drive shaft idea's - help

[sweetk30]

got a good one for ya guys .

tcase rear yoke @ 0*/90* to ground.

rear pinion currently rotated up to 15*

rear shaft angle on tube close to 26* slope.

rear shaft yoke to yoke length is 49 3/4" long.

currently has 1410 shaft and as you can guess it vibrates.

setup is long bed 131.5 w/b truck with divorced 205 directly under seat rear yoke is just under rear crossmember/cab mount location. truck has 12" superlift and extra 4-5" custom lift added and 3" body lift . its on 44" tires.

I called the man jesse @ h.a.d and he told me 4 options.

#1 - 42* c/v head shaft NO ROAD USE ! maybe tiny round town stuff but def no highway !!!

#2 - twin c/v head shaft with carrier bearing at some point and no real super strong warrenty as the angles suck !

#3 - 1350 c/v and 1410 at axle only AFTER 4" of lift removed to make it a lot better and still be close to max angles.


I think I need to talk this guy in to droping 4" of lift from the truck my self but what do you guys think ? I know we don't normaly play with this stuff around here but figure I give it a shot .

 

[blazinzuk]

Can you rotate the 205 some? I realize doing anything with the t case might mess up front drive lines though. So my only thought for what would work is 1410s on both ends and get them exactly opposite. I don't know if thats even possible but I do know you will have to modify both yokes heavily. No normal cv shaft is gonna work with those angles

 

[sweetk30]

205 is fixed . and rotate wouldn't do anything in the rear .

also like I said its got 1410 joints now.

I know it is what it is . just trying to save him some coin and get best bang for the buck .

 

[cybrfire]

Clock the tcase flat and the drop the whole works as it is divorced. Give the other shaft some of the angle.

Then dump 4" of lift.

Actually, reverse the two. 4" of lift (or more) then clock tcase and drop.

 

[Fordum]

There is actually a cure for this that lets him keep his lift and results in long joint life.
But where the heck you would get the parts, I have no idea.

Cut off the spring mounts, and rotate the axles until the yokes are facing straight up. Mount a pair of 1:1 right angle gearboxes directly over the axle inputs with the input to them towards the 205.

Run shafts from the 205 to the two gearboxes, then shafts from the gear boxes down to the inputs on the axles with a long slip yoke.

Should not be any vibration to speak of, since all the shafts are straight with little or no angle.
Saw that setup on a swamp buggy a long time ago. Don't know where you would find gearboxes like that though.

I suppose a rear end with a spool and one axle shaft tube cut off and welded up would work.

 

[blazinzuk]

There is actually a cure for this that lets him keep his lift and results in long joint life.
But where the heck you would get the parts, I have no idea.

Cut off the spring mounts, and rotate the axles until the yokes are facing straight up. Mount a pair of 1:1 right angle gearboxes directly over the axle inputs with the input to them towards the 205.

Run shafts from the 205 to the two gearboxes, then shafts from the gear boxes down to the inputs on the axles with a long slip yoke.

Should not be any vibration to speak of, since all the shafts are straight with little or no angle.
Saw that setup on a swamp buggy a long time ago. Don't know where you would find gearboxes like that though.

I suppose a rear end with a spool and one axle shaft tube cut off and welded up would work.

Way easier than that is a chain drop where you put a chain drive on the output of the 205 and another below it and run the driveway to that.

What i meant is dropping the whole case, I see its already clocked down.

Guy has to realize its just not gonna work unless you take some angle out anywhere.

Ever read about using Dana 60 shaft parts for a driveshaft that might help some