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Draining coolant

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K5_Fla

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I want to do a good flush to radiator and get the junk inside the block too. Is this is the plug I need to take out to drain the block?

Anything special I need to know? Just drain out the radiator and remove this plug…. Run until everything is clean and fill back up with water/antifreeze?

396162604.jpg
 
Yes thats the plug.. best thing to do is take the thermostat housing off when ur done and fill the block through the thermostat hole in the intake to make sure the block isnt air locked
 
Don't just flush with water. thats a waste of time.

Theres a number of different products that you can do a "Flush" with. some are really good. what we use at work on gensets and some trucks. is a Penray product. Its basically a Sulfamic acid flush and a base conditioner after. works fantastic. You have to pull the Tstat. reseal the housing. fill the system with the acid charge. run up the engine to operating temp. drain it. fill the condistioner charge. run it up. drain it. then run water cycles up to temp until it drains clear. it could take anywhere from 6-12 water cycles to get it clear. just depends on who dirty it started out.
 
ok cool. what is a good flush product I can get at the regular parts store? Is that plug on the block the only plug I need to unscrew? ( Standard 350)
 
DEMON44 said:
Don't just flush with water. thats a waste of time.

Theres a number of different products that you can do a "Flush" with. some are really good. what we use at work on gensets and some trucks. is a Penray product. Its basically a Sulfamic acid flush and a base conditioner after. works fantastic. You have to pull the Tstat. reseal the housing. fill the system with the acid charge. run up the engine to operating temp. drain it. fill the condistioner charge. run it up. drain it. then run water cycles up to temp until it drains clear. it could take anywhere from 6-12 water cycles to get it clear. just depends on who dirty it started out.
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thats too much work for nothing imo .. just use water
 
it's all about muriatic acid.... you should see the flush gigs I do at work on the boats.... :eek1: :haha: you wouldn't believe the crud that comes out...

but even the watered down Prestone stuff at the parts store helps more than straight water...

you can also replace that plug with a petcock if you feel the need...

make sure you drain BOTH sides of the block....
 
so there is another drain on the other side of the block? I looked and didnt see anything... must be hidden around the starter... need to look again.
 
forward of the starter.. exact mirror'd spot as the side you found..
 
see below - this is what's on the opposite side of the block (same spot) - something for the starter...

396167906.jpg
 
nope knocker sensor.. unplug it by squeezing the sides where the raised section is, and pull... then just put a wrench to the hex portion...
 
no prob...

oh, don't be surprised if you spin them out and nothing comes out.. often sediment has em blocked... just poke the hole with a small screwdriver..
 
since I have to take out that knock sensor... should I go ahead and replace it with a new one? I assume it's the orginial... and the part is cheap? What exactly does the knock sensor do anyway?
 
If you're not running anything computer controlled on the motor, then no, you don't need the knock sensor.
 
My knock sensor is hooked up, but it does nothing since my blazer has no emisions and everything is mechanical. If I remember right Knock Sensors are not cheap.
 
you could put an npt plug in it... start it up and see if it throws a code... I'm guessing it's an ECM< controlled dizzy still.. assuming... if it throws a code it may be backing the timing off.. 3 degrees a clip iirc... that may be ECM era dependent tho...

but if somebody swapped in an HEI or something with the carb, your fine..

but if there is nothing visibly wrong with it, just put a little thread sealant on and reinstall... it ain't hurtin nuthin being there.. well, unless it is actually bad... :haha:
 
it was $32. I have a computer behind the glove box... which I guess was for the old TBI stuff.... but since I have a carb now nothing is "computer controled" correct ?
 
depends on if you have an ESC dizzy.. if it has vacuum advance on the side, you don't have ESC..... no worries...
 
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