Drive shaft loops

[MuddinManny]

Hey Y'all,

I did a search and found nothing. I'm interested in installing drive shaft protection loops incase a u-joint happens to let go. I will be running HAD's 1 Tons' and I'd like to have a loop in the rear, and the front if possible. Does anyone have any experience with these? Where do you get them from? Whom do you recommend? I just want to take this extra precaution with the HP that's coming from my 383.

Thanks!

Manny

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

More than likely you will have to fab some up, and what u-joints are you running 1350s?

 

[MuddinManny]

More than likely you will have to fab some up, and what u-joints are you running 1350s?

Hey Iwax,

Well, I have to contact Jesse and discuss the building of the shafts yet. I have 1410 yokes on the pinion's right now. They are from Jesse as well. So I'm guessing that I'll be running SPL 55-3X's again, just like the D60 axle shafts. I don't know. How do you go about fabbing these up? Do you have to account for axle droop? I'm trying to picture it, but am having difficulties with it.

Thanks!

Manny

 

[iwaxmyjimmy]

Try and find some monster truck pictures. What are your yokes at the tcase? If they are 1410s I wouldn't worry about driveshaft loops. Since most of your wheeling will be in mud your tires aren't gonna catch traction and snap a u-joint. When accounting for droop this would be the ideal set up:

maybe this:

this just catches the axle end:

 

[k20]

why not just run a chain under it? I would think that would work. Just have to come up w/ a way to keep it from 'bouncing' up and getting caught in the u-joint. Maybe weld the lower links all together.

 

[Jishory]

Use a long limit strap

 

[goldwing2000]

When accounting for droop this would be the ideal set up:

It's a Forrest Gump leg brace! Run, Forrest! Run!

But seriously, I can't imagine one of Jesse's shafts would break behind just a 383, especially with 1410 joints...

But if you insist, I wouldn't worry about a loop in the rear. If the rear breaks, it'll just drop down and drag. If the front breaks and hangs up, it'll pole-vault you. Or at least it will ruin the shaft

 

[85mudbogger]

acctually the front shaft can also take out your trans pan and whip around and hit your exhaust and everything in your way. it happened to my in my dads truck, my gf broke my truck by going from drive to reverse in powder puff class so after the race i was drive the 72 chevy with the 427 bbc with about 600 hp and as soon as i left the line the front ujoint let go. all in all it wasnt pretty. it now has loops. your truck is tall enough that you shouldnt need close clearance so just take some sheet metal and cut some strips and make it into an oval and then some brace to the frame and bolt it in only need one on the front, as for the rear dont worry about it unless you have a bolt in shaft but if its a slip yoke like a 208 if it breaks it wont do much and you can just slide it out thats my 2 cents. the sheet metel will get damaged if it gets smaked but you can just bend it right back to shape but if you want it to look good then do the forest gump way just like a monster truck. little over kill though for a mud truck

 

[big83chevy4x4]

actually the front shaft can also take out your trans pan and whip around and hit your exhaust and everything in your way.

i had the front ujoint on the front shaft let loose and put a hole in the oil pan, ended up killing the motor.

where i pull, the class that im running this year requires driveshaft loops and/or ujoint shields. what im gonna do is built brackets that encases the ujoint (kinda like a guardsman but all the way around) so if a ujoint were to fail, the shaft cannot fall straight out. there is no loop around the middle, so you don't have to acount for drop.

 

[DaPlumber]

Monster trucks 101

 

[lurtch-k20-(78-90)]

Hey Manny

Manny,

What I am planning on doing is running an antirap bar from the axil to the frame following the same plane as the drive line, and having the shackle even with the output of the 205, using 6 or 8 inch (IDK the clearances of the soon to be build drivelines) .375 wall pipe cutting about 1.5" wide then cutting in half, with 2 4" bandade strips of the same material, and 8 3/8's bolts to hold it together. welding the "hoops" with the driveline centered to the so mentioned antirap bar about 8" from the yokes to allow for mant. as for the front I havn't met that mental hurdal yet, but probibly along the same idea.