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drag link ends..

86Cucvbeater

86Cucvbeater

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which end is better. first one is ORD, second one is UFO. UFO is cheaper and ill prolly go with his but why does ORD use the other kind? school me please, my draglink with heims got bent so i need to order another one quick, figured i'd ask u guys what u use

D60armendview.JPG

draglink.jpg
 
works now...definetly the first one
 
why? which ones are the ES2026R and ES2027L's? those are the ones to get i hear. also, why do some guys want both ends right hand threaded? some benefit?
 
86Cucvbeater said:
why? which ones are the ES2026R and ES2027L's? those are the ones to get i hear. also, why do some guys want both ends right hand threaded? some benefit?
Click to expand...
the reason why is the end itself is much shorter making it stronger and less prone to damgage.
 
79k20350 said:
the reason why is the end itself is much shorter making it stronger and less prone to damgage.
Click to expand...
damage from what? lol bending i guess. but anyone actually bent one of these tre's on a draglink??
 
Definately the top pic, it is an ES2010L and an ES2010R. They are a 7/8" x 18 thread and the shortest ends you can get which makes them much stronger than the other ones which are known to bend fairly easy.
 
i found a site that answered some questions. might be helpful to others

http://www.partsmikeparts.com/tre_comparison.htm

thanks 4x4high i found the info i guess the same time as u posted that. i saw in another post u bought from trevor at wfo but it seems he sells the ES2026R and ES2027L which as i understand now, are weak. did u get your tres somewhere else? you said the top pic are the ES2010's but on the ORD site they say they use GM 1 Ton TRE's. in the parts mike link it says the ES2010R & L tie rod ends came stock in Dodge W250/W350s. i wonder if i could just go to napa and get a set. just what vehicle to i get them for chevy or dodge?
 
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My first set of TRE's came from ORD and they are the ES2010L/R my next set i bought from my work. The ES2010L/R are what are the strongest ends and they are actually Dodge ends and not Chevy ends.
 
4X4HIGH said:
My first set of TRE's came from ORD and they are the ES2010L/R my next set i bought from my work. The ES2010L/R are what are the strongest ends and they are actually Dodge ends and not Chevy ends.
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Do u know what years the ES2010's came in the dodge trucks? i would like to compare their price locally with the 85 blazer TRE's.
 
I have no idea what the year application is but the parts store can give you a price by using the part number.
 
Trevor at UFO replyed back to my emails and cleared up some things.

Trevor <[email protected]> wrote:
Jason,
You need the bent draglink to clear your cross-member. I only
sell the 1.5"x.219 Wall DOM draglinks now. They are CNC bent, and then
have inserts welded in each end. They will not bend or break. They are
$95. I have them in stock and ready to ship.
As far as the ends, Off-Road Designs sells the shorter ends.
They are made by Tera. They were designed to replace the Chevy 2010L
and 2010R. I sell them also, they are $35.99 each, and come with the
jamb nut. If you try to buy that part # at your local parts store, it
will not work. The stock 2010's do not generate enough angle for a
draglink. They only pivot around 15 degrees. They will bind and wear
out. I use stock draglink ends most of the time. Those are the long
ones that you see on the internet. They will get to around 40 degrees
of angle. They have a double pivot ball socket, so they will not bind.
The part #'s are ES2026R, ES2027L. They do not come with jamb nuts. I
sell the jamb nuts for $5 each. I usually try to sell the customer on
the stock ones, so they can easily be found at any parts store. If you
use the Tera ones, you have to buy them from a shop. It works out to be
about the same price when you add the cost of the jamb nuts. The other
nice thing about the stock long ones for guys on a budget, is that when
they go to crossover, they can simply re-use the draglink ends that are
on their stock push and pull setup.
I hope this isn't too much info for you. Let me know if you
have any other questions. Trevor WFO

next..

Trevor <[email protected]> wrote:
The 2010 can be found on both Chevy and Dodge trucks. I don’t think it is any weaker or stronger. Parts mike is not wrong, he is just leaving some info out. We both get all of our rod ends from the same place. We work together all the time. Any rod end will bend if you hit it directly on something. I find it pretty hard to hit your draglink on something. If you are worried about it bending, you should go with the Tera style 2010’s. They are short, as well as matching. If you were in a bind, you could go to a local parts house and get a standard 2010 to get you out of somewhere. You could then replace it with the Tera style 2010 that has the angularity that you need. Trevor, WFO

​
next..

Trevor <[email protected]> wrote:
Their statement is correct, it doesn’t really matter if you have 2 rt hand thread ends. However, those ES2234R ends are just standard chevy tierod ends. They won’t get the angle that you need on a draglink. It is their cheap and easy way out. You wouldn’t want those ends. Trevor WFO

hope the info can help someone!:wink1:
 
Well, i don't know what to tell you other then the off the shelf ES2010L/R's that i bought from my work (car quest) are a double pivot ball and they have plenty of angularity.

EDIT: I re-read your original post and you said your draglink with heim ends got bent. Does this mean you drilled out the taper in your knuckles or steering arms to accept a bolt if so then you cannot go back to TRE's unless you replace the knuckles/steering arms so that they will have the correct taper in them again.
 
4X4HIGH said:
EDIT: I re-read your original post and you said your draglink with heim ends got bent. Does this mean you drilled out the taper in your knuckles or steering arms to accept a bolt if so then you cannot go back to TRE's unless you replace the knuckles/steering arms so that they will have the correct taper in them again.
Click to expand...

Or you could weld fill, drill and then retaper.

Ira
 
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