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Doubler Rotation... help me decide, quick please

Which rotation?

  • 203 Stock/205 flat

    Votes: 7 38.9%

  • 203 90*/205 flat

    Votes: 8 44.4%

  • 203 180*/205 flat

    Votes: 3 16.7%
  • Total voters
    18
sled_dog

sled_dog

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Time to order my doubler. I want to do it yet today so quick help is appreciated.

How should I order it? As of right now I'm thinking, 203 standard, and 205 clocked flat. This will make mounting easiest(2 mounting points on the same plane).

I could also order, 90* rotated 203, which would allow me to have my shifters on the same side(Chevy 203 and Ford 205).

Or I could order flipped over 203, which again would allow me to have shifters on the same side(not a big concern though), clearance, but pain in the ass to fab a mount, unless I tie into my cage seat cross bar.

So opinions?
 
I voted for the 90* 203....

But I would order whatever gets you the best clearance. Mounting both cases on the same plane would be nice, but since you have to fab a crossmember anyhow, a little more work wont hurt. And having the shifters ont he same side may save a little interior room.
 
Dont forget about the exhaust and driveshafts. You will run out of room fast when you turn the 203 90 and the 205 flat. You will end up with a y pipe and a super high $$$$ front shaft to run at the angle it will be at.

Just a thought.
 
I voted 90*, which is what I'm thinking about doing with mine. I may have a few other trick up my sleave on how I do mine, and front axle choice will make a BIG difference ;)

As for the high dollar front shaft with it clocked flat, it's not THAT bad bro. My current 241 is flat. A little grinding and a light turn on the axle and I'm good to go.

Order that sucker bro :D

KP
 
90* on the 203 and flat with the 205, I wish I did when I ordered mine. What company are you going with?
 
Depending on your lift, clocking the NP205 is just going to make your front driveline angle that much steeper. I got an ORD doubler and left it in stock configuration and I still have a very steep front angle with six inches of lift. You will also have to contend with the crossmember in the front. As it is, I am getting one built by a member here. If I had rotated my NP205, I'm not sure even the custom crossmember would've cleared.
 
people run clocked 205s all the time... I'm sure "it'd clear". Nothing better on a trail/rock rig than a flat belly. I'll probably keep my 203 oriented stock and clock the 205 until its flat. I run 4" of lift, have HAD shafts and my wheelbase is stretched.... shouldn't be a problem.

j
 
I have a High Pinion Ford Dana 60 that coupled with the low lift(52s setup pretty low IMO on the S10) driveshaft angularity is not a worry. Exhaust clearance is. A con of the 90* I forgot to note. I plan to run a single 3" exhaust down that side, but we shall see, maybe I will build headers outside of the frame rails. This is an S10 so space is kind of limited, though the frame really isn't THAT narrow.

I am going with a WMS doubler. Can't pass up the $500 for the month of October deal.
 
Everything considered, I am just going to get the standard rotation, flat 205 setup.

Interior room lost to the shifter is a non issue(its lost on the driver side, what do I care?). Worst thing there is reaching for the low range shifter.

THe gained clearance between the frame and non-intrusion into the interior are more important to me I think. I may live to regret that, but oh well.
 
surpip said:
thats why i am going NWF
no need to make that decision, i can do what i want
Click to expand...

You can do what you want with a WMS adapter too ;) All DCA's are customizable on order :D
 
Ya but with NWF i don't have to make a decision on order, i can set it up how i want it, and change it whenever i want
 
surpip said:
Ya but with NWF i don't have to make a decision on order, i can set it up how i want it, and change it whenever i want
Click to expand...

Gotcha bro. You're going with their new multi piece DCA. That's a pimp looking piece of work. I'm anxious to hear how it works out for people. I love the idea behind that one, and Kyle and the guys turn out some cool stuff!

We better see some post's about it when you get it installed :D

KP
 
Im running the nwf kit and love it. It is everything they say it is. Top quality and the customer service is great. Everything lined up and there was no leaks with any of it. Oh and the billet pto covers are pimpin. :D
 
Ordered the WMS setup, standard 203 rotation with flat 205. I think it will be just fine for me.

The guy I talked to, Carey(or Casey :doah: ) was great and ran through all the options on rotation but I still decided Standard was best for me. Can't wait to get it and put her together.
 
sled_dog said:
Ordered the WMS setup, standard 203 rotation with flat 205. I think it will be just fine for me.
Click to expand...

Take it Casey took good care of you?

Glad to hear it bro. :thumb:
 
For those running clocked NP205's, I wonder how they are dealing with their front pinion angle. With my 6 inches of lift, my pinion angle on my front D60 is horrible. I talked to Jesse at HAD and he says for trail use, I will probably be OK but only becase I will run a 1350 CV at the TC and a 1410 yoke down at the pinion. On the trail it won't be too much of a problem since the front is only engaged at low speeds. I can't see somebody with a NP203 running full time 4WD with that steep of an angle though. I also would wonder how somebody would run a clocked NP205 with the front 1310 CV and a D44 with stock pinion yoke. People run all kinds of things but eventually they can explode. I considered shimming the front to lessen the angle but then you put undue stress on the kinpins and everything else by rotating the whole axle. The ideal situation is to cut off the C's, rotate them, and weld them back on to keep the outers in stock position. But, if you rotate the pinion too far, then you can have oiling issues.
 
Undo stress on the kingpins?

SFA Chevys have about 7* of caster in their front axle setups. IMO that is a lot, I still haven't figured out why it is that way either, with a load the caster will only go farther positive. Only thing I can think is when the suspension compresses(leaf sprung anyway) the pinion goes a little less positive. But 7* worth even on our setups?

7* allows for a few degrees of play IMO. I'd say you can go to 4 or 5 and still be happy especially on trail only.

Steering is more difficult at higher amounts of Caster, not less.
 
I think I'd have to rotate my pinion 10 - 12 degrees up to get the front driveshaft lined up. That is a bit much. I thought about throwing on either a 2 or 4 degree shim to lessen the angle on the driveline but according to Jesse, it really isn't worth the trouble. I had to figure that I'll be driving without the front engaged 75 percent of the time anyway.
 
sled_dog said:
Undo stress on the kingpins?

SFA Chevys have about 7* of caster in their front axle setups. IMO that is a lot, I still haven't figured out why it is that way either, with a load the caster will only go farther positive. Only thing I can think is when the suspension compresses(leaf sprung anyway) the pinion goes a little less positive. But 7* worth even on our setups?

7* allows for a few degrees of play IMO. I'd say you can go to 4 or 5 and still be happy especially on trail only.

Steering is more difficult at higher amounts of Caster, not less.
Click to expand...
I have a 4 degree shim on my 60, and at 70 MPH i have no problems and the steering still tracks straight.
 
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