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drilling and rotating the pumpkin

O

obijuan

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apparently close isnt close enough on the pinion angle and ive already got the ubolts torqued and im running blocks and i got a new driveshaft basically. i dont want to tear this shaft up like im assuming i did the other one.
my pinion is angled 8* different than the TC so i need to point the pinion up towards it a little more, witout new pads or ubolts. spent all my money on a driveshaft:crazy:
whats the proper procedure for drilling out the welds and pointing the pinion up? whats a reasonable angle for my CV shaft? exaclty zero or do i account for wrap? i tried to search for soemthing like this but i guess my terms were wrong, not many results. i have no problem getting a few new drill bits cause i figure it would need alot. how deep can i go before im in the tubes? sorry for all the questions but i have got to get this taken care of. thanks in advance yall.
 
dude.... no, dont do it... its a bad idea. Im not saying it cant be done, but damn thats a little drastic. What size lift do you have on it, and is this the front axle?
gabe
 
You should be able to get a degree shim in there without needing new bolts. I would definitly account for wrap since you are running blocks. 1-2* should be enough, to account for the wrap. However each rig is a little different and it may take you a few tries with different shims to get it perfect. Ideally with a cv shart you want it the pinion pointing directly at the back of the t-case.
 
did you lower the transfer case

if so and you are still having problems then I recommend the following...

Homeade shackle flip... I did it for a while and wheeled the piss out of it
just do a search for it

that will get you about 4 inches lift. Next is to correct your pinion angle... after the flip is done buy some new spring perches and cut off the old ones... if you are running a 6 inch lift I would get some with about and inch to two inch lift made into them... bolt the axle to the springs with the perches inbetween and make some measurements.... tack them in place then lower the truck down and see what the pinion angle is like...

reasons to do this are more flex and better rear pinion angle... the shackle flip will help with the angle and may very well take care of it all togeather... you could also just do a shackle flip and add a 2" lift block with the correct angle... just another thought

gabe
 
If it's the rear axle cut the perches off, rotate the housing to where the pinion is pointing down about a degree to a degree and a half and weld the perches back on.

You can buy new perches for under $50.00 a pair from anyone, but if your really feeling cheap then be careful cutting the old perches off so you can reuse them.

DO NOT even try to rotate the tubes inside of the center section you'll only waste a lot of time and destroy a perfectly good housing.
 
ok guys, thanks. seems ill do it the right way and go shackle flip and a 2 inch block. that seems the best thing to do cause i have always wanted one anyways!
 
xtrmjoe said:
You should be able to get a degree shim in there without needing new bolts. I would definitly account for wrap since you are running blocks. 1-2* should be enough, to account for the wrap. However each rig is a little different and it may take you a few tries with different shims to get it perfect. Ideally with a cv shart you want it the pinion pointing directly at the back of the t-case.
Click to expand...

Wrong... Ublots are torque to yeild, 1 use only...

You could very well have the block in backwards, most are tapered. Best way to do it is to cut and rotate the perches.
 
Holy crap, I better go replace the ubolts I have re used 15 times with no failures or problems.
 
Wrong... Ublots are torque to yeild, 1 use only...
Click to expand...

that's what i've always heard, but i've seen a few sets resused without issue. one was on an 82 camaro, another on a 92 c1500. both were mostly street, but the camaro did see some track time and the pickup got some offroad use (even though it was 2wd).

i'll be installing a used 4" lift on mine before too long and i plan to reuse the rears, at least short-term. the fronts were on a '74 d44, and don't fit on my 10blt. 2.75" vs 3" tube, i think.
 
Do the shackle flip and replace the perches......

But if there is any way to avoid tall perches or blocks avoid them. they are the primary cause of axle wrap......Everyone has wrap to a point but the farther removed the axle is from the springs the worse it gets.....

BTW, you will never be able turn the pumkin, they are installed into the tubes with negative clearance and require a 400-600 press to get them in there, my guess is they aren't making hammers big enough to turn them.....
 
x2 on rewelding the perches
x2 on shims
x2 on shackle flip

The blocks you have now are not angled? And if they are make sure they are'nt backwards or anything. The 4" ones I have are angled and my angle is perfect
 
New perches are available from the local chrysler dealer for 18.00 a pair. Even though they are a chrysler part the will fit your axle and springs perfectly. 3 inches wide, is the ones I got, plus instock all the time!
 
yeah the blocks are in properly, on my previous setup (3.08 axles) the perches were moved and the block was added. so theres not enough angle in the blocks alone, not sure of the brand but i would bet on procomp...
i have decided to get a 4in shackle flip but am debating on getting a block or a spring.
 
8_YOUR_H2 said:
Holy crap, I better go replace the ubolts I have re used 15 times with no failures or problems.
Click to expand...

Just cause youve done it doesnt make it right. It also doesnt mean that because youve done it you should suggest it to someone else... You may take the risk on your rig, but dont take it on someone elses...
 
79k20350 said:
Wrong... Ublots are torque to yeild, 1 use only...
Click to expand...


there not torque to yeild and do not have to be replaced every time, where i work we have a truck that we put 3 axles in a day for a test sample of axles from production and they only replace the ubolts about one time a week not every axle
 
1979jimmy350 said:
there not torque to yeild and do not have to be replaced every time, where i work we have a truck that we put 3 axles in a day for a test sample of axles from production and they only replace the ubolts about one time a week not every axle
Click to expand...

U bolts strectch, period, end of disscussion... If there changing axles 3 time a day theres prolly good reason there not replacing them every time...

Theres enough info on this site about it... Im not getting into it again...
 
79k20350 said:
U bolts strectch, period, end of disscussion... If there changing axles 3 time a day theres prolly good reason there not replacing them every time...

Theres enough info on this site about it... Im not getting into it again...
Click to expand...


yes the bolts will streach but the question is are they only streaching in the elastic region if that is the case they are fine to reuse because they will go back to the normal length now if they streach into the plastic region then they have undergone a perment change
 
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