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Drac

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Ok, I have another post going about doing Autometer gauges and i've run into a delima involving the VSS and I think the solution might be to change over to a DRAC instead as then it appears I could run the electric Autometer speedo off of it as well as having the DRAC to keep my ECM happy and my cruise control working. Has anyone converted from a VSS that was plugged into the back of the speedo to a DRAC and if so how would I go about doing this?
 
I think the easiest and cleanest would be to change out the speedometer drive/driven gears with a reluctor/speed sensor. Wire the DRAC appropriately.
 
Seeing as you have an NP241 and are changing your instruments out anyways, I'd tend to say that switching to a tone ring VSS is probably your best option no matter how you look at it.

Right now, as you probably know, you have an optical speed sensor that takes a reading off the two spinning blades in your mechanical speedometer head which produces the 2000 PPM (pulse per mile) signal used by your cruise control and your ECM. The DRAC will completely replace your current optical speed sensor, giving you much better reliability and more importantly, the ability to re-calibrate at will.

I'll start off by covering the swap from a speedometer gear drive assembly to a tone ring assembly in the transfer case.

You will need to remove your rear drive shaft, and both the long nose cone and the shorter cover which contains the output shaft bearing and also your driven speedometer gear. To remove it, you'll need only basic hand tools including a socket set, and a pair of HD snap ring pliers. The bigger nose cone simply un-bolts and pops off the back of the shorter bearing retaining cover. I had to use a rubber mallet to break it free. Before you can remove the shorter cover, you will need to remove the driven speedometer gear from it. Then it too simply un-bolts and pops off. You'll see the speedometer drive gear is retained by a large & thick snap ring. My pliers were too wussy to get it off, so I had to pry it off with a couple flat blade screw drivers. Once it is off, you can just slip the drive gear off the output shaft.

Reassembly is the exact opposite, except you need to replace the drive gear with a 40 tooth tone ring and you must replace the bearing retainer cover with one that is threaded for a VSS. Midaswell replace the output shaft seal while you have the nose cone off too.

Electrical is pretty straight forward. You'll need to supply the DRAC with an ignition power feed, and a solid ground. To supply the DRAC with the VSS signal, you simply run two wires down to the VSS and terminate them directly to the DRAC (AC signal, polarity does not matter). The DRAC then has several outputs on it that can be used by various systems on your truck including several 2000 PPM signals to be used by the ECM and your cruise control, several 4000 PPM signals to be used by your new Autometer speedometer / newer cruise control systems, and finally a 128 000 PPM signal to be used by the ABS system on so equipped trucks. Connecting the DRAC to each device entails simply running a single signal wire to each device's appropriate terminal.

Now, the really handy part about the DRAC is the ability to very accurately calibrate them to match any tire / gearing combination. I'll let the following website describe it much better than I can. Also note that there are a couple different types of DRACs used throughout the years. I found it easiest to install the DIP switches on the older 90/91 version of it vs having to install two DIP switch assemblies on the newer DRACs.

http://www.tbichips.com/drac/

Finally, I've attached a pin out for the DRAC modules to this thread that I made up a while back to help out with the wiring. Your ECM uses pin A10 to take a 2000 PPM signal from the DRAC, and is brown in color on TBI trucks. You should be able to find that wire hanging off the back of your current optical speed sensor. I believe the cruise control wire is yellow, and it also uses a 2000 PPM signal in your year of truck.

Keep in mind that there are conflicting diagrams for which pin is which signal on the DRAC. You'll know right away, however, if you run a 4000k signal to your cruise control. It will be very lurchy (on and off the throttle all the time) and will activate below 25 mph / won't activate over 55 mph. If you run a 2k signal to your speedometer, it will read 1/2 speed, if you run a 4k signal to your ECM, it will read double speed when you scan it. The power, ground and two VSS pins I know are correct. I believe I have my speedometer connected to the very top 4k signal pin, and it works fine.

Good luck, and let me know if there is anything else I can help with.

DRAC.JPG
 
Thanks Russ, that doesn't sound too hard to do. I'm running a SYE on my 241 and I did not install it so I don't know exactly what is/isn't there. I know the long tail housing gets replaced by the SYE/seal retainer.

The only other thing is that Autometer does not offer a 5" electric speedo that reads 0-120mph and I think it is silly to use the 0-160mph speedo for obvious reasons so i'm up the in the about what I want to do at this point.

About the DRAC unit, when I remove the optical sensor are all the wires that were plugged into it just a matter of terminating those to the DRAC in the proper place and then running the 2 wires from the VSS sensor in the t-case up to the DRAC as well and then i'm done?
 
Scott, you have a different vss setup, but my electric automated speedo has an input for the vss signal and an output that goes right to the ECM. Maybe your new speedo has a similar connection?
 
Scott, you have a different vss setup, but my electric automated speedo has an input for the vss signal and an output that goes right to the ECM. Maybe your new speedo has a similar connection?

Brian, I don't yet have the speedo i'm going to run (not sure which one i'm going to use yet). The whole reason for this post is because I have to change from the current VSS style I have now since it needs a speedo cable to work.

What speedo are you running, wasn't it an Autometer?
 
