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Drilled And Slotted Brake Rotors

ChickenRammit

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Does Anyone Run The Ported Brake Rotors? I'm Thinking Of Putting Them On My K3500. Ever Since I Put 35" Tire On The Truck, I've Had An Issue With The Rotors Getting Warped. They Say That The Ported Rotors Reduce Heat And I Just Want To Hear Everyone's Feedback On Whether Its Worth It Or Not.
 
It will be better than regular rotors but it will probably not solve your problem with warping rotors, they will just last longer (before warping).
 
you can warp a rotor by over torqueing it too, alot of tire shops with there across the border workers here in LA only know how to use a impact gun on full tilt. trust me i know, i checked the torque om my lugs after i had my tires mounted to see what they were at. took 185 to about 205 lbs torque on an aluminum rim :eek1: to remove the lugs! thats WAY to much torque. i wont be going to that shop ever again.
 
You should be OK as long as they arent some cheap $50 drilled/slotted rotors. They need to be designed for drilled/slotted or they can crack. A good D/S rotor can reduce temps by 200 degrees. Also get good pads to go with them. I use 13" drilled/slotted rotors on my 2000 Mustang GT I auto-x and road race.
 
rdn2blazer said:
you can warp a rotor by over torqueing it too, alot of tire shops with there across the border workers here in LA only know how to use a impact gun on full tilt.


DUDE, I KNOW WHAT YOU MEAN, I'VE HAD TO REPLACE THE STUDS A FEW TIMES FROM THEM CROSS THREADING MY LUG NUTS ON. THEY'LL JUST TURN THE IMPACT UP ALL THE WAY AND WHO CARES IF YOU EVER GET YOUR WHEEL BACK OFF.
 
maybe there is other issues that are causing the warping... i run the d/s on my sierra for towing, seen better pedal pressure, and better stoping.... how are your rear brakes set up? howa bout the porportioning valve? if to much stoping power on the front, they will warp...
 
if you have a true 3500 and it warps those rotors you have other problems. i ran 38" tires on mine and never warped one in 2 plus years.
 
when was the last time you changed your calipers. if the piston is not retracting far enough back after applying brakes the piston keeps the pad on the rotor while you are going down the road. this causes xtrem heat on the rotors and warps them it also wears the pads out prematurely. a lot of people don't understand that if you don't change your pads, calipers, hoses, and turn your rotors(or get new ones) you did not do a complete brake job. you could have a hose calapsing causing the pistons to stay engauged. i see this every day at my parts house i work in.
 
Everytime I Change My Brake Pads, I Get New Calipers As Well Because I Bought Loaded Calipers A Long Time Ago That Have A Lifetime Warranty. Every Time The Pads Are Bad, They Just Exchange The Calipers And Everything. So I Probably Change Them Probably Annually. The Truck Has A 14bolt Ff Rear End With Drum Brakes. I Really Want To Do A Disc Conversion For The Rear, But In The Meantime I'm Just Trying To Find Out If The Ported Rotors Have Been Helpful For Anyone. This Is My Tow Rig So That Has A Great Deal To Do With My Rotors Overheating. Can Anyone Recommend A Good Brand Of Rotors. I Imagine The Ones Offered At Autozone Are Crap.
 
i have had the best luck with gm pads and raybestos rotors, on my factory gm set on my sierrra, i got 45k before i changed the front, the back was about 20k, and i tow alot, my flatbed it probally connected may through sept about 5 days a week. the pads wernt gone yet, about 1/8 life left before the indicator, only changed becaus i wasnt uncomfortable with the pedal feel.
 
If you are going to use anything other than stock, use slotted, not drilled. The drilled will get cracks over time.
 
ya second on the raybestos rotors. or old stock gm if you find them. the autozone stuff is in the crapper thes days. i wouldnt buy a thing from them now.
 
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