bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I'm running the ORD d44 crossover witha 4" lift and am planning a d60 swap. Can I keep my draglink and use it with the d60 steering arms?
CK5
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drag link difference between d44 and d60 crossover
- Thread starter bp71k5
- Start date
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
I believe that the D44 one is longer than the D60. So, you'll have to have it cut down & re-threaded, but it should still work once that is done.
Don't know that for sure, though. Definitely the right place to ask though.
Later,
Buddy
Don't know that for sure, though. Definitely the right place to ask though.
Later,
Buddy
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Any chance you know how much longer? In case it wasn't obvious, I plan to get the ORD crossover steering arm for the d60 and not try and attach it to the stock GM arm. 
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I guess I can just try it and see how much longer it is. If the only difference is the length, I can cut my existing arm down a bit. I'll just have to make sure not to cut much off the left-handed thread side.
Are the TRE's the same between the d44 and d60 versions?
BUDDY
1/2 ton status
Just cut down the right side. It's easy to have re-threaded that way & you still need the z-bend on the left side the way that it is.
I'll tell you what, you take the measurements once you get it all done that way we'll all know from now on.
Thanks in advance,
buddy
I'll tell you what, you take the measurements once you get it all done that way we'll all know from now on.
Thanks in advance,
buddy
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I'll just ask about it when I order and get whatever is needed. I'll post up about any differences I find.
Someone on here a while back said that some of the draglinks were left hand threaded on the "bent side" and some were left hand threaded on the "straight side". You would need to make certain that the right hand thread is on the "straight side" so you could easily cut the threads and retap, if the right hand threads are on the "bent side" then it's not so easy to just cut since that will change the location of the "bent side" and may interfere with crossmember or something else.
Depending on the length difference you might get away with cutting a small amount of each end instead and no retapping required depending on which ends you're going to run. The ES2010L and ES2010R ends are the shortest and are 7/8-18 thread.
Depending on the length difference you might get away with cutting a small amount of each end instead and no retapping required depending on which ends you're going to run. The ES2010L and ES2010R ends are the shortest and are 7/8-18 thread.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Believe me, I'll be quadruple checking everything before the cutoff wheel comes out of it's box.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Small update. The straight side of my drag link is the left hand threads. Bummer.
I'll have to figure out what the length difference is as well as how much extra thread is on that side to determine if I can cut it instead of getting a new drag link.
I can't cut much from the steering box side since there's not much straight length left there to cut before the bend starts. If theres any more than a 1" difference in length, I'll just order a new drag link along with the other parts.
I'll have to figure out what the length difference is as well as how much extra thread is on that side to determine if I can cut it instead of getting a new drag link.
I can't cut much from the steering box side since there's not much straight length left there to cut before the bend starts. If theres any more than a 1" difference in length, I'll just order a new drag link along with the other parts.
Hmm, i could measure my draglink then you'll know the difference. 
Ok, just went and measured and from end to end straight across is 38"
Ok, just went and measured and from end to end straight across is 38"
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Hmm, is the 38" from the ends of the tube, or from the center of each TRE end?
I measured my current link to be:
The tube alone is 40" end to end
The whole thing with TRE's included is 43.5" from the center to center of each TRE thread.
It looks like I need 2" out of there. I'm sure I can cut 1/2" off each side, but I'd be surprised if I can get 1" off the steering box side. My wallet is starting to hurt...
I measured my current link to be:
The tube alone is 40" end to end
The whole thing with TRE's included is 43.5" from the center to center of each TRE thread.
It looks like I need 2" out of there. I'm sure I can cut 1/2" off each side, but I'd be surprised if I can get 1" off the steering box side. My wallet is starting to hurt...
That is 38" from end of tube to end of tube not including the TRE's.
Maybe ORD would be willing to retap your left side if you cut the draglink to size and ship it to them. That tap is VERY expensive and HARD to find. Would definately be cheaper than another draglink i would think.
On second thought, it may be more feasible to just buy the correct draglink and sell yours. By the time you pay shipping both ways and then also pay to have it retapped you might not be too far from the price of a new one.
Maybe ORD would be willing to retap your left side if you cut the draglink to size and ship it to them. That tap is VERY expensive and HARD to find. Would definately be cheaper than another draglink i would think.
On second thought, it may be more feasible to just buy the correct draglink and sell yours. By the time you pay shipping both ways and then also pay to have it retapped you might not be too far from the price of a new one.
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