draglink help

[blazinzuk]

why are the bends going to be after the spring?

No room for gussets. Probably still going to hit the springs when turning.

When you bend a drag link like that you realize it will do absolutely nothing for bump steer. All the drag link sees is point a and point b.

It will act better than the super short drag link that comes stock. But you will still have bump steer because it does nothing to correct the angles

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

this is what i will look like and it will attach like the picture. it wont be as dramatic because i dont have that big of a lift.

Turn the wheel all the way to the left, look at where your factory tie rod connection is on the passenger side.

Aside from everything else going on with this kind of steering, I think you'll see why that won't work by cycling the steering.

 

[4X4HIGH]

This has DISASTER written ALL over it.

 

[dangerdog]

Saving a few bucks by not getting the steering nuckle is silly to me. Cobbed up steering is like playing russian roulett.

 

[Fred_M1010]

this is how mine was bent, but will not work with what you have. It would occasionally rub the leafs, with yours higher than this its gonna go straight into the leafs.

Why wouldn't that work for 73redblaze?
He's got his tie-rod on the under side if I understand it right...?
so shouldn't the drag-link fit between the tie-rod and the leaf, if he bends it like yours

 

[NorCal_Chris]

Why wouldn't that work for 73redblaze?
He's got his tie-rod on the under side if I understand it right...?
so shouldn't the drag-link fit between the tie-rod and the leaf, if he bends it like yours

because mine was attached at the same level as the tie rod, and it almost hit the springs. his is attached above the tie rod hole raising it that extra inch or so, putting it right into the spring.

 

[scrappyk5]

yea i have about 5" to play with.

 

[Hogback Fabrication]

The vertical offset of the two draglink connections, regardless of how the draglink is bent, is what determine how the truck will drive. Running the draglink down to the tie rod or factory tie rod connection will introduce plenty of bump steer on any lifted truck.

Now the real issue with the draglinks discussed here is the material used and the bends involved. With our standard 1.25" .250" wall DOM draglink material we don't use more than a 2.5" offset. The bends discussed here have MUCH more than that and with a lesser material.

For really tall lifted trucks we design custom draglinks that use more than 2.5" offset, for those we use our HD tie rod material which is 1.5" .375" wall DOM tubing.

So to sum it up, you want to keep the draglink as flat as possible, that's why we steer off of the top of the knuckle, and you want as little offset in the draglink as possible (i.e. the more vertical offset there is the easier the draglink is to bend).

 

[Fred_M1010]

because mine was attached at the same level as the tie rod, and it almost hit the springs. his is attached above the tie rod hole raising it that extra inch or so, putting it right into the spring.

Yeah, I guess it's tight on a 10b or dana 44 axle when I think about it.
I was thinking about my dana 60, I've got lots of clearance between the tie-rod and spring.
So on a 60 it would work, but then again on a 60 it's so easy and cheap to get
a steering arm so there's really no point in doing it that way.
Not to mention the tie-rod would get closer to the ground

 

[73redblaze]

Why not get the correct passenger arm for your front diff and do it right? Cut corners on body and paint...go for it. Want a cheap stereo? Cool. Cheap/scary steering? I gotta say something.

Rene

for the front diff? please explain. its not hitting the diff its hitting the springs.

 

[imiceman44]

for the front diff? please explain. its not hitting the diff its hitting the springs.

He's saying get the correct steering arm for a cross over for your front diff.
It will put the drag link above the spring and you wouldn't have this issue.

 

[73redblaze]

you mean why dont i link it to the knuckle?

 

[4X4HIGH]

you mean why dont i link it to the knuckle?

That's what he means but by using a crossover arm on the passenger side knuckle. This allows the draglink to hook from the pitman arm to the crossover steering arm ABOVE the springs. For a D44 or 10 bolt this would require you either to buy a flat top knuckle and have it machined for the steering arm OR buy an aftermarket knuckle that is already set-up for the crossover arm.

Steering and brakes are 2 things on a vehicle you DO NOT want to cheap out on.

 

[73redblaze]

yea i know most guys go off the knuckle. the whole diff thing threw me off, i didnt know if he was talking about the diff or the knuckle. the reason is about $400. i would need to get a flat top knuckle, pay someone $100 + to machine it, then buy diffrent rod ends when i already spent $280.00 on this ballistic fab set-up

 

[73redblaze]

That's what he means but by using a crossover arm on the passenger side knuckle.

he didnt say knuckle if you read his quote

Originally Posted by tRustyK5
Why not get the correct passenger arm for your front diff and do it right? Cut corners on body and paint...go for it. Want a cheap stereo? Cool. Cheap/scary steering? I gotta say something.



Rene

 

[4X4HIGH]

he didnt say knuckle if you read his quote

Originally Posted by tRustyK5
Why not get the correct passenger arm for your front diff and do it right? Cut corners on body and paint...go for it. Want a cheap stereo? Cool. Cheap/scary steering? I gotta say something.



Rene

I read what he said and he meant what I said.

Is this going to be a trail only rig? The reason I ask is because a Heim end wears out quickly and you wouldn't want to be running those if it's a DD or even a double duty rig unless you like spending lots of money on Heim ends.

 

[73redblaze]

gotcha i just didnt know if he actually ment diff. this would be new to me

 

[NorCal_Chris]

yea i know most guys go off the knuckle. the whole diff thing threw me off, i didnt know if he was talking about the diff or the knuckle. the reason is about $400. i would need to get a flat top knuckle, pay someone $100 + to machine it, then buy diffrent rod ends when i already spent $280.00 on this ballistic fab set-up

you can use your rod ends for crossover.

get the correct arm and knuckle milled, run your rod ends on the stock location for your tie rod, and just get the 7/8 or whatever hole drilled in the steering arm on the knuckle for your other rod end for the draglink.

 

[73redblaze]

yea its a trail only rig. i didnt think about runing my rod ends. but thats still like $300 in parts that i dont have. but that looks like what im going to have to do. they want around $75 bucks to bend that arm anyhow. now if i upgrade to a d60 are the dralinks and tierods the same length?

 

[NorCal_Chris]

yea its a trail only rig. i didnt think about runing my rod ends. but thats still like $300 in parts that i dont have. but that looks like what im going to have to do. they want around $75 bucks to bend that arm anyhow. now if i upgrade to a d60 are the dralinks and tierods the same length?

Shorter for a 60, so you can cut and reuse