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Downfire box ?

hunterguy86

hunterguy86

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I'm going to build a downfire box for my 3 Fosgate P2 12's so I can still have some base when I have the top off.

Does anyone have diagrams of a downfire box?

How do yall secure the box in the blazer so it doesnt get stolen but still have it removeable?

I was thinking off installing carrage bolts in the box and bolting them through through the fenderwells or something along those lines so the nuts could be removed by taking off the top of the box and unbolting. I would be sure to use silicon around the hole where the bolts pass through the box and under the head of the bolt that is in the fenderwell.

Y'all got any other ideas?
 
subscribing...i'm also gonna be building a downfiring box and need to figure out a way to secure it to the floor or something so that it cant be stolen when the top is off. I've thought of using something thats not common in someone's toolbox, like square-drive screws to secure it. I dunno tho i wanna see what people suggest here
 
A simple way of securing is to just strip out the heads of the screws that you use. Did that back in the 80's. A strap and a tack weld will get rid of most badguys. A bolt through the floor with a nut and a little tack weld also works.

If you are booming with the top off you are going to attract attention. Nothing you can do will keep everyone from stealing your stuff. They may destroy it if they can't remove it. Either remove it when you remove the top, or get a really cheap box, like I have, of just deal with it. IMO it is not worth worrying about. If you are constantly checking on your truck, IT KINDA DEFEATS THE FUN PART.
 
had another thought today...They make latches for gates that has a hinged part that swings over a part that you bolt down, i guess what would be called the base. After the hinge has been swung over the base. you can put a lock through it. I've thought about using one on each side of the box, and have the bases riveted to the floor. that way i can lock it down, but can pull the locks out and take it out.
 
I used "L" brackets and hex head bolts to secure my box. Never had it stolen. But then again I used to leave my keys in the truck so if someone was gonna f*** with it they may as well take the whole thing.
 
Well I built it. However, my plan changed quite a bit. I decided to sell my 3 p2's because I wanted more space for tools and camping stuff.

I built a downfire box for 1 Rockford HX2 12 that I've had for a while. I will be running this sub off of my fosgate 1001bd, which pushes 500 watts rms at 4 ohms.

Pics to come later today.
 
I'm trying to figure out the same thing in my 1st Gen.

I don't want boxes that show (at all) show I was trying to come up with a solution to use the cavities below the truck and outboard of the framerails. I could fabricate maybe 1.5 cubes worth of space on each side, but I still need to figure out how to install the speaker so it doesn't get stepped on, or wet when it rains..... a downfiring box might work (with the "port" facing out under the front seats), but the structure to create that shape would probably be too massive to fit in the space I'm allocating.... :thinking:
 
Here's the box my buddies and I built.

This shot is of the bottom of the box.

n29600599_34112922_3212.jpg


This is another view of the box.

n29600599_34112921_2915.jpg


Here is the sub waiting to go in it.

n29600599_34112925_4104.jpg



And here is a shot of the box drying outside my house.

n29600599_34112926_4406.jpg
 
Hunterguy, what did you use to cover the box (the 'drying' pic)? Looks like you stucco'd it. :D

The box looks good to me, proportions look good (so I assume box size is right), not built to close to the floor, left adequate space for the sound to escape from under the box without turning into a port... looks like a solid design to me.

I assume the white stuff on the outside was wood filler to smooth it out? If you want/need to seal a box using caulk/silicone/whatever, Id recommend doing it on the inside seams. Like I say, I assume the stuff on the outside of your box is simply for looks...?

Nice job man. :)
 
chevyin said:
Hunterguy, what did you use to cover the box (the 'drying' pic)? Looks like you stucco'd it. :D

The box looks good to me, proportions look good (so I assume box size is right), not built to close to the floor, left adequate space for the sound to escape from under the box without turning into a port... looks like a solid design to me.

I assume the white stuff on the outside was wood filler to smooth it out? If you want/need to seal a box using caulk/silicone/whatever, Id recommend doing it on the inside seams. Like I say, I assume the stuff on the outside of your box is simply for looks...?

Nice job man. :)
Click to expand...

The stuff on the outside of the box is herculiner. I had some left over after doing the cargo area of the K5 so I used it on the box. Mostly it's for looks but I figure it will help the box from getting beat up.

The white stuff was silicon caulk. I sealed the box at the seams inside and out. No air leaks here.

The box is 14"x14"x11" internal. That gives me 1.25 sq feet before sub displacement. This sub wants 1.25 so technically it's a hair on the small side but it sounds good, which is OK by me. There is a 2" gap at the bottom of the box. This gives enough room for the sub to mount and plenty of travel room before it reaches xmax.

The sub sounds really clean and is pretty loud for 1 12. I am very happy the install and thanks for the props.
 
chevyin said:
... not built to close to the floor, left adequate space for the sound to escape from under the box without turning into a port... looks like a solid design to me.
Click to expand...

Is there a ratio or formula to calculate the space away from the floor??? That it one of the things that would help me figure out what I can fit and still make it hidden... :thinking:
 
Greg72 said:
Is there a ratio or formula to calculate the space away from the floor??? That it one of the things that would help me figure out what I can fit and still make it hidden... :thinking:
Click to expand...
I imagine there is... somewhere. :D I seem to recall reading that a 1/4 of the diameter of the cone should suffice, much like a loading board... but I dunno, I just like making sure there is enough room it wont 'port'.
 
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