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Drag link question.

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Venanzi85

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Have a drag link question to ask. Changing out drag links on my truck I ordered the super lift drag links the other 2 pictures is what’s set up on it now, question is what I bought will it work or do I just need to get the ones like on my truck. It does have about a 4 inch lift on it

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Don't need that with the lift arm you have. Arm is normally held on with conical washer and studs. Is that a spacer under the arm?
 
That arm and spacer equal enough steering correction for about 7" of lift. It's hard to tell from the pics but does your drag link currently have an upward slant going towards the steering arm? The drag link should have just a slight downward slant with the pitman arm being the highest point.

You definitely do not need additional corrective parts like that drop drag link from Summit.
 
nvrenuf said:
That arm and spacer equal enough steering correction for about 7" of lift. It's hard to tell from the pics but does your drag link currently have an upward slant going towards the steering arm? The drag link should have just a slight downward slant with the pitman arm being the highest point.

You definitely do not need additional corrective parts like that drop drag link from Summit.
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It does, and thank you for you’re input I will just send it back and get just the standard drag link ends that are on it now
 
Upon further review....

The drag link might be a good purchase. If it were mine and because a slight downward slant from the pitman arm is what you want, I think I'd remove the 3" spacer block and reevaluate the current drag link's angle. If it ends up with more than an inch or so of downward slant (I think it will) then I'd put either a 2" drop drag link or a 2" drop pitman arm on it. I think you're at that fine line where it's going to be tough to get to the sweet spot of drag link angle.

You definitely need to address the upward slant because there's probably contact or bind at the steering arm end at full right turn.

Of course, the ideal answer is to get crossover steering but that can get expensive.
 
@Venanzi85 this might be a good solution - http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/products/1-pm0010-arm-spacer Substitute the 1" block in place of your current 3" block, this might get you to the sweet spot of drag link slant.

Let's see if I can write this so it makes sense - If you are pointing up now, then 1" of drop would get you close to level and an additional 1" drop (2" total at this point) would get the drag link to the downward slope like most people suggest. You currently have a 3" block so the 1" block might achieve the difference you need.
 
nvrenuf said:
@Venanzi85 this might be a good solution - http://www.partsmike.com/index.php/products/1-pm0010-arm-spacer Substitute the 1" block in place of your current 3" block, this might get you to the sweet spot of drag link slant.

Let's see if I can write this so it makes sense - If you are pointing up now, then 1" of drop would get you close to level and an additional 1" drop (2" total at this point) would get the drag link to the downward slope like most people suggest. You currently have a 3" block so the 1" block might achieve the difference you need.
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Thank you I’ll look into this, I will also send more photos as soon as I can. This truck did have 3 inch body blocks on it as well however I got those taken off months ago w new body mounts and hardware so now I’m trying to address the steering.
 
Venanzi85 said:
Thank you I’ll look into this, I will also send more photos as soon as I can. This truck did have 3 inch body blocks on it as well however I got those taken off months ago w new body mounts and hardware so now I’m trying to address the steering.
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the body blocks don't affect the steering parts you are showing at the axle
 
!!!!! Your brake line is rubbing on your drag link, that is super dangerous, the brake line could pop and put you in a bad situation. That hairpin type cotter pin is incorrect for that application. You need to put a split type in there and bend it over, for safety's sake. Your new drag link ends should come with the proper hardware.

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cheavyk10 said:
!!!!! Your brake line is rubbing on your drag link, that is super dangerous, the brake line could pop and put you in a bad situation. That hairpin type cotter pin is incorrect for that application. You need to put a split type in there and bend it over, for safety's sake. Your new drag link ends should come with the proper hardware.

View attachment 411799
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I’m well aware thank you, it’s not been driven replacing all necessary parts at moment
 
just curious, is that steering block 2" or 3"? I was going to ask if they were made together (Skyjacker made one) but looking at the pictures it seems they are not.
years ago the steering block was the first method that came out to correct the steering; then the raised arm came out. people would combine them when they got over 7" of lift or more as @nvrenuf pointed out.

I think the remedy in this situation is more lift and tire. :pimp1:
 
fourwheelerjeff said:
just curious, is that steering block 2" or 3"? I was going to ask if they were made together (Skyjacker made one) but looking at the pictures it seems they are not.
years ago the steering block was the first method that came out to correct the steering; then the raised arm came out. people would combine them when they got over 7" of lift or more as @nvrenuf pointed out.

I think the remedy in this situation is more lift and tire. :pimp1:
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Haha currently it has a 4 inch lift and 35inch tires just trying to correct steering at the moment, rather not do any more lift as I just recently took off the 3 inch body blocks that were on it
 
Are you sure it's only 4" of lift? Please reference the threads about how to measure from axle to frame to determine real lift. A raised steering arm is all you need at 4".

When the tires are pointed straight ahead, the pitman arm should be perpendicular to the frame. Your pics make it look like that's not the case, but it's hard to tell. This is important for steering feel on the road and full left-to-right range of motion.
 
Blue85 said:
Are you sure it's only 4" of lift? Please reference the threads about how to measure from axle to frame to determine real lift. A raised steering arm is all you need at 4".

When the tires are pointed straight ahead, the pitman arm should be perpendicular to the frame. Your pics make it look like that's not the case, but it's hard to tell. This is important for steering feel on the road and full left-to-right range of motion.
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The blazer is parked straight I will do more research, thank you maybe I should get this pitman arm as well

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