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Dr. Watson Any news on Dana 60 Highsteer arms?

F

Flexy K20

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I talked to you about 2 months ago and you said you were working on building highsteer arms, but didn't know
when they would be ready. I was curious if you possibly had a better idea now. I am going to be getting a set
real soon and I would like to see yours before I buy someone elses. Let me know. Thanks /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
-fLeXy K20
 
I'm curious to hear/see an update on this as well....

Ive been waiting for the "ORD Seal of Approval" on high-steer as a viable solution.

Once I see that, it will be time to pony up the cash!!!


/forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
D60HiSteerarms.JPG


You mean like these?

They do work, but have limitations. We've designed them to have the tierod as far out as possible but it still increases the stress on the tie rod by about 39%. This means you will also have 39% more movement from loose tierod ends which helps add to wobble problems. The tierod stress isn't such a big deal, we can handle that, the wobble could be a problem in some vehicles.
That said, a 39% increase seems like it's a bunch better than most, I've seen arms out there that are in the neighborhood of a 48% or more increase in stress.

So, if the increased possibility of wobble is worth the tie rod clearance to you, this is the best way to go. If you want maximum drivability, put a heavy tierod on it in the stock location and call it good. Either way, now we have you covered.
 
[ QUOTE ]
D60HiSteerarms.JPG


You mean like these?

They do work, but have limitations. We've designed them to have the tierod as far out as possible but it still increases the stress on the tie rod by about 39%. This means you will also have 39% more movement from loose tierod ends which helps add to wobble problems. The tierod stress isn't such a big deal, we can handle that, the wobble could be a problem in some vehicles.
That said, a 39% increase seems like it's a bunch better than most, I've seen arms out there that are in the neighborhood of a 48% or more increase in stress.

So, if the increased possibility of wobble is worth the tie rod clearance to you, this is the best way to go. If you want maximum drivability, put a heavy tierod on it in the stock location and call it good. Either way, now we have you covered.

[/ QUOTE ]

:drool:

So what is the price on those beefy pieces of machined metal goodness?
 
Hey those look familiar! I was hoping you would autograph my arms before you sent them.
 
!!! SOLD !!!! /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif


Is there any way (for you) to rework my existing ORD Crossover Arm and have me buy the rest of the parts....or is the PS arm completely different?

It doesn't really matter, I'm sure the "resale" on an ORD D60 Crossover arm is pretty good!!!!
 
Unfortunately, we can't re-do the old arms, to put the tie rod up the profile is re-shaped to leave enough beef around the hole and the tie rod hole is moved out to keep the factory ackerman angle. So they're similar but different enough that it won't work.
Otherwise the standard draglink works, that geometry hasn't changed.
 
Stephen,
Do you have (on the shelf) a 1" spacer for D60 arms?

Also, would you see any difficulties using high steer arms with a 1" spacer?

thanks, todd
 
[ QUOTE ]
Unfortunately, we can't re-do the old arms, to put the tie rod up the profile is re-shaped to leave enough beef around the hole and the tie rod hole is moved out to keep the factory ackerman angle. So they're similar but different enough that it won't work.
Otherwise the standard draglink works, that geometry hasn't changed.

[/ QUOTE ]

so i can ad the hysteer arms to my existing ORD x-over kit and be good to go? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]


so i can ad the hysteer arms to my existing ORD x-over kit and be good to go? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]


Zakk,


......I'll be sure to let you know. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]


so i can ad the hysteer arms to my existing ORD x-over kit and be good to go? /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

[/ QUOTE ]




Zakk,


......I'll be sure to let you know. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif




[/ QUOTE ]

/forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

did you order them already? or are they going to be next day priority 8 am FedEx? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
We don't build any 1" spacers at this point, we actually haven't seen much use for them yet. For taller lifts (10" and up) we often recommend using the 2.5 or 3" block so it flattens out the angle but for anything shorter we like to bolt the arm right to the knuckle. Do you have problems hitting the springs?
The other thing to watch is arm height can vary, the thinner arms will leave the tierod sitting lower, and if you have deeper tapers in the arm is will drop the tierod also.

Zakk, you can re-use the draglink but you'll need new arms for both sides and the tie rod.
 
You'll probably be fine with the D60, the arm is a bit taller and knuckle is taller. I recall seeing a picture of one of our arms on a truck with zero rates and it still worked so I think you're fine. That pic is probably still on this page if you can come up with a way to search for it.
 
Are these arms ok to use with Hydro Assist or will I be prone to breaking the knuckle if I went that way?

Dave Cowley
 
It's a lot of stress on the tops but it does work. Mine's set up that way and has held together so far. Probably not a perfect situation but it works.
 
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