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drilling and tapping the frame

surpip

surpip

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is the frame think enoughto drill and tap, im talking about the bottom part of the frame. I want to put a skit plate over my tank, and the easyest way would be able drill and tap holes in the frame, so i dont ahve to take the tank out to get a nut on the back of the frame
 
yes it is. why drill and tap, just drill a hole and then use a TEK, self tapping screw. or even a Kaylon would be better and quicker then drilling and tapping each hole.
 
well i have access to any tap i need, all the drills i need and i want it to be strong, prety hefty skid plate fot the tank. It just dosent look very thick, not shure how many threads i would get /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
It is probably too thin--the frame is only about 3/16 thick,that means only one or two threads--not enough for a heavy plate that will get bashed.You could use Nut-Serts,they are like a pop rivet with a threaded internal sleeve,or use those "clip nuts"like on the fenders,only larger diameter,like 1/2 inch-- you could make the skid plate overlap the bottom rails of the frame and bolt another peice of flat stock to it that goes above the bottom rail to "sandwich"it,or make supports that bolt to the sides of the frame,where there are holes already(personally I hate drilling any holes or cutting anything out of a frame--its usually weak enough already!). /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif
 
I dont think the threads would last... there wouldn't be to many to hold it tight, one hard knock and it could strip /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif.
 
Off the top of my head, I don't know how thick the frame is, (maybe between 1/8 to 3/16). What size threads are you going for? The smaller the bolt diameter, the more threads you can make in the frame. If you went with a 3/8 bolt, you probably won't get more than two or three threads.
 
how bout weld some 1/8 flat stock to the bottom of the frame and drill through that?
 
im thinking 3/8 bolts or what ever i can get for free from boeing /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
just drill a hole in the frame and weld a nut on top. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
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how bout weld some 1/8 flat stock to the bottom of the frame and drill through that?

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That might work, but watch the heat around the gas tank /forums/images/graemlins/eek.gif
 
Yes it's thick enough to drill and tap. No the threads won't hold up to abuse. They use fairly good sized self tappers on the brake and fuel line holders.

I think the idea of using the e-nuts or whatever they are called (the spring steel ones that clip over flat pieces of metal with the nut on one side) is a good idea, as long as you aren't in the rust belt.

I've got my factory skid plate off, but I can't recall how it's held in place, and I'm not there to look. I would speculate that since it was an option, all the frames (are we talking Blazer?) are setup for them.

In any case, if this is a Blazer, I'd use a factory skid plate and save myself a lot of work. You can pull the factory plate without removing the tank or the hitch.
 
well i already have the factory one, but i think its junk, the PO of my 73 made one ouy of sheet steel and it looks alot stronger, so id like to use that one, jsut looking at the eaisest way to mount it. on the 73 he put square pices of 1/4" steel that were tapped and fit tight to the frame acting as a back nut, but i dont think i have enough space between the frame and tank to put some of those in /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I'm curious though, how thick a skid plate on the tank would have to be to actually support the vehicle. If anything, I suspect the stock ones were present to prevent the tank from being punctured, but as you I'm sure noticed, there is no way that thing will prevent the tank from getting damaged if you land on it.

But, I would think, with the vehicles weighing what they do, a plate that could support the vehicle, as wide and long as it has to be to cover the tank, would need to be very thick to do much more than the stock one, or be designed with reinforcements across the span.
 
ya thats true, but ill be dooing alot of rocks so i think any improvement is good /forums/images/graemlins/dunno.gif
 
I'm sure it's been dealt with by other rock crawlers, first hand knowledge will be the best to follow.
 
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is the frame think enoughto drill and tap, im talking about the bottom part of the frame. I want to put a skit plate over my tank, and the easyest way would be able drill and tap holes in the frame, so i dont ahve to take the tank out to get a nut on the back of the frame

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My 1991 GM Factory Service manual says the only time that you should ever drill out the flanges is when repairing a crack.
Other than that, they even have a dimension for how close to the flange you can go on the vertical portion of the frame.
Needless to say, I have some eye-bolts on my 88 S10 /forums/images/graemlins/ignore.gif that break this rule.......................................
Take it with a grain of salt... /forums/images/graemlins/grind.gif /forums/images/graemlins/weld.gif /forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif
 
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thtas a good idea but i would have to drop the tank and i dont want to

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Just go muddin. No rocks. Remember what the doctor told you about those kidney stones?































































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