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drive shaft & doubler ?

sweetk30

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short and simple doubler kit and drive shaft ?

you have option for both 1350 or 1410 rear what would you pic ?

no crazy lift or massive tires . but locked front and g-80 that works good rear .
 
1350 has had an excellent service life in my blazer. Can hold up to alot of stress and severe use without fuss. I love mine.
 
I would think 1350 would be just fine. You won't be making crazy torque with the L31 and the rotating mass of small(er) tires won't put a bunch of stress on everything. .
 
just what i said above . if it was c/v i would have said . thanks for asking tho .

Well ok then...

If you're buying parts then go 1410, I mean why not? For my truck I couldn't see spending 3/4 of the money and still have basically stock size parts. Then again, why a g80? If the answer is "because it works good" then just stick with the stock 1310 & 1350 yokes.
 
I use a CV 1350 rear and for the front a 32 spline conversion with 1410' square drive shaft

Screenshot_20180904-191753.png
 
I have a 1410 rear in my K5. Its sweet, super beef. Tom woods built it, didn't really cost much extra. My AAM rear axle came with a 1410 yoke, its what GM used on the 2002 6.0 work truck I pulled it from. I figured why put a smaller joint on my axle when I can put a bigger joint on the 205 and match. It seems to have a huge operating angle too.
 
I'm a big fan of the 1410. But a 1350 would likely be fine and much more common.

The 1410 is big enough to hit stuff, but the extra angle capacity is nice to have.

If you are good with the 1350s angle capacity then do that. Plenty strong and u bolts yokes are very common. 1410 the strap style yokes are the most prevelant
 
short and simple doubler kit and drive shaft ?

you have option for both 1350 or 1410 rear what would you pic ?

no crazy lift or massive tires . but locked front and g-80 that works good rear .
In your case I don't see a reason for 1410.
The only advantage is the angle it can take.
You don't have the range that needs it in your setup.
1350 is what you need and it's more common so easier to replace if needed
 
A 1410 u joints is going to be available any any parts house anywhere. So it's no less common. Not to mention with all the 3/4tons running around these days that use 1410s.

I personally would rather have a driveshaft with two 1410s on it than three 1350s . A CV is a pita to rebuild in a sjop, let alone on the side of the trail.
 
A 1410 u joints is going to be available any any parts house anywhere. So it's no less common. Not to mention with all the 3/4tons running around these days that use 1410s.

I personally would rather have a driveshaft with two 1410s on it than three 1350s . A CV is a pita to rebuild in a sjop, let alone on the side of the trail.
He would only need 2.
No cv needed.
I am pretty sure it will not be a rock crawler and with smaller tires and tiny lift angles are within the range.
 
@nvrenuf sorry if i come across mad . just had a lot on my mind is all . thanks for clarifying with your question .

and thanks all for the input .

i have a good 1350 that needs longer tube . and buy 1350 yoke for t-case .

i have a smoking deal on a new spicer 1410 slip and yoke just need tube . i have a new 1410 14ff yoke and just need to buy a 1410 for the t-case .

so i guess its up in the air .
 
i just remembered the idea behind this truck . budget beater . use what i got on hand even from trucks not done yet .

my 1 truck has brand new shafts and i think a 1350 yoke on the 205 . its not even in the line up yet to be finished . and its going from 6" lift to 8" or 9" lift so they would need rework anyways .

guess its time to dig them out and see if i can use them . :thinking:
 

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