Yes, it's an autometer sport-comp, 5" electric. Can't find the part number at the moment, but it takes a single vss signal from the transfer case driven vss module and has a single output that goes to the ECM. Pretty easy to set up in my case, but I don't know how all the tone rings and drac stuff works so your on your own there. I remember that the speedo itself could take a range of ppm numbers and still work ok.
 
Russ, would this style of VSS work for me as well if I decide to run a speedo with a cable (i'm really wanting a 0-120mph speedo). I know I would still need the DRAC but this way I would still run a cable speedo. If so how do these work (are they electric to make the cable drive move).

VSS with cable drive.jpg
 
Yes, it's an autometer sport-comp, 5" electric. Can't find the part number at the moment, but it takes a single vss signal from the transfer case driven vss module and has a single output that goes to the ECM. Pretty easy to set up in my case, but I don't know how all the tone rings and drac stuff works so your on your own there. I remember that the speedo itself could take a range of ppm numbers and still work ok.

That would make it an Autometer #3989 that reads 0-160 mph.
 
Ok, I hit up the wrecking yard today and for $40.00 I got the rear tail housing off the t-case along with the tone ring, and I also grabbed the DRAC module along with about 12" of the wiring/connectors unfortunately someone had already cut the wiring that went down to the sensor on the tail housing so that is the only piece I have left to get tomorrow. This all came from a 91 Burb.
 
And all he was going to do was change his speedometer..........
 
Its the Digital Ration Adapter Controller, everybody knows that.....
OK, OK, here.

Digital Ration Adapter Controller (DRAC) and Vehicle Speed Sensor Buffer (VSSB) are both electronic devices that simply convert the input AC signal (from the VSS) to a calibrated digital DC signal. The DRAC sends 2,000 digital pulses per mile to the ECM (Electronic Control Module), 4,000 digital pulses per mile to the cruise control module, and 128,000 digital pulses per mile to the ABS (Anti-Lock Brake) computer. The DRAC and VSSB units are pre-calibrated from the factory according to the vehicle's stock gear ratio, and tire size. But, it can be re-calibrated by simply moving jumpers around. 1990-1991 vehicles should have the DRAC, and 1992-1995 vehicles should have the VSSB unit. The main difference between the DRAC unit and the VSSB unit (from what I can tell) is that the VSSB unit has an extra "bank" of 7 jumpers in addition to the same bank of 7 jumpers that the DRAC unit has. I would assume this extra bank of jumpers is for the electronically controlled transmission that GM started using in 1992.
 
Russ, would this style of VSS work for me as well if I decide to run a speedo with a cable (i'm really wanting a 0-120mph speedo). I know I would still need the DRAC but this way I would still run a cable speedo. If so how do these work (are they electric to make the cable drive move).

To answer your question, yes, it certainly would work for you. That said, I would question the long term reliability / accuracy of it.

And yes, all you really need to do is take the wires that are currently terminated to your optical sensor, connect them to the appropriate pin on the new DRAC, supply the DRAC with 12V ign / grnd and run the two wires down to the VSS on the tone ring.
 
Russ, would this style of VSS work for me as well if I decide to run a speedo with a cable (i'm really wanting a 0-120mph speedo). I know I would still need the DRAC but this way I would still run a cable speedo. If so how do these work (are they electric to make the cable drive move).


That particular sensor outputs a 4 pulse per revolution signal and will not work with a DRAC. The DRAC is designed to work with a 40 pulse per revolution signal. The original optical sensor on your current speedo is a 2 pulse per revolution square wave signal. For more info look here:

http://www.jagsthatrun.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Speedometer.html


I would personally pass on the whole DRAC mess and go with a simple sensor that will thread onto your existing speedo drive in the t-case and run both the new speedometer and the TBI computer. #1 in the above link will get you what you need. You can cap the unused end of the sensor since you won't need a speedo cable any more.

The Auto Meter speedos can be easily programmed to work with just about any sensor, gear ratio, tire size combination you can dream up.
 
Ok Russell, the DRAC I got from the wrecking yard today has these colored wires in the locations as such. Can you give me a heads up on which wire colors need to hook up to the VSS on the t-case (read that it doesn't matter which wire goes to which terminal)?

I got this info from www.Jagsthatrun.com

1. The two-pulse (2000 pulses per mile) square wave (D.C current or direct current) used on all TBI​
engines thru 1992, all computer-controlled-carbureted engines, and on 1985-1989 TPI engines.

I would assume that I would use either the Lt. Blue or Brown 2000 PPM wire for the Autometer speedo? This is what Autometer says about signal....
Speedometer Senders​
The speedometer is designed to operate with an electrical speed sender. The speed sender signal range must be between 500 and 400,000
pulses/mile (310 and 248,500 pulses/km). Any speed sender or electronic module that meets the following two conditions can be used:
1. Pulse rate generated is proportional to vehicle speed.
2. Output voltage within the ranges listed below:
• 4 to 16V (Hall effect sender, 3-wire)
• 4 to 120V peak to peak into a 10K ohm load (Sine wave generator, 2-wire)
• 5V Square wave (TTL)
Recommended – Auto Meter Hall effect sender, 3-wire 16 pulses/revolution.
5291 Standard 7/8 – 18 thread
5292 Ford, plug in​


DRAC.JPG
 
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