at ~7.4:1 in the T-cases. Get aftermarket gearsets for both NP241's and you're at 16:1, just in the T-cases. If you're worried about torque multiplication, then run a Klune-V, then an NP205 and you'll have 5.33, if you run the aftermarket gears in the Klune-V (NP241 parts) in front of an NP205, then you're at 7.84:1.

Wanna go slow? :-)

Chev NP205's are as rare as hen's teeth up here. I picked up one Ford NP205 for $10, another for $30, can get another for $30 (US$). They're pretty much giving away NP203's.

--Rob
 
I know where thers a divorced 205 in a ford right now and thats the only one Ive seen here.

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Where can I get info about a low gear set for an NP241?

What ratio are the new gears?

I have never heard of this for an NP241, but I would love to find out for my '90 K5!!!

Thanks!

Richard
Raleigh, NC
'90 K-5 Blazer - stock, daily driver
'76 K-5 Blazer - 14-bolt FF, 4.10's, locked front and rear, 36's, SM465/NP205
 
Phone the company that makes the Klune-V. I believe that they make the
lower gearsets too. There were different ratios available, like something like 3.6:1 and 4:1. When they first came out, the 4:1 sets were rather brittle/weak, but I haven't heard of any problems for a while. They make a complete front half for an NP231, but the gearsets can be installed into the NP241, NP242, and so-on.

--Rob
 
The only problem with the low gears for the 241 is that you no longer have 4 low.Your stuck with 4 high and 4:1 low.I made a post about the 4:1 241 gear set a while back and got a lot of info.Do a search on it .I think it was this month.

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Hmmm.....

My friend picked up an NP 205 and TH 350, both good, yesterday, for $125. Not bad, huh?

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
I couldnt be so lucky.That was a steal.

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He knows the guy that owns the junkyard, but even if he didn't, it could have been had for less than $200. I wish the good junkyards that had lots of 4x4 parts were so stupid as to sell stuff that cheap!

Is an NP 241 a straight bolt-in for the NP 208? I might consider one if mine ever goes. Might be nice to have a little bit lower low range.

Tim
'84 Chevy K10, lifted, loud, fast, and 3/4 ton axles
 
We can build the adapter to use the round pattern for the 208. Length is a problem in a K5. The 208 is too long already, the Doubler is a little shorter, the Doubler in front of a 208 would not work at all in a K5. It would add about 6 inches or so to the overall. A solid output may make it acceptable.

Strength is hard to gauge, it has a lot to do with the condition of the case. We tend to err on the strong side and recommend the 205.
The low would be nice, but I'm not sure how necessary it is. With a v8 and decent torque, I've been really happy with 4:1, and often use 2nd gear in the trans, or 2:1 in the transfer cases. I wouldn't be without a 2:1 low gear for playing in sloppy stuff. A 4:1 low is not useless, but close to it, when it comes to situations requiring wheelspin.

Good news is if the 208 won't hold up behind the Doubler, it can be swapped for a 205. The right one is hard to fine, but they do exist.

Making the world better, one truck at a time.
[image]http://coloradok5.com/logo_ordsmall.gif[/image]
SW-ORD
 
I kinda figured it would be too long but my friend got thinkin with the "we could make you a dual case set up".2:1 is cool but 4:1 would be awsome and I would like to have both.I would love to have a doubler but dont have a 205 or the cash right now for it .Thanks for the help everyone.

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